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Subject Topic: ford radio pinout 19b132 14a459? (Topic Closed Topic Closed)

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kogaku
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Joined: Novemberá19, 2007
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Posted: Novemberá19, 2007 at 9:50 AM - IP Logged  

I am trying to find out the pinout for a Ford cassette/radio - the label says "E9DF-19B132-AA" (there is an "88-" in a box tot he far left on the label).

The connector says "E6DF-14A459-C" -- it is a rectangular plastic block on the right-rear of the radio, with 15 flat pins -- 7 pins on the side facing the middle of the radio, and 8 pins on the side by the edge of the radio.

I've spent the morning goggling my fingers out, and there just ain't much that I've been able to find out. As best as I can tell, from what scant info I've turned up, this is a somewhat older unit (early '90s at best), and has "common ground" speaker connections. I've found diagrams for a newer unit, with a similar connector, but with two sets of 8 pins, and the wiring is clearly NOT compatible with this one (i.e., the pin in the position that's empty on this radio is NOT a "n.c." pin on the 8/8 type radios).

I popped the two lids on the radio and looked at the PCB. There are some silkscreened bits by the ribbon that runs to the connector block. I am pretty sure I can make out the four speaker lines, and the antenna motor line, but that's about it.

I guess I could spend some time with a VOM and trace the main power line (from the power switch, which *seems* to be a traditional (mechanical rather than "soft-touch") switch, and I could probably manage the same with the display lamp, but that'd still leave me without any power going to the memory line, which wouldn't be real good.

This was a two-dollar special at the Goodwill, which I plan on making into a "redneck boombox" (something with fairly decent sound that I can haul out to the barn and the field, fairly cheap, rugged, and with decent enough sound for that environment).

Does anyone know the pinouts for those two connectors (the 7 pin and the 8 pin)?

If all else fails, does anyone know if the world will end if I *bypass* the connector? I can see that there is a small PCB under the pins, with some components soldered to it -- unless I desolder the 15 pins and removed the littlel PCB I won't know what's going on there.  I am guessing that it's probably something to allow them to use the same radio with different vehicles, or, perhaps with different feature sets (i.e., rigged to shut down the internal power amps to use with an external booster amp), by putting a different plug-block on the radio when they build it.

(I read that some of the newer radios have jumpers that accomplish that kind of thing, I don't know if any of it is a factor with this older job. I *do* know that it's got two power-amp IC-modules on a heat sink, so I presume it *should* be able to drive a pair of speakers.)

Sorry if I am coming off like a complete nimrod here. :)  I'm a former camera repair tech, so I can sling a soldering pencil and so forth.  I've been out of that trade for some time now, I'm halfway through disability, health is shot, can't do fine work anymore, but something like this wouldn't be much of a challenge presuming I can know which pins are which.  I really don't want to do a bunch of work on it, and then let all the smoke out the first time I turn it on.

I know it's not much of a radio, but for my purposes it'll be OK, if I can get it working.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions/ideas.

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i am an idiot
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Posted: Novemberá19, 2007 at 8:54 PM - IP Logged  

The row of 7 pins are the power  and ground connectors.  From the top of the radio, pins 1 and 3 need to be powered.   Ground the chassis of the radio, and it should come on at this point.   I do not remember which one is constant or switched you will have to figure that out.

The row of 8 pins are the speaker wires. From the top they are + then -    + then -  so on and so forth.  I have no idea which pair of wires are for what speakers.

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kogaku
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Posted: Novemberá19, 2007 at 9:52 PM - IP Logged  

Thanks!
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kogaku
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Posted: Novemberá19, 2007 at 11:09 PM - IP Logged  

OK, here's what I've got so far (based on your tips, plus the silk-screened legends on the PCB, plus my VOM):

On the left:

==================================================

1 = MEM (That's what it says on the PCB, I presume this is tuner/channel memory power)

2 = N/C (unless I'm really missing something obvious)

3 = Power (+) (goes to main power switch on volume control)

4 = ??? (looks like it's marked "6" or "S" on the PCB -- see below)

5 = "LCD" (marked "LCD" on the PCB, is actually the incandescent bulb that illuminates the LCD; the bulb is burned out, I'll replace it with an LED)

6 = Ground

7 = Antenna (marked "ANT" on the PCB, presumably it's power for a motoized antenna)

--------------------------------------------------

Regarding pin 4 -- I have no idea what this is -- I get about 20 ohms from this pin to ground, regardless of VOM polarity, and regardless of power switch position.  I get about 30 ohms OR about 100 ohms between it (pin 4) and the power line (pin 3) depending on VOM lead polarity (with power switch in ON position). There is something silkscreened on the PCB, very hard to see, it looks like a "6" or "S".

