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offroad lighting wiring sanity check


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nhurto 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2014
Posted: January 02, 2014 at 5:54 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks to all the great posts here I've learned a lot about wiring a 12v system and think I'm at the end of my planning phase. Before I burn my rig to the ground, I'm looking for some advice and a sanity check on my game plan. I'm using usmcdoc14's writeup on JKOwners.Com as my wiring bible so assume I will be following the proper gauge, connection methods, etc.
The Sanity Check
This is going on my 99 Jeep Cherokee. My plan is to add a dual battery setup using the Blue Sea ACR setup to allow for battery isolation and combination with an in-cabin control. I'm connecting everything via 2 gauge welding cable. I'm going to run a custom switch panel with a relay/fuse assembly under the hood (or multiple boxes inside and outside of the cabin to minimize cable runs if that makes more sense).
offroad lighting wiring sanity check - Last Post -- posted image.
So my questions for the overall plan are:
  • Does this look like a good plan?
  • What am I missing?
  • Have I future proofed the install enough?
The Knowledge Gaps
Most of the switches are straight forward SPST turning the accessory on/off. The couple of exceptions which I'm looking for input are:
  • Winch - I want this to energize the winch and bridge a jumper on the fuse box which activates the XJ's high idle (raises the idle to 1000-1200 RPM)
  • Rear lights - This is a SPDT which I want to either turn them on with the ignition off, have them come on with the reverse lights, or be disabled completely
  • Stereo headunit - on automatically with the ignition or bypass the ignition and just turn on
Any other comments or advice welcomed. I thought I knew a lot about wiring until I started doing research on this so I'm looking to learn.
nhurto 
Member - Posts: 2
Member spacespace
Joined: January 02, 2014
Posted: January 02, 2014 at 5:56 PM / IP Logged  
Forgot the info on my rig: 1999 Jeep Cherokee (XJ)
powerslave 
Copper - Posts: 126
Copper spacespace
Joined: April 23, 2002
Location: United States
Posted: January 13, 2014 at 12:59 AM / IP Logged  
Simply run the power wire you use to supply power to the winch (when switched), to the high-idle as specified in the link you posted. Use a diode in the power wire to the high idle you added, so when high idle is on because it's needed, the winch isn't also powered.
Can run a battery power from a switch to the reverse light, easy, just put a diode in so the rear lights don't supply power to the reverse lights when you go into reverse.
Radio? Well, your radio has a momentary push power button, so, unless it is a mechanical switch that you can leave ON, you can't have it come on with ignition. If you want to turn it on without a key, you need to wire the IGN power lead at the radio, to a Battery + lead.   If you still want the ignition power to stay stock, then you need to splice a diodes into the IGN lead and B+ to the radio, so your IGN isn't always powered by the B+ wire you spliced in, and the IGN won't go back to the battery.
On the diode (o-->|--o), the stripe indicates flow of current, so the stripe will face toward the device/splice point you are sending power to, so power doesn't flow BACK through the diode when power is there from another source.
(B+)------o-->|------o\
(IGN SW)--o-->|---o/----RADIO
WINCH SWITCH------o-->|--o(WINCH)
(A12)---o--|<--o----------------/
You can figure out the lighting deal...
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: January 13, 2014 at 6:38 AM / IP Logged  
IMO that Blue Sea is very expensive as a battery isolator (ie, $260).
Do you have a charge light - ie, an alternator with a D+ or L terminal?
If so, have you considered a relay controlled by that circuit - ie, when D+ or L goes to +12V (ie, the alternator is charging) it turns on a relay that interconnects the 2 (or more aux) batteries.
If it's a big relay to switch (say) 100A or more, a smaller "buffer" relay or circuit (transistor or MOSFET etc) may be needed between D+/L and the isolating relay(s).
I (and others) have referred to such an isolator as the UIBI (google UIBI or "oldspark uibi").
It avoids many complications of voltage sensing aka "smart" battery isolators (different voltage thresholds; essential switching delays; standby current); is easy to augment (manual connection or override) and should cost the same as the voltage-sensing isolator's relay but without the cost of its control circuitry.   
And FYI - I use automotive fuse & relay boxes (these days with micro-blade fuses and micro relays etc) since IMO they are more robust than aftermarkets which seem brittle else prone to fatigue and/else expensive.

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