viper 5704 in toyota 2007 4runner sr5 v8

First time installer of a Viper 5704 with PKALL and remote start in a Toyota 4runner 4wd V8 SR5. I have tried to piece together as much information as possible that I can gather online and via available instruction manuals.   But, I have a fair number of uncertainties on this installation still.   I need some help. I have question marks (many) next to wires where I need some confirmation.   Thank you in advance! Vehicle: 2007 Toyota 4runner 4wd V8 SR5 System: Viper 5704 with RS and PKALL A) Main Harness, 6 pin connector Wire 5704 Color     4Runner color 4Runner Location ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- H1/1 Red WHITE/ Blue Ignition Switch Harness H1/2 Black Ground   Chassis ground H1/3 Brown N/a   Siren (red wire) ??H1/4       WHITE/ Brown     Not used ??H1/5       White Green (+) Dash fuse box (White, 16 pin plug (F) Pin 13      Viper jumper/fuse set to (+) ??H1/6 Orange Not used, what is this for? B) Door Lock, 3-pin Wire 5704 4Runner color 4Runner Location ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ??1 Blue Green (-) Drivers kick panel (White, 18 pin Plug) Pin 8      This is the factory alarm/disarm wire. I believe I can use this instead of the power unlock/lock wires (however, my car did not come with factory alarm so I am uncertain) 2 Not used ??3 Green Green (-) Drivers kick panel (White, 18 pin Plug) Pin 8      This is still the same factory alarm/disarm wire. So do the signals from Viper via wires 1 and 3 just toggle the factory master lock/unlock? Both 1 and 3 connect to this same Green (-) wire?         C) Auxillary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin Wire 5704 4Runner color 4Runner Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ??H2/1 Pink/White     Not used H2/2 BLACK/ White     Chassis ground H2/3 Blue/White     Not used ??H2/4 GREEN/ Black     Not used H2/5 RED / White     Not used, although I may eventually wire through relay for use ??H2/6 Green Purple / YELLOW (-)     Body ECU,(Top, White, 26-Pin Plug) Pin 12          the Body ECU is attached to the back of the  dash fuse box, it has 3 plugs on the right side  edge. H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW     White (-) Dash fuse box, (White, 20-Pin Plug (A), Pin 8 H2/8 BROWN / Black     GREEN/ red (-) Horn switch (Black, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 6 ??H2/9 Dark Blue     No idea, to bypass module, I have a PKALL? ??H2/10     Pink Not used ??H2/11     WHITE/ Black     Not used ??H2/12     Violet Not used, What is different about this than H2/6? ??H2/13     WHITE/ Violet     Not used ??H2/14     Violet/Black     Not used ??H2/15     ORANGE / black     Not used ??H2/16     Brown GREEN/ YELLOW (+)     Switch above pedal or drivers sill harness or          Dash fuse box, (White, 16 pin Plug(F), Pin 16 H2/17 Grey Hood Switch ??H2/18     Violet / YELLOW     Not used ??H2/19     Blue Not used ??H2/20     Grey/Black     Not used ??H2/21     WHITE/ Blue     Not used ??H2/22     Orange Not used ??H2/23     Violet/White     BLACK/ White (-) Drivers kick panel, (White, 13-pin plug) Pin 13 ??H2/24     GREEN / WHITE     Not used Remote Start, 10-pin Wire 5704 4Runner color 4Runner Location --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ??H3/1 Pink BLACK/ Red (+) Ignition switch harn, (White, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 4 ??H3/2 RED / White     Not used ??H3/3 Orange WHITE/ green (+) Ignition switch harness (White, 8-Pin) Pin 3 ??H3/4 Violet GREEN/ Black (+) Ignition switch harness (White, 8-Pin) Pin 8          Cut this GREEN/ black wire and attach violet to          car side ??H3/5 Green GREEN/ Black (+) Ignition switch harness (White, 8-Pin) Pin 8          Cut this GREEN/ black wire and attach green to          key side ??H3/6 Red WHITE/ Blue       (+)          Ignition switch harness or        Red   Ignition switch, (White, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 7 ??H3/7 Pink/White     Not used ??H3/8 Pink/black     Not used ??H3/9 RED / Black     WHITE/ Blue       (+)          Ignition switch harness or        Red   Ignition switch, (White, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 7 H3/10 Not used Some additional questions relate to the following: 1) Key sense (GREEN/ YELLOW (-)) wire: I could connect this to aux output to disarm without unlocking? 2) In my installation, where would I need additional relays/diodes? 3) Why the two door trigger inputs (H2/6 and H2/12)? 4) What is the difference in function of the H3/1 and H3/6 wires, they both say Ignition 1 input? Thank you for any help! Tony

