viper 5204 on 03 sierra

Hello all, I am looking to install a Viper 5204 with an idatalink ADS-AL(DL)-GM1 “programmed” bypass module on my 2003 GMC Sierra 4x4. Originally I thought I’d have a Viper dealer install the units but after I found out that they will typically use 3M squeeze tap connectors and charge 300 bucks (plus) to boot, I realized that with a little research I could do this myself (even though I know it voids the warranty). We’ll, after a “ton” of research I have come up with the following install reference sheet and am looking for anyone familiar with these types of installs to comment if I’m on the right track. My plan is to go W2W (have read that D2D can be problematic for older truck installs) and solder most of the connections on a bench before actually installing in the vehicle but I still have a few questions that I am hoping can be answered on this thread. 1.) Want to maintain all OEM functionality (i.e. unlock – 1 chirp of horn, unlock – 2 chirps of horn, and also OEM alarm functionality, etc.) so do I need to connect H 2/24 (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT and the B 10/4 (Disarm Only) wires where should the connections be made. 2.) How should I connect H 3/3 (+) Accessory Output) so that I can control the cabin heater? From what I’ve read, I just connect to the WHITE/ red accessory wire on the ignition harness but I’m still not sure how that would operate the heater. 3.) What exactly does H 2/16 (Brake Shutdown) do? 4.) From research on a similar install, the installer connected H 2/9 “(-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT” to the GWR (-) output on the bypass module – not sure if this is correct. 5.) There are a number of “FLEX RELAY’s” mentioned under the “Viper Wire Name” – not sure if these are specific to the Viper Brain or already in the vehicle or if I should purchase where applicable. 6.) Any recommendations on where to mount the brain and bypass units? – there does not appear to be a lot of space under the dash. INTEND TO WIRE AS FOLLOWS: Main Harness 6 Pin H 1/1     Red-(+)12VDC CONSTANT INPUT - Ignition Switch Harness - Red - 12 Volt Constant      H 1/2     Black-(-)CHASSIS GROUND Suitable Ground H 1/3     Brown - (+)SIREN OUTPUT     Engine Compartment H 1/4     WHITE/ Brown - PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay -Not Used H 1/5     White -PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT - Pin B2Brown Plug @ BCM - Gray/BLK Parking Lights (-) H 1/6     Orange-(-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT - Not Used Door Harness 3 Pin H 3/1     Blue-(-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT - On idatalink Black 10 pin plug the Blue/Black wire goes to the Blue wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector. H 3/2     Empty H 3/3     Green-(-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT - On idatalink Black 10 pin plug the GREEN/ Black wire goes to the Green wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector. Aux Harness 24 Pin H 2/1     Pink/White (-)200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/2     BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety Input - Suitable ground H 2/3     Blue/White (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/4     GREEN/ Black (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT - Idatalink Bypass?? H 2/5     RED / White (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/6     Green (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O) - LIGHT BLUE PLUG at the BCM, PINS B4 and B5 H 2/7     BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT - BCM – Black Plug – Pin E H 2/8     BROWN / Black (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT - Steering Column (BLACK / YELLOW to Black Wire) H 2/9     Dark Blue (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT - Connect to idatalink Bypass H 2/10     Pink (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/11     WHITE/ Black (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/12     Violet (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT - Not Used H 2/13     WHITE/ Violet (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/14     Violet/Black (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/15     ORANGE / Black (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/16     Brown (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT - At Brake Pedal H 2/17     Grey (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC or NO) - At Hood Pin H 2/18     Violet / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT - Ignition Switch Harness H 2/19     Blue (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR (N/O) - Not used H 2/20     Grey/Black (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT - Not Used H 2/21     WHITE/ Blue (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT - Not Used H 2/22     Orange (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/23     Violet/White TACHOMETER INPUT - @ PCM PIN # 36 H 2/24     GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT - ??? Remote Start 10 Pin H 10/1     Pink (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT - Ignition Switch Harness - Pink H 10/2     RED / White (87) FLEX RELAY (+) 12V INPUT (30A Fused) - Ignition Switch Harness - Red H 10/3     Orange (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT - Ignition Switch Harness -     WHITE/ Red ??? H 10/4     Violet (+) STARTER OUTPUT (Car Side of Starter Kill) - Ignition Switch Harness - Yellow (+) Car Side H 10/5     Green (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF STARTER KILL) - Ignition Switch Harness - Yellow (+) Key Side H 10/6     Red IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) - Ignition Switch Harness - Red H 10/7     Pink/White (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT - car side of ign, acc or starter wire) - Ignition Switch Harness - White (+) H 10/8     Pink/Black (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT - (car side of ignition wire) - Not Used H 10/9     RED / Black ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) - Ignition Switch Harness - Red H 10/10     NC Empty Bypass Harness 4 Pin B 4/1     Blue/White GWR (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - H 2/9 B 4/2     Empty B 4/3     Black GROUND - Suitable Ground B 4/4     Red 12 v (+) - Ignition Switch Harness - Red (+) - 12 VOLT Constant Bypass Harness 10 Pin B 10/1     GREEN/ Black LOCK/ARM (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - On idatalink (Black) 10 pin plug the GREEN/ Black wire goes to the Green wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector B 10/2     Blue/Black UNLOCK/DISARM (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - On idatalink (Black) 10 pin plug the Blue/Black wire goes to the Blue wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector B 10/3     RED / White TRUNK (-) INPUT - Not Used B 10/4     Brown DISARM ONLY - Viper Brain     - The brown wire goes to your lt. GREEN/ black - FASD (Factory Alarm Shutdown Disarm) wire H2/4 B 10/5     Purple / YELLOW LEFT SLIDING DOOR - Not Used B 10/6     PURPLE / Black RIGHT SLIDING DOOR - Not Used B 10/7     White - Not Used B 10/8     BLACK/ White - Not Used B 10/9     Green - Not Used B 10/10     PURPLE / White TACH OUTPUT - The PURPLE / white goes to your violet/white tach wire on Viper H 2/23 Bypass Harness 3 Pin B 3/1     Yellow/Black DOOR STATUS (-) Output - Viper Brain (Optional) B 3/2     Yellow/Red TRUNK STATUS (-) Output - Not Used B 3/3     Yellow - Not Used Bypass Harness 7 Pin B 7/2     BROWN / Yellow - Not Used B 7/3     ORANGE / Black - Not Used B 7/4     ORANGE / White - Not Used B 7/5     Orange     Data - OBDII #2 B 7/6     Pink/Black - Not Used B 7/7     Pink IGNITION (+) INPUT - Viper Brain Ignition (+) Output - The Pink input wire from the bypass will connect to the Ignition 1 Output wire on Viper (H10/1)wire. I believe that the above applies to both the Viper 5204 & 5704 as well as GMC Sierra's 2003 - 2006 so if anyone has any experience with any of those platforms please feel free to comment That’s it for now – really appreciate any and all responses. Thanks in advanceRoadGlide2459

