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the12volt`s installbay - Mobile Electronics Forums the12volt's install bay / Car Security and Convenience - Pictorials

Subject Topic: 2000-2003 ford taurus remote start w/keyless pictorial

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kreg357
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Posted: October 08, 2013 at 7:02 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote kreg357

This is a Pictorial on a remote start with keyless entry install for a 2001 Ford Taurus sedan. This vehicle had the 3.0L
V-6 engine, Factory Remote Keyless Entry and no alarm. Vehicles from 2000 - 2003 ( including the Mercury Sable )
should be similar.

These cars are equipped with Fords' PATS3 engine immobilizer system. There are many good data style bypass
modules available. Some of the more popular bypass modules for DIYers are the Fortin Key-OverRide-All, it's cousin
from Directed the PKALL and from iDatalink, the ADS TBSL KO and ADS TBSL TI. All of these modules are pre-loaded
and ready to go right out of the box. However, all require two working, non-clone, keys for vehicle programming.

Install on this vehicle is very straight forward and yields no surprises. For this vehicle an Ultra Start U1272 remote
start w/keyless entry and an ADS TBSL KO bypass module was used.   Typical street price for these units run about
$90. Any quality remote starter can be used, preferably one with an extra, selectable, ignition output for this vehicles
Accessory2 wire. The U1272 is capable of D2D mode communication with the ADS TBSL KO bypass module which
eliminates the 3 wire connections between them.

Aside from the standard tools used in 12 Volt installations, an 8mm socket and possibly a 7mm deep socket are needed.

Disassembly :

Using the 8mm socket, remove the two bolts shown below at the bottom of the drivers side lower dash panel, then
pull the panel straight away from the dash. There are two plastic clips along the top edge.


posted_image



While not mandatory, for easier access ( and less lost skin ) remove the cross brace by removing the two 8mm bolts
indicated below.


posted_image



There is no need to remove the steering column covers, as all of the necessary wires are now exposed. If you are
using a key-in-the-box style universal bypass module, removing the steering column cover is somewhat unique and
detailed at the Bulldog Security WEB site : http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/bdnew/vehiclewiringdiagrams.aspx

Use a non-marring trim tool to pop out the Headlight Switch assy and the Trunk Release Switch panel.

Wiring :

The Brake wire is found at the brake switch connector at the top of the brake pedal. Here is a picture.


posted_image


The Parking Light wire is shown below in this picture of the back of the headlight switch.


posted_image


The door lock wires can be found at the GEM module, which is on the inner firewall to the left of the steering column
and shown in the photo below. ( Lock wires can also be found in the Driver Kick Panel.)


posted_image


For alarm system installs, the four door trigger wires are also found in the same White 26 Pin plug.

The Trunk Release wire is pictured below. Please note that vehicles without Factory RKE will have a Gray/Red (+)
trunk release wire. ( Sorry for the washed out photo. )


posted_image


Here is a photo of the ignition wires. This connector can be removed using a 7mm deep socket on it's center
bolt for easier wire connections.


posted_image


This is a close-up picture of the Transponder connector with the wires marked ( as per the iDatalink install guide ).
Also shown is the Horn wire.


posted_image


For the most reliable engine remote start operation Tach Mode is recommended.   Here is a photo of a good Tach wire
found at the coil pack.



posted_image

Other Tach wire locations are the F.I.'s and the PCM, Tan/Yellow, Pin 48. Not shown is the firewall pass thru for the
Tach wire & Hood Pin and a Chassis Ground point.    As always, use a Digital Multi Meter to locate & verify wires and
solder all connections.



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racerjames76
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Posted: October 11, 2013 at 7:38 AM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote racerjames76

Looks good Kreg. I have never seen anyone take the time to remove that ignition connector properly though. We have a basket full of broken ones. Just snip off one side of the legs that are snapped in, and grab the end and break off the other side. Really serves no purpose. posted_image
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kreg357
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Posted: October 11, 2013 at 8:57 AM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote kreg357

I agree! posted_image
Those ignition connector covers are a pain. I have seen a bunch either missing or broken. The older the plastic gets, the harder and more brittle the legs become. The only purpose I see they have is to gently guide the wires away from the steering column. This bunches them together and prevents interference with the tilt wheel. On this car, it was intact so I spent the extra time to remove & replace it. Trying to keep everything looking factory for a stealthy install.
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matt1981m
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Posted: October 31, 2013 at 5:08 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote matt1981m

Dude you %++%*$+#(%*& rock!!! Thanks for doing all the hard work for me! I will be installing a Viper 3203v/DB-ALL in a 2003 Taurus with ease because of your post. This isn't my first alarm install by any means, but the hard part is over! Thanks again for having such a through post!
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kreg357
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Posted: October 31, 2013 at 7:54 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote kreg357

Glad to help.   