3 pin plug for locks, you are incorrect. The blue wire goes to green, 18pp, pin 8. The blue goes to blue, 18pp, pin 6, both in the DKP.These are the drivers door cylinder wires and will allow you to have 2 stage unlock just like the factory remote does. You will need to connect the blue 2nd unlock wire on your alarm together with the blue unlock wire above. I believe it is H 2/19 but i'll have to look it up to be sure.

Also, you need to connect the second ignition wire. Do this by connecting the pink/white to the blue / YELLOW on the ignition harness, and connecting RED / white to the white blue.

1. The object of connecting keysense is to disarm before it remote starts. Yor PKALL may alreay do this, i'm not familiar with it to know but most bypasses do.

2. No other relays or diodes needed. If BLACK / YELLOW H2/7 going to white is a supervision wire, would probably need a relay to work. Most alarms just have a milliamp output for this.

4. 3/6 is the supply for the ignition and gets a constant  12volts. 3/1 is the output and feeds the truck ignition from the RS. Wire it as shown.

3. the green is for negative trigger and purple is for positive trigger. Some Fords used positive, not your truck so don't use it.

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

OK,so if I understand correctly, the following would be accurate: A) Main Harness, 6 pin connector Wire 5704 Color     4Runner color 4Runner Location ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- H1/1 Red WHITE/ Blue Ignition Switch Harness H1/2 Black GroundChassis ground H1/3 Brown N/aSiren (red wire) ??H1/4       WHITE/ Brown     Not used ??H1/5       White Green (+) Dash fuse box (White, 16 pin plug (F) Pin 13      Viper jumper/fuse set to (+) ??H1/6 Orange Not used, what is this for? B) Door Lock, 3-pin Wire 5704 4Runner color 4Runner Location ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1 Blue Green (-) Drivers kick panel (White, 18 pin Plug) Pin 8      This is the factory alarm/disarm wire. I believe I can use this instead of the power unlock/lock wires (however, my car did not come with factory alarm so I am uncertain) 2 Not used ??3 Green  Blue(-)        Drivers door harness or RED / White to         Blue/White (Type B)        Drivers kick panel, (White, 18-Pin Plug) Pin 4 or blue, 18pp, pin 6 I have found all three of those options listed now including the last one on the revisions above. I don't find a second blue unlock wire but may have misunderstood.       C) Auxillary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin Wire 5704 4Runner color 4Runner Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ??H2/1 Pink/White     Not used H2/2 BLACK/ White     Chassis ground H2/3 Blue/White     Not used ??H2/4 GREEN/ Black     Not used H2/5 RED / White     Not used, although I may eventually wire through relay for use ??H2/6 Green Purple / YELLOW (-)     Body ECU,(Top, White, 26-Pin Plug) Pin 12      the Body ECU is attached to the back of the  dash fuse box, it has 3 plugs on the right side  edge. H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW     White (-) Dash fuse box, (White, 20-Pin Plug (A), Pin 8 H2/8 BROWN / Black     GREEN/ red (-) Horn switch (Black, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 6 ??H2/9 Dark Blue     No idea, to bypass module, I have a PKALL? ??H2/10     Pink Not used ??H2/11     WHITE/ Black     Not used ??H2/12     Violet Not used, What is different about this than H2/6? ??H2/13     WHITE/ Violet     Not used ??H2/14     Violet/Black     Not used ??H2/15     ORANGE / black     Not used ??H2/16     Brown GREEN/ YELLOW (+)     Switch above pedal or drivers sill harness or      Dash fuse box, (White, 16 pin Plug(F), Pin 16 H2/17 Grey Hood Switch ??H2/18     Violet / YELLOW     Not used ??H2/19     Blue Not used ??H2/20     Grey/Black     Not used ??H2/21     WHITE/ Blue     Not used ??H2/22     Orange Not used ??H2/23     Violet/White     BLACK/ White (-) Drivers kick panel, (White, 13-pin plug) Pin 13 ??H2/24     GREEN / WHITE     Not used Remote Start, 10-pin Wire 5704 4Runner color 4Runner Location --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- ??H3/1 Pink  BLACK/ Red (+) Ignition switch harn, (White, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 4 ??H3/2 RED / White      WHITE/ Blue       (+)          Ignition switch harness      ??H3/3 Orange WHITE/ green (+) Ignition switch harness (White, 8-Pin) Pin 3 ??H3/4 Violet GREEN/ Black (+) Ignition switch harness (White, 8-Pin) Pin 8      Cut this GREEN/ black wire and attach violet to      car side ??H3/5 Green GREEN/ Black (+) Ignition switch harness (White, 8-Pin) Pin 8      Cut this GREEN/ black wire and attach green to      key side ??H3/6 Red WHITE/ Blue       (+) Ignition switch harness or      RedIgnition switch, (White, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 7 ??H3/7 Pink/White     Blue / YELLOW        Ignition switch harness, (White, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 4    ??H3/8 Pink/black     Not used ??H3/9 RED / Black     WHITE/ Blue       (+) Ignition switch harness or      RedIgnition switch, (White, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 7 H3/10 Not used It is possible I need a relay for the domelight supervision H2/7 I may need keysense depending on PKALL functionality Thank all in advance for any advice!

