power distribution

Yep, I definitely need to get one of those. It's like strapping 40 Surefire lights to the front end..."Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

Yep. One thing I noticed right away: Unlike the single HID pencil beam (or the headlights themselves) the "optimum" aiming point is quite distinct. I'll try to explain: On that same dark stretch of road, when I am adjusting the VERTICAL alignment of the pencil beam, I am trying to decide where I want the most amount of light. If it's a little low...I get a huge, brilliant white "pool" of light twenty feet in front of the grille. If it's a little high...I get nothing on the ground at all; it's all in the trees some number of feet above the road 100 yds. away! So it's a slight compromise. The beam is so focussed, and reaches so far, that it is silly to have it exactly parallel to the road surface. Therefore I have to bend it downward just a little, so that it DOES hit the road, but maybe...150 FEET in the distance. So that's what I have, and it's good. I followed the exact same process with the paired Halogens, except that they cannot project nearly as far. Therefore they hit the road...perhaps...75 feet in front. These are very rough estimates, but you get the idea. With the LED light bar it's difficult to find that optimum aiming threshold. I may be 'way off base, but it seems like the light throw is very finite; out to about 50 feet it's awesome...after which it seems to just fizzle. The result is that if I don't have the focal point hitting the road 25 to 30 feet in front...it/they just disappear. Yes - there is some wide-angle spillage from the 8+8, but the bright spot is gone (until I drive up fairly close to something, that is) Mind you, this is only my first impression, and I have not driven with them on for more than two minutes. Perhaps my impression will change as/when I put some more miles on them on thinly-travelled back roads! Here in the near-city there is ALWAYS some schmuck approaching -- or upon whom I am gaining -- even at 4:00 in the friggin' morning!

Good news! The auto-reset CB's do fit into the little fuse block!

Not mine, they don't.... remember, I'm using the Blue Sea fuseblock in my build. :) I am curious how these behave, though- do they thermally cycle, is there a time delay, or does power have to be removed entirely from the circuit before they reset?"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

No power removal, hence 'auto reset'. Thermal delay based on severity (i2t).

"Auto reset" doesn't imply a thing about power removal. I know there are circuit breakers used in marine applications which reset once the supply is removed (ie: turn off the switch for the light, and turn it on again). They're called "auto reset" breakers. In this case, "auto reset" meaning you don't have to go find the damn thing and push a button on it."Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"

* * Note **  NON-EXPERT speaking... [:)]

As I understand it, there are three types of auto CB's; Type 1, 2 & 3. 

Type 1 is push a button to reset

Type 2 is power cycle to reset

Type 3 is "auto" reset after cool-down (no power cycle, no button) This is the type I purchased.

oops - please remove the word "auto" in the first full sentence.

Also I missed the second colon in my smiley.  (Geez - it'll be great to be able to edit!) [:D:]

Ok burntkat, we'll put that down to jargon. IME the power cycle types are called PORs (POR CBs etc) since they are not auto recovery reset nor self recovering. The PORs essentially need manual intervention - ie, the power recycle (whether programmed or timed or by solar array or manual trigger etc). And POR types are generally not used for automotive etc applications - except perhaps for fridges and similar (where normally CBs are not recommended but may be desirable to avoid fuse replacement cost or labor).

What does the "POR" stand for, please? And...I would be keen to learn whether I have offered a correct assessment re: the three types of automotive CB's, please Sirs. [:thumbup:]