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Subject Topic: viper 4204 with dball wiring assistance

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ssg of america
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Posted: November 05, 2012 at 2:20 PM - IP Logged
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Car: 2009 Nissan Altima 2.5SL Automatic with PTS

Hardware: Viper 4204 Remote Start / Xpresskit DBALL with   firmware 401.NISS3HT v1.05

I have the installation guide for both kits as well as a DirectWire print out for a 2008 altima. My confusion is coming from which wires to use from the remote start. The DBALL instructions are very straight forward since I'm using D2D, except for the one wire that connects to the (+) ignition on the Remote start (2 ignitions).

Here is the Remote start wiring guide (i put at the end of each what I believe is correct).

4204V

H1/1 (red) (+) 12vdc constant input > 40a constant on bcm
H1/2 (black) (-) chassis ground > ground by kick panel
H1/3 (brown) (-) 200mA horn honk output > pin 8 on horn plug
H1/4 (white/brown) light flash isolation wire-87a light flash relay > do I use this?
H1/5 (white) pin 30 of light flash relay > do I use this?
H1/6 (orange) 500mA ground when armed output > do I use this?

H2/1 (pink/white) (-)200mA flex relay control output > do I use this?
H2/2 (black/white) (-) neutral safety input > Do I use this with an automatic?
H2/3 (blue/white) (-) 200mA 2nd status / rear defogger output > pin 40 on green bcm connector
H2/4 (green/black) (-) 200mA factory alarm disarm output > pin 6 or 7 on power window main switch
H2/5 (red/white) (-) 200mA trunk release output > D2D does this?
H2/6 (green) (-) door input > D2D does this?
H2/7 (black/yellow) (-) 200mA dome light output > bcm wht plug pin 16
H2/8 (empty)
H2/9 (dark blue) (-) 200mA status output > I have no clue???
H2/10 (pink) (-) 200mA ignition 1 output > second ign bcm gray plug pin 16
H2/11 (white/black) (-) 200mA aux 3 output > dont need?
H2/12 (violet) (+) door input > does D2D do this?
H2/13 (white/violet) (-) 200mA aux 1 output > do I need this?
H2/14 (violet/black) (-) 200mA aux 2 output > do I need this?
H2/15 (orange/black) (-) 200mA aux 4 output > do I need this?
H2/16 (brown) (+) brake shutdown input > does the D2D do this?
H2/17 (gray) (-) hood pin input (nc or no) > hood switch
H2/18 (violet/yellow) (-) 200mA starter output > does D2D do this?
H2/19 (blue) factory horn input (use jumper to set ploarity) > do I hook this up with the other horn?
H2/20 (gray/black) (-) diesel wait to start input > N/A
H2/21 (white/blue) activation input > what is this?
H2/22 (orange) (-) 200mA accessory output > do I use this? both accessories are +
H2/23 (violet/white) tachometer input > fuel injector or coil pack wire.
H2/24 (green/white) (-) 200mA factory alarm arm output > pin 4 or 6 on power window main switch

H3/1 (pink) (+) ignition 1 input/output > Pin 11 on bcm blk plug
H3/2 (red/white) +12v fused (30A) ignition 2/flex relay input > do I use this?
H3/3 (orange) (+) accessory output > pin 31 on bcm blk plug
H3/4 (violet) (+) starter output > Pin 4 on PTS
H3/5 (red) +12v fused (30A) ignition 1 input > rear of dash fuse box white 1 pin plug
H3/6 (pink/white) ignition 2/flex relay output > do I use this?
H3/7 (pink/black) flex relay input 87a (if required) of flex relay > do I use this?
H3/8 (red/black) +12v fused (30A) accessory/stater input > do I use this? if so does it go to the starter or accessory...or both?

1 (blue) (-) 500mA unlock output > does D2D do this?
2 (empty)
3 (green) (-) 500mA lock output > does D2D do this?

