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capping maximum input voltage


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oldspark 
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Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: August 06, 2013 at 12:31 PM / IP Logged  
You'll need a buck-boost (one that can step up and step down).
Maybe DC 3-35 to 1.2-30V Auto Buck-boost Converter?
agemax 
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Joined: July 13, 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 06, 2013 at 12:51 PM / IP Logged  
that looks great thanks. i will look for something similar here in the UK. i will post up what i find.
agemax 
Member - Posts: 46
Member spacespace
Joined: July 13, 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 06, 2013 at 1:07 PM / IP Logged  
i think i found what i need, as links to ebay items cause problems i will just give the item number, it is ebay UK
350769448474
it is very similar to the one you linked to.
oldspark 
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Posted: August 06, 2013 at 7:35 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah - with the typical Pommie price! (And it's larger, byt it does include convenient screw terminals. Good find.)
Keep in mind that that (or these) unit(s) draw 10mA when idling which is more significant drain on a bike battery as compared to a car etc.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,666
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Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 06, 2013 at 7:55 PM / IP Logged  
I really do not see a problem powering this unit at 14 volts. If you do use this power supply, you will need to use a relay to only use the supply when the bike is running. Have it run off the battery when the ignition is off.
oldspark 
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Posted: August 06, 2013 at 8:23 PM / IP Logged  
Ah - but it's for a remote start system....
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,666
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Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 06, 2013 at 8:28 PM / IP Logged  
It will still work, when the Ignition comes on under remote start this will energize the relay and feed power to the unit from the power supply instead of the battery line.
The purpose for this is to not have the extra current from the supply when the bike is at rest.
oldspark 
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Posted: August 06, 2013 at 9:20 PM / IP Logged  
My understanding is that THIS is the remote start system, but maybe I'm confusing with agemax's Durite thread.
Anyhow, agemax can clarify that. I'll bug out.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,666
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
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Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 06, 2013 at 10:16 PM / IP Logged  
I know he is using it as the remote start. If he runs the power supply all the time there will be issues that you have already stated. The relay will power the unit from the battery when the ignition voltage is not present. When the Ignition is powered up, this will then feed the unit with voltage from the power supply, so it does not ever see over 13 volts. It will not matter if it is a remote start condition or if he used the key. Any time the Ignition is on, the unit will get power from the supply.
Power the supply off of ignition, and use a 10,000 or so Mic capacitor to keep power steady at the unit while switching from battery to power supply power.
oldspark 
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Location: Australia
Posted: August 06, 2013 at 11:46 PM / IP Logged  
Yeah. All I'm saying is the 10mA drain when the IGN is not on.
Without the dc-dc converter, a mere Zenor regulator could be used if non-operation below 11V when cranking is tolerable. (11V being its lower voltage spec, but that's not to say it won't work below that - provided lower voltages don't cause "the wrong relays" to trigger!)
I'd think any disconnect relay would be actuated only by the IG Key position (as opposed IGN +12V) to avoid a ride off since agemax didn't see the need for timers etc, so the relay has no impact on dc-dc converter draw.     
Let's hope the dc-dc conv has a low voltage cut-out to protect the battery.
But I will bug out. These are all issues for agemax's design & build. (I did Un-Watch, but I got the notification anyhow.)
PS - the running bike could change the receiver over to a Zenor protection circuit instead of the dc-dc conv (though why bother?), but there are lots of design possibilities.
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