Sounds like Mike already answered your questions, but I'll try too. I'll respond based on your A/B/C sections above. A: Everything looks right there. To answer your question about the orange wire: It makes a steady ground the entire time the system is armed. The ground goes away when the system is not armed. Used for: If you desire an external starter kill relay (instead of the one built into the unit), or maybe one of those fancy flashing lights that come on only when the system is armed. Also, some window rollup modules, as well as that "protected by Viper stand back" module call for a connection to the orange wire. In these cases, the windows would roll up every time you set the alarm, and the voice module would say "viper armed" and "viper disarmed." B: I don't remember the color, but somewhere on that unit is an aux output that can also be reconfigured as "second unlock." You might have to look through all the available options for AUX1 through AUX4. Anyway, what Mike is saying is this: Find your second-unlock output from your Viper, turn it on in programming, and (you'll find that it is a very short wire), splice it onto the regular blue unlock wire from the Viper. This way, when you press Viper unlock once, you'll hit your Toyota disarm wire once, unlocking the driver's door. Press Viper unlock again (quickly after the first time), and you'll be sending another pulse to the Toyota disarm wire, letting your passengers in. Just like from the factory. By the way, program your doorlock pulse duration to 0.4 seconds (0.8 is default), and you'll see that the passenger unlocking will work more quickly. P.S. If you don't want to have driver's-priority unlocking (maybe you don't like it? I don't either), just forget the second unlock altogether, just hook up your regular green and blue wires, and program the unit for 0.4 seconds and double-pulse unlock. If it were my car, I'd say that even if you don't want priority unlocking, you should still splice that second-unlock wire onto the regular blue unlock wire. This way, if you change your mind later (or sell the car to someone else), you can just go into programming and turn double pulse off, and second unlock on---no need to take the car apart again. C: H2/6: This is your door trigger, right? I never tried using the location you mentioned. At the ignition switch, in the connector where you'll connect the TX/RX of your PKALL, test all the other wires in that plug. One goes to the illumination ring on the key cylinder. I use that for door trigger; I'm already going there for the bypass anyway. H2/7: What is this for? I'm not familiar with all Viper colors. H2/8: Yes. Do be aware that Viper horn is set to off by default, and you won't be able to "hear" your way through the programming menus unless you hook up the siren first. Also, you can get the horn wire in one of the plugs on the right side of the fuse box (I think it's the bottom plug in yellow tape?). Due to the telescoping steering column, you'll find it a little difficult to get directly to the horn switch. H2/9: This blue wire would probably work, but you're generally better off using the blue/white. Blue comes on exactly when the remote starter turns on the ignition; blue/white comes on earlier. You want your bypass module "up and running" BEFORE the ignition comes on. H2/12: Correct, don't use it. Some cars (old Fords, but some newer GMs and Chryslers) have a positive trigger domelight. Not used in your application. In your car, the wire will test as ground when the door is open. H2/16: On the left-front of the fuse box, is a vertical plug. There are two green parking light wires (use either), and one brake wire. A lot easier than trying to get at the pedal switch. H2/23: What is this for? I'm not familiar with all Viper colors. H3/3: The accessory wire on Toyotas powers up the mirror controls, radio, cigarette lighter, and other non-essentials. I purposely don't connect it, to keep the radio silent during remote start. Others prefer it connected. It's your car; up to you. Your other questions: Domelight supervision: The Toyota arm/disarm wires will automatically turn on the domelight when the car is unlocked via remote AND the engine is off. This is good enough for most people. Connecting domelight supervision will add two things: When you unlock during remote start, the domelight will come on. And also, if the alarm is triggered, the domelight will flash to attract a little more attention than just the parking lights. If you're tying directly to the domelight circuit in the car, you will need a relay. If you tie just into the driver's-front door trigger wire, you might be able to get away without a relay, not sure. Also, don't try to "supervise" the wire going to the illumination ring around the key cylinder. It's on a separate circuit, and you'll only succeed in illuminating the ignition switch, but not the rest of the car. Keysense and PKALL: Since the SR5 doesn't have a factory alarm, don't worry about it. The PKALL might automatically activate the keysense in the car; I'm not sure. But in your case it doesn't matter. Doesn't hurt to activate it, but also doesn't do anything. (You still need to connect PKALL green to car's keysense for programming no matter what, though.) Something else: Does your 4Runner have autolamps? If not, do you do that thing that some Toyota owners seem to like......just leaving the headlight switch in the "on" position all the time? If you do that, you'll want to connect your GREEN / WHITE (rearm) to the driver's door trigger wire, maybe via a relay. The reason for that is that the headlights turn off when a door is opened. If a door is not opened, the lights stay on until the battery dies. If you were to activate the remote starter with the headlight switch on, and then allow the system to time out (or shut it back off via remote), the lights would stay on indefinitely. The GREEN / WHITE is to simulate opening and closing the driver's door. A:

Excellent help!! So, to summarize modifications: Vehicle: 2007 Toyota 4runner 4wd V8 SR5 System: Viper 5704 with RS and PKALL A) Main Harness, 6 pin connector Wire 5704 Color     4Runner color 4Runner Location ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- H1/1 Red WHITE/ Blue Ignition Switch Harness        Red H1/2 Black Ground   Chassis ground H1/3 Brown N/a   Siren (red wire) H1/4 WHITE/ Brown     Not used H1/5 White Green (+) Dash fuse box (White, 16 pin plug (F) Pin 13      Viper jumper/fuse set to (+) H1/6 Orange: Not mandatory B) Door Lock, 3-pin Wire 5704 4Runner color 4Runner Location ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ 1 Blue Green (-) Drivers kick panel (White, 18 pin Plug) Pin 8 2 Not used 3 Green  Blue(-)        Drivers door harness or  RED / White to     Blue/White (Type B)        Drivers kick panel, (White, 18-Pin Plug) Pin 4 or blue, 18pp, pin 6 It looks like I can configure any of the aux outputs as a second unlock as described! C) Auxillary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin Wire 5704 4Runner color 4Runner Location ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- H2/1 Pink/White     Not used H2/2 BLACK/ White     Chassis ground H2/3 Blue/White     Not used H2/4 GREEN/ Black     Not used H2/5 RED / White     Not used H2/6 Green Purple / YELLOW (-)     Body ECU,(Top, White, 26-Pin Plug) Pin 12          the Body ECU is attached to the back of the  dash fuse box, it has 3 plugs on the right side  edge. H2/7 BLACK / YELLOW     White (-) Dash fuse box, (White, 20-Pin Plug (A), Pin 8 H2/8 BROWN / Black     GREEN/ red (-) Horn switch (Black, 12-Pin Plug) Pin 6 H2/9 Dark Blue     Either this or H2/3 to bypass? H2/10     Pink Not used H2/11     WHITE/ Black     Not used H2/12     Violet Not used H2/13     WHITE/ Violet     Not used H2/14     Violet/Black     Not used H2/15     ORANGE / black     Not used H2/16     Brown GREEN/ YELLOW (+)    Switch above pedal or drivers sill harness or          Dash fuse box, (White, 16 pin Plug(F), Pin 16 On the left-front of the fuse box, is a vertical plug. There are two green parking light wires (use either), and one brake wire. A lot easier than trying to get at the pedal switch. H2/17 Grey Hood Switch H2/18     Violet / YELLOW     Not used H2/19     Blue Not used H2/20     Grey/Black     Not used H2/21     WHITE/ Blue     Not used H2/22     Orange Not used H2/23     Violet/White     BLACK/ White (-) Drivers kick panel, (White, 13-pin plug) Pin 13 H2/24     GREEN / WHITE     Not used Remote Start, 10-pin Wire 5704 4Runner color 4Runner Location --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- H3/1 Pink   BLACK/ Red (+) Ignition switch harn, (White, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 4 H3/2 RED / White      WHITE/ Blue       (+)        Ignition switch harness       H3/3 Orange WHITE/ green (+) Ignition switch harness (White, 8-Pin) Pin 3 The accessory wire on Toyotas powers up the mirror controls, radio, cigarette lighter, and other non-essentials. Some purposely don't connect it, to keep the radio silent during remote start. H3/4    Violet GREEN/ Black (+) Ignition switch harness (White, 8-Pin) Pin 8      Cut this GREEN/ black wire and attach violet to      car side H3/5     Green   GREEN/ Black (+) Ignition switch harness (White, 8-Pin) Pin 8      Cut this GREEN/ black wire and attach green to      key side H3/6        Red    WHITE/ Blue       (+) Ignition switch harness or    Red   Ignition switch, (White, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 7 H3/7 Pink/White     Blue / YELLOW  Ignition switch harness, (White, 8-Pin) Pin 4     H3/8    Pink/black     Not used H3/9    RED / Black     WHITE/ Blue       (+) Ignition switch harness or      Red      Ignition switch, (White, 8-Pin Plug) Pin 7 H3/10      Not used To answer your questions: H2/7 : This is listed as the domelight supervision wire from Viper H2/23: This is listed as the tachometer wire Additional questions: 1) When you comment that the Toyota arm/disarm function turns on the domelight, I do not understand when those functions are stimulated by the Viper (i.e. when am I hooking up to those functions)? 2) H2/9: Are you saying to use H2/3 instead?

