avital 5303l remote start

Hi guys, I'm a noob here, and this is my first post. A little about me: I'm an ASE certified tech with 16 years experience. I can read wiring diagrams, and know how to follow instructions, so that's not a problem. I've got a 2002 Toyota Camry SE WITHOUT a transponder module. It's a project car that i got from my step-son. Let me tell you, i have damn near rebuilt this car from the ground up, because my wife's dingle-berry son doesn't know how to take care of s**t. Anyway, i installed new carpet, new struts ( yes, all 4 ), new timing chain, serp belt, tensioner, installed a JVC KW-AV50 head unit, along with subwoofer and all new speakers. Yeah, I'm having a mid-life crisis. I was going to get it painted, but i kinda ran out of money. Its the slow season for mechanic work, so it's parked in the garage while i take care of a bunch of dings and dents from a hail storm they had in Dallas. I got most of the body work done, and like all WORK-IN-PROGRESS cars, it's got primer here and there, along with bondo here and there. It's too cold to shoot primer on it now, so I've got until March to screw around with it. My wife bought me an AVITAL 5303 remote start security system for Christmas. I got around to taking the covers off and locating and labeling the necessary wires for most of the functions. Ive read plenty of other forums and posts from other members and websites. And that has helped tremendously. What i'm asking for here is this: does anyone have access to the DEI website that can show me, word-for-word, how to hook up the remote start function to this car? Ive been to their website, and i got the included instructions, but seeing as how this is my FIRST car alarm install, i'm doing what any good tech does...ask for help. Looking at the install sheet for this model, i see the HEAVY GAUGE RELAY SATELLITE wiring, and i'm kinda at a loss. Also, is the RELAY SATELLITE 4-PIN CONNECTOR used for adding a relay ? If anyone can help me on this, i'm willing to show my appreciation. I have access to Mitchell-On-Demand repair guide, and also Identa-fix, which is a bas ass technicians website for diagnosing problems with just about any car. Since time is not an issue here, any personal help I get would benefit us all, as I plan on doing a STEP-BY-STEP guide with both pictures and HD VIDEO. Once again, I sincerely thank any and all who can respond and help.

Greetings and welcome to the 12 Volt!

For the most part, nothing like a step by step guide for the installation of the exact products into that

exact vehicle exist.  But not to worry, there are many expert 12V installers on this site that can assistyou on this project.

First and foremost is your ability to use a Digital Multi Meter and soldering gun.  I image you have both

and are somewhat experienced in their use.

Next step is to watch some generic how-to install videos like these :

http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/remoteStartervideo500.html https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUo_2_ysmd4 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5FgLK5DQefA&feature=relmfu https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8PKVGRBKfs&feature=relmfu

After that you will want to obtain all the wiring guide info / listings from all available sources :

Bulldog Security : http://www.readyremote.com/main.aspReady Remote : http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspAudiovox ( free sign-up screen ) http://techservices.audiovox.com/AccessRequest.aspx

Then compare all that info and make up a cheat sheet listing all the Avitals'  harnesses with their vehicle destination.

You can post that here for review / assistance.

This should get you started.

Soldering is fun!

Thanbkis for the quick replay KREG

I've been to the BULLDOG website, and thats where i got most of my info from.

Whats got me scratching my head is the Avital Quick Refence Guide for the HEAVY GUAGE RELAY SATELLITE. here is what it looks like:

➤ < size=3 face=FuturaCondMedium,FuturaCondMedium>< size=3 face=FuturaCondMedium,FuturaCondMedium>Heavy gauge relay satellite wiring diagram

< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/1	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> PURPLE	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> STARTER OUTPUT TO STARTER (STARTER SIDE)
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/2	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> GREEN	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> STARTER INPUT FROM IGNITION (KEY SIDE)
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/3	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> RED	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> (+) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/4	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> ORANGE	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> OUTPUT TO ACCESSORY CIRCUIT
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/5	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> PINK	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> OUTPUT TO PRIMARY IGNITION CIRCUIT
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/6	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> RED	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/7	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> PINK/WHITE	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> OUTPUT TO SECOND IGNITION CIRCUIT
< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> H/8	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> RED / WHITE	< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book">< size=1 face="ITC Officina Sans Book,ITC Officina Sans Book"> (+) (30A) HIGH CURRENT 12V INPUT

Am i going to have to cut some wires from the Ignition switch and place the PURPLE & GREEN wire in their respectve place? Here is the wiring info from BULLDOG. The wire colors have been confirmed by doing a visual on my car.