DBALL

BLUE 14/3 (tan/black) HSCAN high > pin 6 on obdII
BLUE 14/4 (tan) HSCAN low > pin 14 on obdII
BLUE 14/8 (yellow) data (vehicle side) > Pin 14/11 and vehicle side of key port
BLUE 14/9 (orange/yellow) data (keyport side) > key side of keyport

RED 12/2 (green/black) (-) push to start > pin 4 PTS
RED 12/4 (red/black) (-) door pin output > pin 39 green bcm connector
RED 12/7 (gray/black) (+) keysense output > pin 11 on keyport
RED 12/8 (purple/green) (+) ignition status output > H3/1 on remote start?
RED 12/9 (purple/brown) (+) ignition status output > H3/1 on remote start?
RED 12/10 (yellow/black) clock > pin 2 on keyport
RED 12/11 (orange/black) data > 14/9 or vehicle side keyport

Hopefully this can help others in the future as well. thank you in advance.
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offroadzj
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Posted: November 05, 2012 at 3:50 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote offroadzj

A couple quick points before I go through your posted list..
1. Save yourself a ton of future headache and don't use D2D. Use W2W... it is a lot more reliable and gives you the ability to test things down the road.
2. Ditch the DB-ALL and pick up an idatalink bypass. I used to use the DEI bypasses and they were very unreliable. Since switching to idatalink, I don't think I'll ever go back.
___________________________________
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
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shortcircuit161
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Posted: November 05, 2012 at 4:00 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote shortcircuit161

x2 with Kenny on ditching the DB-ALL. I used to install them all the time until they started failing to program or losing their programming after it was working for days or weeks. iDatalink all the way and on rare ocassions a Fortin. Both rock solid modules. Never looked back.
___________________________________
Frank
Datacomm Integrations
Shickshinny, PA
570-902-9971

Proudly serving all areas of Northeast PA

Alarms, Remote Start, Audio/Video, Tint and more!
We install at your location!
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ssg of america
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Posted: November 05, 2012 at 4:18 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote ssg of america

thank you, points noted. I bought DEI products assuming they would make it easier since they come from the same manufacturer...I was clearly wrong. If I could return this one I would.
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offroadzj
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Posted: November 05, 2012 at 5:22 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote offroadzj

ssg of america wrote:
Car: 2009 Nissan Altima 2.5SL Automatic with PTS

Hardware: Viper 4204 Remote Start / Xpresskit DBALL with   firmware 401.NISS3HT v1.05

I have the installation guide for both kits as well as a DirectWire print out for a 2008 altima. My confusion is coming from which wires to use from the remote start. The DBALL instructions are very straight forward since I'm using D2D, except for the one wire that connects to the (+) ignition on the Remote start (2 ignitions).

Here is the Remote start wiring guide (i put at the end of each what I believe is correct).

4204V

H1/1 (red) (+) 12vdc constant input > 40a constant on bcm <---Correct. Make sure to connect all 12v inputs.
H1/2 (black) (-) chassis ground > ground by kick panel <--- Use a factory bolt if possible. Try to avoid drilling a new hole.
H1/3 (brown) (-) 200mA horn honk output > pin 8 on horn plug <--- Correct.
H1/4 (white/brown) light flash isolation wire-87a light flash relay > do I use this? <--- Not required.
H1/5 (white) pin 30 of light flash relay > do I use this? <--- Connect to parking light input on DBAll
H1/6 (orange) 500mA ground when armed output > do I use this? <--- Not required.

