capping maximum input voltage

hi, you are all confusing me a bit now, and i thought i had worked it out lol. the remote system requires a permanent 12v supply otherwise none of it would work. the only way i can do this is to power the unit straight from the battery. all i am concerned with is when the bike is running and at high revs, the regulator/ rectifier charges the battery as you ride but the voltage can reach 14.5v at the battery while charging. will this be enough to damage the remote system and do i need this dc-dc converter to keep the power to the system at a steady 12v? my other concern is the battery rating is 4.5AMP and the dc-dc converter is only rated at 3AMP max so will that be to much for the dc-dc converter? thanks

Good - that's as I thought. By my calcs, assuming you mean a 4.5AH battery and it's in good condition, it will supply 10mA for 90 hours (nearly 4 days) before hitting its 80% SOC (20% discharged) which is the normal limit for a cranking battery for acceptable battery life. But you may want less discharge to ensure cranking - eg, maybe 2 days. The receiver claims an 11-13V supply, hence presumably being prone to damage above 13V. Hence the need/suggestion for a Zener regulator (essentially a voltage limiter), or a dc-dc buck-boost converter for the same >13V protection as well as operation below 11V.   

great, now i think i am with you. so you think i should buy the dc-dc buck-boost i found on ebay and that will do the job? the battery is a brand new Ballistic 8 cell Lithium battery rated at 4.5amp with 275CCA. i dont ride the bike every day so would you suggest either disconnecting the buck boost if the bike is left for more than a few days, or i could simply fit an in line switch to disconnect it from the battery power when not in use? many thanks

No. I think you should buy a suitable module. I don't think you have an understanding of the things required eg, a timer for the remote start, as well as the interlocks that both I and HowieII mentioned. Failing that, I think you should buy a receiver that suits automotive applications. BTW - I erred above. I only considered a 10mA drain - ie, the receiver alone. Include the dc-dc converter's overhead and that doubles to at least 20mA so you can halve my last reply's reserve times.

oldspark wrote: No. I think you should buy a suitable module. I don't think you have an understanding of the things required eg, a timer for the remote start, as well as the interlocks that both I and HowieII mentioned. Failing that, I think you should buy a receiver that suits automotive applications. BTW - I erred above. I only considered a 10mA drain - ie, the receiver alone. Include the dc-dc converter's overhead and that doubles to at least 20mA so you can halve my last reply's reserve times.

i do not understand why you keep saying i should have a timer for the remote start, no ready made kits come with timers? and i have all the nessecary interlocks in place that are required. the system is the same set up as a unit designed for motorcycle use, except they bump the price but because they say it is designed for a motorcycle, whereas it is not, it is just a off the shelf 12v remote system with a wiring diagram to suit a motorcycle. i am fitting exactly the same thing except i am building ny own system rather than buying a premade set up

I doubt that commercial units would have a 10mA draw, let alone 20mA. And they would be using 12V automotive receivers, not "12V" receivers. I'd be surprised if they didn't have a timer solely as a timeout for when the key is not inserted. There are other ways of protecting against drive offs, but a timer is one simple method. Commercial units should also have tilt switches, oil pressure engine stops, etc.

oldspark wrote: I doubt that commercial units would have a 10mA draw, let alone 20mA. And they would be using 12V automotive receivers, not "12V" receivers. I'd be surprised if they didn't have a timer solely as a timeout for when the key is not inserted. There are other ways of protecting against drive offs, but a timer is one simple method. Commercial units should also have tilt switches, oil pressure engine stops, etc.

why would you have a timeout for a key, when a key is not used? if i was using a key then the whole concept of the remote start becomes pointless. what purpose would a tilt switch be used in a remote start application? as far as oil pressure engine stop, no bike i have ever come across has this facility, whether key or remote ignition, in fact i dont think i have ever seen a car with this facility. there is an oil pressure switch which illuminates a light in the dash area, if that comes on you stop!

So I can jump on your bike & ride off? Your bike is on its side & it starts, or I kick it over (maybe because of the steering lock) and it keeps running? There is no oil pressure and - when remote started - it keeps running? Geez, they are really good remote start designs aren't they? Or am I yet again ahead of my time wrt to industrial/commercial/any design?

oldspark wrote: So I can jump on your bike & ride off? Your bike is on its side & it starts, or I kick it over (maybe because of the steering lock) and it keeps running? There is no oil pressure and - when remote started - it keeps running? Geez, they are really good remote start designs aren't they? Or am I yet again ahead of my time wrt to industrial/commercial/any design?

no, you cant just jump on my bike and ride off, unless you steal my remote fob to start the bike.why would it start if it is on its side? (magic) NO bike specific remote start system on the market has an oil pressure fail safe. you are obviously not way ahead of your time with design, and way behind with motorcycle electrics.(if in fact you have any knowledge of motorcycle electrics at all!) i think i will leave this forum and find another that knows what they are talking about when relating to motorcycles. when i first saw this site i thought with such a massive membership there would have been quite a few people on here who knew about motorcycle electrics..how wrong i was.

All "Ready Made" remote start units have timers. None of them are designed to replace a key.