12 VOLT CONSTANT	WHITE/ RED (+) (12 Gauge)	@ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG
STARTER	BLACK/ WHITE (+), See NOTE #5	@ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG
STARTER 2	BLACK / YELLOW (+) (20 Gauge), See NOTE #5	@ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG
IGNITION 1	BLACK/ RED (+) (14 Gauge)	@ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG
IGNITION 2	BLACK / YELLOW (+) (20 Gauge)	@ IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG
IGNITION 3	N/A
ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1	BLUE/RED (+) (18 Gauge)	IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PLUG

Here is the ignition wiring :

Avital          Wire name 2002 Camry

H1 Purple Starter Out   BLACK/ White  Cut - vehicle sideH2 Green Starter In BLACK/ White  Cut - key sideH3 Red     +12V         WHITE/ RedH4 Orange   Acc1         Blue/RedH5 Pink     Ign1          BLACK/ RedH6 Red     +12V         WHITE/ RedH7 Pink/White      Ign2           BLACK / YELLOWH8 RED / White      +12V         WHITE/ Red

You don't have to cut the vehicles Starter1 wire if you don't want the Starter Kill feature of the Avital alarm

system.  In this case, leave the BLACK/ White Starter1 wire un-cut and only connect the Avital's H1 Purplewire.  Leave the Avital's Green wire unused.

Your car has two Starter wires and both need to be powered during a remote start.  The Avital 5303 has

a fairly easy way to do this using an extra external 30/40 Amp SPDT relay and a 20 Amp fuse / fuse holder.Use this Avital wire to control the relay :Remote start ribbon harness5  PURPLE  (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ON

Wire Relay as follows :

Relay Pin 85 to Avital PURPLE  (-) 200mA STARTER RELAY TURN ONRelay Pin 86 and 87 to +12V constant ( WHITE/ Red @ Ignition harness )Relay Pin 30 to BLACK / YELLOW @ Ignition harness

Your main issue will be correctly identifying the ignition wires, being as Toyota has used the BLACK / YELLOW

color combo twice in the same connector.  Both are 20 gauge wires, one is Starter2 and the other isIgnition2.  Your DMM will make this task easy.

Does the car have a Factory Alarm?  If you don't have a transponder based ignition immobilizer system, you

can use the the Avital's Blue (-) 200mA Status Output connected to the vehicles Keysense wire to disarm the Factory Alarm.

That takes care of the thick ignition wires.  If you are going to order relays, get two.  You will need another

for the trunk release.

Soldering is fun!

Kreg

Once again, thanks. I had read on another post (dated in june 2002) about an installer that had mentioned the smaller guage wires and the absolute need for using relays.

I'm going to order the realys right now, and with Amazon shipping, i'll have them by friday or saturday.

Like i said, since this is my first install, i'll be back for more help. I'll spend my time wisely, looking at relay wiring and what not. Your never too old to learn new stuff.

And just so everyone here knows....i've hated...HATED...any kind of electrical diag on vehicles. Just so many thnings that can go wrong, and when your flat-rate, electrical diag is the worst.

Sincerely appreciate your help....

Not too sure about needing relays with small gauge wires.  The relay used for Starter2 in this application

is due to the Avital's limited ignition outputs ( or the Camry's need for 5 ignition wires ).  With your Camry,you will find both thick and thin ignition wires.  It is OK to connect the R/S's thick ignition output wires tothe vehicles thin ignition wires.

The relay needed for the trunk release is due to the R/S's output type ( low current (-) ) and the vehicles

trunk release circuit type ( 5 wire reverse ).

Yes, read up on relays, get a new battery for your DMM and practice soldering. 

Get ready for some real fun!  

Soldering is fun!

Hey levithan, Sounds like you've already got good information from kreg; he's been on the forum for a long time too. I know you still have to learn about relays, but in most applications a relay is used like this: You have an item(alarm, toggle switch, whatever) that has a very weak output, not strong enough to power up your device (engine, light bulb, whatever) directly. So if I'm making any sense so far.....let's just simplify it. You have a little tiny 25-cent baby toggle switch, and you want to power up a dozen fog lights on a Jeep. If you put one end of the switch directly to the battery, and the other end of the switch to the fog lights, the switch would quickly fail. So what you do instead is you use your 25-cent switch to turn on ONLY the relay, and then the relay (which can usually carry 30 or 40 amps), "jumps" battery power from the battery to the fog lights. With that little tiny switch, you could light up a football stadium if you want. Anyway.......that XCRS Relay Satellite or whatever they call it, IS just a bunch of relays in a plastic box all pre-wired for you. (Most manufacturers build all this stuff into the remote starter's main box. Only DEI uses an external relay pack). So, they've already configured most of the relays for you. You should only need to buy two relays: One for the second starter wire, one for the trunk release.