H2/1 (pink/white) (-)200mA flex relay control output > do I use this? <--- Not required.
H2/2 (black/white) (-) neutral safety input > Do I use this with an automatic? <--- Ground with chassis ground or through toggle safety switch.
H2/3 (blue/white) (-) 200mA 2nd status / rear defogger output > pin 40 on green bcm connector <--- Cannot verify right now.
H2/4 (green/black) (-) 200mA factory alarm disarm output > pin 6 or 7 on power window main switch <--- Only if door locks / factory security is not controlled by the DBAll. If it is, then you will connect this to the DBAll input.
H2/5 (red/white) (-) 200mA trunk release output > D2D does this? <--- Connect to the DBAll trunk release input.
H2/6 (green) (-) door input > D2D does this? <--- Connect to DBAll door input.
H2/7 (black/yellow) (-) 200mA dome light output > bcm wht plug pin 16 <--- Not required.
H2/8 (empty)
H2/9 (dark blue) (-) 200mA status output > I have no clue??? <--- Connect to DBAll GWR (status) input.
H2/10 (pink) (-) 200mA ignition 1 output > second ign bcm gray plug pin 16 <--- Not required.
H2/11 (white/black) (-) 200mA aux 3 output > dont need? <--- Not required.
H2/12 (violet) (+) door input > does D2D do this? <--- Not required.
H2/13 (white/violet) (-) 200mA aux 1 output > do I need this? <--- Not required.
H2/14 (violet/black) (-) 200mA aux 2 output > do I need this? <--- Not required.
H2/15 (orange/black) (-) 200mA aux 4 output > do I need this? <--- Not required.
H2/16 (brown) (+) brake shutdown input > does the D2D do this? <--- Connect to DBAll Brake output
H2/17 (gray) (-) hood pin input (nc or no) > hood switch <--- Connect to DBAll Hood status output
H2/18 (violet/yellow) (-) 200mA starter output > does D2D do this? <--- Not required.
H2/19 (blue) factory horn input (use jumper to set ploarity) > do I hook this up with the other horn? <--- Not required.
H2/20 (gray/black) (-) diesel wait to start input > N/A <--- Not required.
H2/21 (white/blue) activation input > what is this? <--- Not required.
H2/22 (orange) (-) 200mA accessory output > do I use this? both accessories are + <--- Not required.
H2/23 (violet/white) tachometer input > fuel injector or coil pack wire. <--- Connect to DBAll tach output or to any fuel injector / coil pack odd colored wire.
H2/24 (green/white) (-) 200mA factory alarm arm output > pin 4 or 6 on power window main switch <--- See factory disarm above.

H3/1 (pink) (+) ignition 1 input/output > Pin 11 on bcm blk plug <--- Connect to DBAll ignition input and output (2 connections)
H3/2 (red/white) +12v fused (30A) ignition 2/flex relay input > do I use this? <--- Connect together with main 12v input.
H3/3 (orange) (+) accessory output > pin 31 on bcm blk plug <--- Not required.
H3/4 (violet) (+) starter output > Pin 4 on PTS <--- Connect to + brake wire on car.
H3/5 (red) +12v fused (30A) ignition 1 input > rear of dash fuse box white 1 pin plug <--- Connect with other 12v constant inputs.
H3/6 (pink/white) ignition 2/flex relay output > do I use this? <---Not required.
H3/7 (pink/black) flex relay input 87a (if required) of flex relay > do I use this? <--- Not required.
H3/8 (red/black) +12v fused (30A) accessory/stater input > do I use this? if so does it go to the starter or accessory...or both? <--- Connect with other main 12v constant inputs.

1 (blue) (-) 500mA unlock output > does D2D do this? <--- Not required. (unless not using factory arm / disarm)
2 (empty)
3 (green) (-) 500mA lock output > does D2D do this? <--- Not required (unless not using factory arm / diarm)

DBALL

BLUE 14/3 (tan/black) HSCAN high > pin 6 on obdII <--- Correct
BLUE 14/4 (tan) HSCAN low > pin 14 on obdII <--- Correct.
BLUE 14/8 (yellow) data (vehicle side) > Pin 14/11 and vehicle side of key port <--- Correct
BLUE 14/9 (orange/yellow) data (keyport side) > key side of keyport <--- Correct

RED 12/2 (green/black) (-) push to start > pin 4 PTS <--- Correct.
RED 12/4 (red/black) (-) door pin output > pin 39 green bcm connector <--- Connect to Remote start door pin input
RED 12/7 (gray/black) (+) keysense output > pin 11 on keyport <--- Correct.
RED 12/8 (purple/green) (+) ignition status output > H3/1 on remote start? <--- Correct.
RED 12/9 (purple/brown) (+) ignition status output > H3/1 on remote start? <---Correct.
RED 12/10 (yellow/black) clock > pin 2 on keyport <--- Correct.
RED 12/11 (orange/black) data > 14/9 or vehicle side keyport <--- Correct.