Need to make a correction on the preceding post: Question 2 should read: 2.) How should I connect H 10/3 (+) Accessory Output) so that I can control the cabin heater? From what I’ve read, I just connect to the WHITE/ red accessory wire on the ignition harness but I’m still not sure how that would operate the heater. I inadvertently indicated H3/3 Apologize for the confusionRoadGlide2459

As you can see, the professional installer earns his fee.  There is a bunch to know with an install like this and experience is

very valuable.

I can answer some of your questions by referring you to this Pictorial on a similar vehicle using the same type GM1 bypass

module.  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~133000~PN~1  Here is a link to another install on an earlier model GM pick-up.  This one covers the ignition wires with a DEI R/S ( no StarterKill ) with all the wires powered using the Flex relay and an external relay.  Notice that GM ignition wire colors are consistent. https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~135786~PN~1

As you mentioned, W2W is more work but extremely reliable.   The ADS DL GM1 supplies some outputs that you are not using.

As mentioned in the Yukon Pictorial, the bypass module's Tach output can be hit or miss.  You show going to the trucks PCMbut it would be easier to pull the instrument panel and use the White Tach wire found in that connector, keeping that wire insidethe truck.  The other bypass output is the Door Status output.  While it only supplies the status of the front doors, it will savesome time by using it and then adding the rear doors directly from the truck ( if you have a 4 door ) with diode isolation.

The Brake Pedal Shutdown is a necessary connection.  It turns off the remote start and allows "key take over".

H2/18 is not used.

Don't think there is a WHITE/ Red Accessory wire.

Yes, H2/9 (-) Status Output is the same as Ground When Running, GWR, 3rd Ignition, etc.  It does connect to the bypass module

as you show in your list.

Set the Vipers Parking Light Jumper/Fuse to (-) during bench prep.

The Vipers default programming for the internal Flex Relay is Ignition2, which is correct for the Pink/White output connection to

the trucks' White Ignition2 wire.

Soldering is fun!