You said you would like a step-by-step guide; there isn't one. But I've done a lot of those cars so I can give you some idea of where to find your wires. The tech sheets you will find online are usually accurate about wire colors, but are often not the best/easiest places to find said wire. STEERING COLUMN: In the column you'll find all the wires coming from the ignition switch. There's also the negative parking like wire (I usually don't use this), horn (I get this somewhere else), and you'll notice that the key cylinder in the car has a ring that lights up with the door open. Get your door trigger at the illumination ring wire; much easier than using diodes for all the separate doors. BOTTOM EDGE OF FUSE BOX: In the plug at the bottom edge of the fuse box, you'll find parking lights, brake, and horn. TO THE RIGHT OF THE STEERING COLUMN: You'll see a handful of plugs here. One is gray, and has two BLACK/ orange wires in it. The BLACK/ orange closer to the center of the plug is tachometer. DRIVER'S KICK PANEL: First, wiggle the rubber boot that goes into the driver's door, and you'll see the same wires wiggling inside the car, going to three plugs all in a row close to the front. Lock in the bottom plug, unlock in the top plug. Now, a little bit lower, closer to the back of the car, is a plug with a WHITE/ blue wire in it. That's your trunk release. Be sure to read the Relays section (on this site) and learn about how to do a 5-wire trunk. You'll be cutting the car's WHITE/ blue, not just splicing into it.

PREPARING YOUR SYSTEM FOR INSTALLATION: Most installers prepare or "prep" the system on a workbench or table before installation. The job will not only come out neater, but saves time and back pain. 20 minutes at the bench beats 45 minutes laying down under the dash! I'd say most installers can do a bench prep in 10-15 minutes. I'd allow myself 20 for the DEI systems with the old-style separate relay pack. If you're a newbie you might easily take an hour. Just put on the radio or TV, grab a drink, lay out your paperwork and tools. STEP 1: Step 1 is ALWAYS find and test the wires in the car, so you know where you'll be going to make your connections. Have a plan as to where you're going to mount your brain. I suggest zip ties behind the fuse box. STEP 2: All peripherals like the remotes, antenna, shock sensor....these should go in a small box that you'll keep in the car so you have these items at hand during installation. STEP 3: Connect all the plugs to the brain, cut off the ones you won't use (but leave a few inches of wire for future upgrades), and make your system into one cohesive thing, with all your desired wires coming out of one end. Take whatever wires will be going to one specific location, and dress them together. For example, you know that the lock and unlock wires will be going to pretty much the same place. I like to twist them together with my drill chuck; others prefer wrapping them with black tape. Anyway........ The goal here is to do as much as you possibly can at the bench, and and leave as little as possible inside the car. Your prep should allow you to do the following: Jump into car, loosely put brain where it's going to go. Maybe just jam it in there, maybe hang it loosely with one zip tie. Don't fully tie it in yet; you may need to drop it down again to correct potential errors. You should be able to immediately grab a bundle of wires you've already pre-dressed to be together, run them to their appropriate location, RE-TEST the wires you found, connect the wire, and tape it. Really that should be it, just run wire, retest, connect, insulate, and on to the next. ABOUT THAT SATELLITE RELAY PACK: I hate those things. Adds installation time, and makes it hard to keep the system neat. You'll have a decision to make here: You can choose to Velcro or double-stick tape or zip-tie the relay harness to the main brain, making it into one single system to install. Or, tape any necessary other wires along the ribbon cable, and then you'll have two separate things to mount. I suggest doing a google image search, and/or look closely at any used DEI remote starters for sale on eBay. The used systems will already have been "prepped" before, and you can see how another installer did it. Just some examples...... http://www.titantalk.com/forums/titan-parts-accessories/89405-viper-5701-help-remote-start-security.html In this picture, you can see that someone just jumped into the car and started hooking up wires. Not only does this job look horrendous, but the person is probably spending hours and hours crouched under the dash unnecessarily. http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?31150-FS-Python-Remote-start!-Installed-your-garage! This system has a little more tape than I would use, and the installer chose to have two bundles of wire coming out instead of just one, but you'll see how the wires have been routed so they pretty much come out on one end. http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=487929&page=99&fpart=2 This prep is from a very experienced installer; I know him. Note the wires spun in the drill. http://www.d-series.org/forums/audio-electronics/96234-keyless-entry-installation-basics-lots-pics.html Many installers like to screw the brain to their workbench. You could also put it in a bench vise. Either way, this site offers a full pictorial of bench prep.

Man, you guys are the cats ass !! I mean that in a good way. Well, I went to work today, and printed out the wiring diagrams from Mitchell-on-Demand for my car. The ones I needed anyway. Grabbed my Underhood work light, DVOM, Snap-On butane soldering gun, solder, flux, Power Probe, cutters, strippers, drill chuck for my small Dewalt impact gun, and shrink wrap tubing. When I get home, it's off to the garage to start testing wires and mapping out this install. I'm a bit OCD when it comes to installing anything with wires. It once took me 3 days to wire up a 20 foot trailer, but the company I worked for back then has never had a problem with the trailer lights going out in the middle of the night while hauling a critical load to the job site. I don't believe in scotch locks or wire taps. They just invite corrosion and poor contacts. Everything I do is soldered and covered with shrink wrap. It's just the only way to do it right. Once again, thanks for every suggestion you guys have given me. It hasn't gone up-noticed.