2007 dodge ram 1500 compustar

hi all, i am new to this but have been reading other threads for other problems ive had with other cars, anyways i have a 2007 dodge ram 1500 with compustar remote start/alarm with the cm3000 brain and idatalink bypass. this was my very first install with a remote start/alarm and i installed it the other day and i have the alarm part working perfectly fine but no remote start. you hold the button and it comes on like it wants to start but it just isn't cranking over. so i checked to see if there is power from the start wire coming from the brain and there is. i do realize that the dodge chrysler vehicles are more complex than a honda or toyota but i am an auto technician and know my way around cars for sure. so if anyone knows what i could have possibly done wrong or not a wire hooked up? and help would be very much appreciated

Need more info to assist.

Which iDatalink module did you use?  What firmware and version is flashed on to module?

Did you use the ADS HRN CH5 harness?  I think, with the CM3000, you had to go W2W.  Did you set the modules install mode and lock it in?  Did the module program to the vehicle as per the install guide?

The iDatalink bypass modules makes this install fairly easy.  While there are some differences

( in vehicle wire locations and the lack of a Starter wire on the 2007 ), this pictorial might help :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~130085~PN~1

Soldering is fun!

the bypass is the ads al-ca. i didn't flash anything on it cause it didn't say to. i did not use that harness because the cm3000 brain does not have a plug in for any harnesses. it is an older model so that's why i got it for cheap because they don't make this one anymore. i would have used that method for sure though if it had a plug in because that's just way easier. i programmed the bypass in the hardwire mode and it has learned my truck. i followed the programing procedure exactly and it worked. like i said before the alarm and keyless entry work just no start

There should be a white sticker on the bottom of the inner white box the ADS AL-CA came in that

tells you which firmware / version was loaded at the factory and which install guide to use.  Hopefully it is ADS AL(DL) CH5.  If it isn't CH5 then it won't work on your truck until it's re-flashed with the correct firmware.  There are different versions on CH5, so if yours is anolder unit, use the install guide listed, not the current one found on the WEB site.

As shown in the pictorial, I prefer to go W2W and make all the necessary connections listed in

the Type 3 install diagram.  Also note this warning in the install guide :          WARNING:        DO NOT CONNECT        ANY OTHER ACCESSORY,        IGNITION OR START WIRE        FROM THE REMOTE STARTER        TO THE VEHICLE

Soldering is fun!

OK THAT WHITE BOX IS AT HOME AND IM AT WORK RIGHT NOW SO ILL CHECK THAT LATER BUT THAT LAST COMMENT THERE: DO NOT CONNECT         ANY OTHER ACCESSORY,         IGNITION OR START WIRE         FROM THE REMOTE STARTER         TO THE VEHICLE WHAT I DONT GET IS THAT THE STARTER WIRE IS ALREADY PRE-WIRED TO A STARTER KILL-RELAY WITH TWO WIRES COMING OUT OF IT SO I DONT KNOW WHICH WIRE TO HOOK UP WITH THE BYPASS. I DID HOOK UP ALL THOSE WIRES TO THE TRUCK ANYWAYS AND WHEN I DISCONNECT THEM THE TRUCK GETS NO SIGNAL AT ALL FOR THE REMOTE START LIKE NOTHING HAPPENS AT ALL. SINCE THE BYPASS HAS NO ACCESSORY WIRE DO I JUST CUT THE WIRE OFF THE BRAIN? I AM FOLLOWING WHAT DO TO ON THE TYPE 3 INSTALL GUIDE AND THE TACH WIRE ISNT WORKING SO I JUST CONNECTED IT UNDER THE HOOD AND THAT WORKS. THE GUIDE SAYS I NEED A DIODE IN THE CONNECTION WITH IGNITION WIRES FROM THE BYPASS TO THE BRAIN WHICH IVE DONE. IS THERE ANY SPECIFIC AMPERAGE RATING I SHOULD BE USING? RIGHT NOW ITS A 6 AMP RECTIFIER DIODE

Remember that the Compustar CM3000 is a generic aftermarket component that is designed to be

flexible enough to work with a wide variety of vehicles.  The included, pre-wired, Starter Kill relay is a nice feature but might not be applicable to all vehicles.  ( As an example, newer GMvehicles don't even have a Starter wire at the ignition switch.  To crank the starter, they monitor the ignition and accessory wires and send a start signal when they see the Accessory wiredrop while the the ignition wire stays at +12V.)  With your truck, you won't be able to use thatStarter Kill feature without some serious engine compartment wiring.  Following the iDatalink CH5install guide, you will connect the CM3000 Starter wire ( without relay, just cut it off ) directly to the bypass module.  The iDatalink will initiate the vehicles start sequence when it sees GWR andthe CM3000's Starter output via its MUX and CAN Bus connections to the truck.

Yes, there is no need for the CM3000 Accessory wire.  The ignition wire diode ( if you blow up the

diagram ) is shown as a 1N4001, but any 1N400x diode will work.  ( Think I've even used a 3 Amp diodeat times ).

It's possible that the iDatalinks' Tach output isn't working because it has the wrong firmware loaded

on it, but going directly to the engine is fine.

Soldering is fun!

Did you set the brain for automatic transmission instead of manual trans?

Yes I did set it for auto trans but cutting the green loop And kreg I did exactly what you said with all the connections and it worked!!.....only for like 3 seconds though. As soon as the trucks starts up, it shuts down. And now my keyless entry isn't working. The truck will arm and disarm but the doors will not lock or unlock and I didn't even touch those wires. So I don't know what happened

If the red LED is flashing when you remote start the truck, then the sentry immobilizer is not being bypassed properly. As well, did you program the tach wire to the remote starter ?Jeff

Velocity Custom Home Theater

Mobile Audio/Video Specialist

Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I will check to see if the red light is on then and yes I did program the tach wire to the engine because the bypass tach wire isn't workinh