1. What Chris means is you may decide not to connect the BLACK / YELLOW H2/7 at all due to the fact that when the Viper unlocks the truck the domelight will automatcally come on due to the way the truck itself operates. My suggestion is to not use the BLACK / YELLOW at all since it has little benefit.

2. Yes, that is what he is saying.

Also, you have pin 4 listed twice on the ignition harness, which of coarse can't be right. All the colors are correct tho...

Mike M2

Tech Manager

CS Dealer Services

Thanks, Mike. nsca: If you want to see how the domelight would operate without hooking up the supervision wire, do the following: 1: Go outside to car; bring two keys with you. Roll down a window so you can't lock yourself out. 2: Put a key in the driver's door, turn it back and forth, observe domelight behavior. 3: Take that second key, start the engine, and now go back outside and turn the key back and forth in the door again, while the engine is running.

Fantastic help so far. I've got it temporarily wired up, and remote start and the alarm preliminarily seem to work. A couple of comments and then another question. 1) The recommendation for using H2/3 instead of H2/9 was spot on because originally I used H2/9 and the PKALL wouldn't program. 2) When the PKALL didn't initially program, I couldn't start the car even with the key. I didn't fully appreciate that the PKALL wouldn't allow immobilizer override if not programmed even if I was using the key. Question: My normal behavior is to get in the car and put my foot on the brake, put the key in, and turn the key. Based on the brake override, that sequence would stop and remote start (i.e. if the brake is pushed prior to key turn). If I were to wire the brake light wire to the reverse sensing/light wire that my backup camera is wired to, would that serve the same remote start safety function? Any negatives? Thank you!

I meant: "would stop THE remote start" not "would stop AND remote start"

I wanted to say that this is my goto thread for installing my Viper 4704v Remote Start with PKALL bypass and a 2102T module (Passive Keyless Entry) into my 2006 4Runner Sport.

The wires are literally the same expect my H3 harness... I don't have the alarm portion (my unit is just a remote start) so I don't have the H3/5 green wire and I don't have to cut the wire to my starter.But you guys have been a great help from the OP to all of the advice. This project is literally taking me no time at all because of all the advice here. I don't know what I'd do without this page.There are a few extra things I'm wiring up (a RadioShack piezo buzzer instead of my horn because I don't have a siren and I want a stock sounding chirp and can't use the toyota buzzer because it's controlled by the ECU), rear window up/down, sunroof open, defroster, etc. but I found those on other threads :)

THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!