Hopefully this can help others in the future as well. thank you in advance.



Please see all comments next to each question. You are incorrect on quite a few of the connections and judging by your comments, I would HIGHLY suggest passing this to a pro. I have been doing remote starters for about 10 years now and have done thousands... I just started doing the PTS vehicles within the past couple years because they can be quite a bit more difficult. In addition, the BCM is VERY hard to get to on this car. The plugs can be very tight to get access to the wiring, and the screws are tamper-proof screws so they don't come out without a major fight.

In addition, a small error when testing or connecting a wire can cause a lot of damage... so if you are not experienced, I would pick a different (easier) vehicle to start on.

If you do decide to not heed my warning / suggestion, make sure to test EVERYTHING before making ANY connections. If you don't have a good quality DMM, get one before you even think about starting.
___________________________________
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
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ssg of america
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Posted: November 06, 2012 at 11:29 AM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote ssg of america

thanks Kenny, your suggestions are noted as well.

I've been in the electrical / electronics trade my whole life...professionally since '95. I've worked on everything from VCR's to Nuclear A/C carriers and subs, I currently work on Helicopters for the Army.

I'm more than capable of doing the work just not familiar with remote starters. I would be capable of figuring it out myself if Directed supplied something useful like an elec schematic or logic diagram...the wire descriptions were vague in its purpose and I'm not really sure why they need to supply a diagram for where the harnesses plug into the brain (unless you never mastered shapes as a kid).

I figured I would try and save myself some time crawling around with my multimeter in the car and see if anyone would help me out...as you did kindly.

thank you.
___________________________________
Owner/Builder/Fabricator

Syner G Racing LLC
EST. 2003

V-FAB LLC
EST. 2006
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offroadzj
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Posted: November 06, 2012 at 1:18 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote offroadzj

If you are confident in your abilities then have at it... and we'll help where we can. We just see a lot of backyard hack mechanics that think they can install a remote starting in a 2013 Mercedes because they know how to change a battery. Sadly it doesn't work that way. Making the connections is the easy part. Knowing how to use the sometimes correct information that you can find and turning that into something that actually works correctly is where it gets hard. But make sure to test everything you possibly can. Some wires are very difficult and sometimes not possible to test (ie some CAN wires, data wires, etc) and you have to hope that the diagrams are correct.

So as pointed out earlier, take your time with the install, test and re-test EVERYTHING you can, W2W the bypass to the module, and make proper connections.
___________________________________
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
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ssg of america
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Posted: November 06, 2012 at 11:43 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote ssg of america

I'm taking the advice from you both and requesting a RMA to return all the Xpresskit crap. After looking at the installation guide with the Fortin EVO ALL I realized I purchased the wrong bypass. I did a bit or research and saw complaint after complaint about the inconsistancy of the DB ALL and I checked out idatalink and fortin and was sold....hopefully they will let me return them.

I will post up my results once I get into this install.


___________________________________
Owner/Builder/Fabricator

Syner G Racing LLC
EST. 2003

V-FAB LLC
EST. 2006
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offroadzj
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Posted: November 07, 2012 at 5:52 AM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote offroadzj

To be 100% honest, even if they don't return it, it is probably still worth it to sell it for what you can and still buy either an idatalink or fortin. Just make sure that you buy the idatalink / fortin from somewhere that will program it for you. If you get the idatalink DLSL CA2, it should come pre-loaded with the required firmware.
___________________________________
Kenny
Owner / Technician
KKD Garage LLC
Albany, NY 12205
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ssg of america
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Posted: November 12, 2012 at 11:37 AM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote ssg of america

Purchased the EVO-ALL and the Flash link updater for both the nissan and toyota. I will start a new post for those that may be interested.


___________________________________
Owner/Builder/Fabricator

Syner G Racing LLC
EST. 2003

V-FAB LLC
EST. 2006
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