Two things to point out.  Make sure the DB-ALL is flashed with the 401.FORD1 v2.06 firmware and the 2003 Taurus will have a different style transponder connector, with different RX and TX wire colors, in the same general location.  Here are the wire colors :

TX is Brown/Yellow @ Pin 4 
RX is Gray/Red @ Pin 3


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matt1981m
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Posted: November 09, 2013 at 12:02 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote matt1981m

The DB-ALL has been flashed to the correct 401.FORD1 v2.06 firmware. Thanks for the info on the transponder wires!! I was incorrect on the model I would be installing. I said I would be installing a Responder LE 3203, but it is actually a Responder LE 5701. I have installed just under 20 alarm systems in the past, but unfortunately the last one was a 564t Hornet, and that was installed back in 2004. I went to go install it yesterday, and had a very big mess to clean up before I could even think of installing the system. The starter wire had 1.5 inches of insulation removed...no electrical tape or anything covering it. Of course it had several black marks where oxidation has occurred where it has been grounded. There was an old auto start system with a 555U haphazardly installed, with half of the starter relay wires either loosely wrapped around their target wire, or using scotchloks. I would never, ever let scotchloks near ignition wires, let alone the 14-18AWG ones they used. Solder, solder, solder. There is NO other way to do the work in my book. Needless to say, I spent all day removing the old system completely, fixing their mistakes, and prepping for the installation of the new system. After that B.S., I want to ensure the rest is smooth sailing. After all of the issues I decided to post to ensure all of my selections were correct for the remote start harness connections. I know I have all of the other connections for the other harnesses correctly made. Thanks for all your help!!

Heavy gauge remote start, (H3) 10-pin connector
1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT
RED/LT GRN

2 RED/WHITE (30A) FUSED IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY INPUT 87
LT GRN/PURPLE

3 ORANGE ACCESSORY OUTPUT
GREY/YELLOW

4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
RED/LT BLUE

5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF THE STARTER KILL WIRE)
RED/LT BLUE (CLOSER TO IGNITION WITH CUT BETWEEN IT AND H3.4)

6 RED (+) FUSED (30A) IGNITION 1 INPUT
LT GRN/PURPLE

7 PINK/WHITE (+) IGNITION 2 / FLEX RELAY OUTPUT
BLACK/GRN

8 PINK/BLACK FLEX RELAY INPUT 87A key side (if required) of FLEX RELAY
N/A

9 RED/BLACK FUSED (30A) ACCESSORY/STARTER INPUT
LT GRN/PURPLE
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kreg357
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Posted: November 09, 2013 at 3:46 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote kreg357

Sometimes you find crazy things done under the dash.  Glad you corrected it before it became a major problem.  Looking at the bright side, you now have another working ignition key ( from inside the 555U ). 

Yes, looks good on the H3 heavy gauge wire harness.  Only one thing to check is the cars Black/Green ignition wire.  If it tests as an Accessory type wire, then program the Viper, Menu3, Item 8 to Option 2. 


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matt1981m
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Posted: November 09, 2013 at 4:01 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote matt1981m

I missed that about the 555U... Knew it used one, just forgot! Do I need a bitwriter to program that? Also, I am now a little confused on the DB-ALL wiring. Some references say that for this vehicle I don't need to connect the power inputs on H14 (red, black), or on H10 the ignition input (pink) or the GWR status input (blue/white), and other sources say to.
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kreg357
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Posted: November 09, 2013 at 4:24 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote kreg357

No, Viper Menu 3 is accessible with the remotes.

On the DB-ALL. if you are going in D2D mode ( using the D2D harness between the Viper and the DB-ALL ), then all of the dashed Blue wires are not required.  They are handled by the D2D harness.  The H10 Pink Ignition wire is a solid Black line and needs to be hardwired.


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matt1981m
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Posted: November 09, 2013 at 7:09 PM - IP Logged
Link to Post  Post Reply Quote matt1981m

All installed, but having problems pairing the remotes. The main unit is getting power and is passing power to the DB-ALL but the valet switch is not working. It does not allow the unit to go into pairing mode. The LED on the antenna/valet switch does not light up at all. I checked all of the connections, and all are good. What should I check next?
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