As you can see, the professional installer earns his fee. There is a bunch to know with an install like this and experience is very valuable. -Yes, I agree – am comfortable with 12V wiring although my forte is more mechanical engineering. I wrestled with going the installer route, but virtually everyone I talked to indicated they would use 3M squeeze tap connectors and that caused me to hesitate – especially since I have less than 100K miles on this truck, it still looks like new and I plan on keeping it for quite some time. Thought about pulling the instrument cluster for the TACH wire, but I am one of the fortunate few who has never had a problem with the servo motors back there so I didn’t want to tempt fate by removing it. I still may go that route as I don’t like excess wire running through the engine compartment. H2/18 is not used. - If I ultimately chose to use an external relay, should I wire into H 10/4 (+) Starter Output (Car Side of Starter Kill). Don't think there is a WHITE/ Red Accessory wire. – My mistake – after further review I think it is Orange (as indicated in the pictorial)(https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp~TID~135786~PN~1). Set the Vipers Parking Light Jumper/Fuse to (-) during bench prep. - Just curious - Can I program the Viper on the bench by supplying 12 volts and ground to the appropriate leads The Vipers default programming for the internal Flex Relay is Ignition2, which is correct for the Pink/White output connection to the trucks' White Ignition2 wire. - Should I just cut the Pink/White wire and hook up H 10/7 to the car side and insulate the key side. I plan on bench wiring everything I can this weekend and where possible running the appropriate harness’s to the dash. At this point it looks like I will be mounting the units underneath the rear bench seat on the trans tunnel . There appears to be enough room there and I won’t lose what little storage there is on either side of the tunnel – if you have an alternative suggestion, I’m all ears. Again – thank you for your response. Also, I have an Excel spreadsheet in a matrixed format that has more info than what I originally posted (forum rules prevented me from posting it – understand why, but nonetheless I wish I could make it available as I think it would help a lot of DIYer’s lay out their installation – would be happy to forward to your email if you want. -Rick RoadGlide2459

I agree with your decision to DIY and solder everything.   It is a great learning experience and will pay big dividends through

enhanced reliability.  

Here is the main ignition wire connections.  The extra relay is a Bosch automotive style 30/40 Amp SPDT relay.  There is plenty

of room under the dash for the Viper and bypass module.  The bench prepped unit shown in the Yukon Pictorial fit nicely to the left side of the steering column, up high and against the firewall.  I like to keep the heavy gauge wires as short as possibleand extend the thin gauge wires if necessary to reach their connection points.

H3/1 PINK (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT    pink  +  ignition harness

H3/2 RED / WHITE (87) FLEX RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)          red (40A)   +    ignition harness *H3/3 ORANGE (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT     orange  +  ignition harness H3/4 VIOLET (+) STARTER OUTPUT (CAR SIDE)     yellow  +  ignition harness  \H3/5 GREEN (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE)           yellow  +  ignition harness  /  cut vehicle Starter wireH3/6 RED IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)       red (40A)   +    ignition harness *H3/7 PINK/WHITE (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT    ***Set to IGN2           white  +  ignition harness H3/8 PINK/BLACK (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT             not used H3/9 RED / BLACK ACC/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED)            red (40A)   +    ignition harness *H3/10 NC No Connection

Extra 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for Brown ACC2 wire :

Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/22  ORANGE  (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT  Relay Pin 86 and 87 to Sierra  Red (+12V constant) @  ignition harness through 30 Amp fuseRelay Pin 30 to Sierra Brown ACC2 wire @ ignition harnessRelay Pin 87a not used

* There should be two +12V constant wires in the main ignition harness.  They might be both Red or one Red and the other

RED / White.  Split the Vipers load between them.

Yes, you can program the Viper on the bench by connecting the H1 Red and H1 Black to a +12V power source.  Using the remotes

will require connecting the antenna and using the H3 Pink and H2 Green wires.  I use a BitWriter, so can't help too much with the actual procedure doing it with remotes.  Here is a neat "out of vehicle" R/S video posted by a senior forum member : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=135651&KW=smokeman1

Soldering is fun!

Hi Kregg, I just want to reiterate my thanks for your help. Just to be sure, and certainly not trying to be to analytical (or subtract the last 6 letters from analytical) am confused re: H3 Pink and H2 Green wires From my initial post are you referring to H 10/1 Pink as there is not a Pink wire on the H3 harness. Also, from my initial post the only green wires are H 3/3 Green-(-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT and H 2/6 Green (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O) so am not sure what you are referencing when you say H3 Pink and H2 Green. In any case have a good evening. Thanks again. -Rick RoadGlide2459

Sorry for the confusion.   I kinda ignored your connector labeling and went from memory.

Your connector identification is slightly different than mine.  I am going by what I consider the more commonly used terminology

as found in most Directed install guides.  Here is the link to the 5204 install guide I am using : https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=1150

Starting on Page 6 are the connector listings.  The heavy gauge ignition wire connector is usually called H3 and in this case

Ignition 1 is the Pink wire at H3/1.   This wire is not only an output but is also used by the Viper as an input for a couple ofpurposes.  One is to enter into programming mode, as detailed on Page 11, Step 2.  The Door Trigger connection ( either the(-) H2/6 Green wire or (+) H2/12 Violet wire ) is used at Step 1.  Those were the wires I was referring to in my previous post.  I usedthe same connector ID method on my ignition wire post, too.