Does anyone have any idea of what pin 4's purpose is?

==================================================

Now, on to the other row of pins, on the right side (the four speakers):

==================================================

1 = LF

2 = Ground

3 = LR

4 = Ground

5 = RF

6 = Ground

7 = RR

8 = Ground

==================================================

Maybe this info will be of use to someone else. For some odd reason it doesn't seem to be available anywhere online (other than via asking in a forum)

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kogaku
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Posted: Novemberá21, 2007 at 8:34 AM - IP Logged  

One more question -- there are two blue trimpots behind holes in the lower right side of the radio (below the paper label).

Does anyone know their purpose?

It will be a couple of days before I'm able to give this thing the smoke test, but I'm confident that it'll work OK (presuming it's not pre-smoked :)  I've decided not to worry about the unknown pin 4, I figure it's either something for testing purposes, or some purpose I won't need to worry about. (If I have ID'd all the speakers, power, lamp, and memory, what else *do* I need to know? Nothing, so far as I can figure.)

But, if those trimpots are something I may need to know about, well, I'd like to know about 'em. :)  (My guess is that they are *possibly* counterparts to the old antenna-match trimcap found on older AM car radios, back in the day -- maybe one for AM and one for FM -- but, I am loath to start twiddling them without knowing what they are.)

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kogaku
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Posted: Novemberá22, 2007 at 1:24 PM - IP Logged  

Eureka, and stuff like that! :)

It works!

AM, FM, and the cassette player all work great!

Here's what I did:

First, I strapped the (neg) power and "MEM" pins together, so that tuner memory will always be powered-on.

Then, I replaced the burned-out incandescent LCD bulb with a tiny 12V white LED array (4 LEDs -- lensless, so nice broad output beam -- a 4-diode bridge chip (so that the thing doesn't care about polarity) and two resistors (to drop the current to the appropriate level when using 12VDC input) -- this thing was designed for a tail-light, I believe).

Next, I strapped the "LCD" pin to the "ANT" pin (antenna-motor power), so that the LCD will be lit up when the radio is turned on.

Finally, I strapped the LF and LR pins together, with a single "L" wire coming off the back of the radio, and did the same thing for the "R" speaker lines. The Front/Rear fader is now inoperative -- no matter where it's positioned, full output goes to the two speakers connected to the radio.

I still don't know the purpose of the mysterious Pin 4, or the two blue trimpots. If anyone has any ideas on these, please let me know, thanks in advance. (I've googled extensively to no avail. Maybe I'm just not using the right search terms, but I've tried everything I could think of.)

Thanks sent up to "i am an idiot" who clearly isn't :)  He gave me the confidence to keep plugging away with this sucker. For two dollars, I don't think you can get a better knockaround/lugabout/dragaround/haul-with-you farm radio.

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i am an idiot
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Posted: Novemberá22, 2007 at 2:43 PM - IP Logged  

Glad you got it working, sorry I forgot about the 5th pin down to illuminate the display.   No idea what the 4th pin is.  FYI, on newer radios bypassing the fader the way you did is not advisable.  It is fine on that dinosaur you have but do not try it on a newer radio,  it WILL burn up the output chip.  Chances are the trimmer pots you are talking about are for the alignment of the tuner.  If the tuner is working do not mess with them.
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kogaku
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Posted: Novemberá22, 2007 at 3:09 PM - IP Logged  

Thanks for the reply.

I knew it was a bit of a gamble jumpering the outputs, but I gave it the ol' hairy eyeball (with the hood up), determined that the fader was a real signal-level pot (rather than a rheostat/L-Pad/T-Pad in the speaker line), and, that they seemed to be using a pair of stereo output modules (separate output for each speaker, four real output stages, based on cursory visual tracing of the speaker output lines and the pair of modules), but, on the other hand, they had the common ground lines, so I crossed my fingers and hoped for the best.  No smoke! :)

The radio seems to be working OK, so I guess I won't fart with the trimpots. I was thinking (hoping?) they were antenna trimmers (which are fairly harmless at worst, and very beneficial at best), but it'd be odd for antenna trimmers to NOT be trimCAPs. I suppose they could have used "trim-varicaps" that were biased by trimpots, but I can't see them spending those extra pennies. So I guess that leaves something along the lines of local oscillator trim, which I really *don't* want to fart with.

I'd still like to find out some day what that mysterious pin #4 is, though!

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