Soldering is fun!

Hi Kregg, Have modified my original wiring schematic to reflect nomenclature as per the 5704 manual as well as the suggestions you made. It is as follows: Main Harness 6 Pin H 1/1     Red-(+) 12VDC CONSTANT INPUT - Ignition Switch Harness - Red - 12 Volt Constant      H 1/2     Black-(-) CHASSIS GROUND - Suitable Ground H 1/3     Brown - (+) SIREN OUTPUT - Engine Compartment H 1/4     WHITE/ Brown - PARKING LIGHT ISOLATION WIRE - PIN 87a of onboard relay -Not Used H 1/5     White -PARKING LIGHT OUTPUT - Pin B2 Brown Plug @ BCM - Gray/BLK Parking Lights (-) H 1/6     Orange-(-) 500mA GROUND WHEN ARMED OUTPUT - Not Used Door Harness 3 Pin 1     Blue-(-) 500mA UNLOCK OUTPUT - On idatalink Black 10 pin plug the Blue/Black wire goes to the Blue wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector. 2     Empty 3     Green-(-) 500mA LOCK OUTPUT - On idatalink Black 10 pin plug the GREEN/ Black wire goes to the Green wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector. H2 Harness - 24 Pin H 2/1     Pink/White (-)200mA IGNITION/FLEX RELAY CONTROL OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/2     BLACK/ White (-) Neutral Safety Input - Suitable ground H 2/3     Blue/White (-) 200mA 2ND STATUS /REAR DEFOGGER OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/4     GREEN/ Black (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT - Idatalink Bypass (DISARM ONLY INPUT) H 2/5     RED / White (-) 200mA TRUNK RELEASE OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/6     Green (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT (N/C* OR N/O) - LIGHT BLUE PLUG at the BCM, PINS B4 and B5 H 2/7     BLACK / YELLOW (-) 200mA DOME LIGHT SUPERVISION OUTPUT - BCM – Black Plug – Pin E H 2/8     BROWN / Black (-) 200mA HORN HONK OUTPUT - Steering Column (BLACK / YELLOW to Black Wire) H 2/9     Dark Blue (-) 200mA STATUS OUTPUT - Connect to idatalink Bypass GWR H 2/10     Pink (-) 200mA IGNITION 1 OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/11     WHITE/ Black (-) 200mA AUX 3 OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/12     Violet (+) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT - Not Used H 2/13     WHITE/ Violet (-) 200mA AUX 1 OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/14     Violet/Black (-) 200mA AUX 2 OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/15     ORANGE / Black (-) 200mA AUX 4 OUTPUT - Not Used H 2/16     Brown (+) BRAKE SHUTDOWN INPUT - At Brake Pedal H 2/17     Grey (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC or NO) - At Hood Pin H 2/18     Violet / YELLOW (-) 200mA STARTER OUTPUT – Not Used H 2/19     Blue (-) TRUNK PIN/ INSTANT TRIGGER INPUT (N/C OR (N/O) - Not used H 2/20     Grey/Black (-) DIESEL WAIT TO START INPUT - Not Used H 2/21     WHITE/ Blue (-) REMOTE START/ TURBO TIMER ACTIVATION INPUT - Not Used H 2/22     Orange (-) 200mA ACCESSORY OUTPUT – 30/40 AMP SPDT relay for Brown GMC Acc wire (see note 1 below) H 2/23     Violet/White TACHOMETER INPUT - @ PCM PIN # 36 H 2/24     GREEN / WHITE (-) 200mA OEM ALARM ARM OUTPUT - ??? Remote Start (H 3) 10 Pin H 3/1     Pink (+) IGNITION 1 INPUT/OUTPUT - Ignition Switch Harness - Pink H 3/2     RED / White (87) FLEX RELAY (+) 12V INPUT (30A Fused) - Ignition Switch Harness - Red H 3/3     Orange (+) ACCESSORY OUTPUT - Ignition Switch Harness -     Orange H 3/4     Violet (+) STARTER OUTPUT (Car Side of Starter Kill) - Ignition Switch Harness - Yellow (+) Car Side (cut starter wire) H 3/5     Green (+) STARTER INPUT (KEY SIDE OF STARTER KILL) - Ignition Switch Harness - Yellow (+) Key Side (cut starter wire) H 3/6     Red IGNITION 1 +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) - Ignition Switch Harness - Red H 3/7     Pink/White (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT – (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) - Ignition Switch Harness - White (+) Must Be Connected as IGNITION 2 for Remote Starting H 3/8     Pink/Black (87a) FLEX RELAY INPUT - Not Used H 3/9     RED / Black ACCESSORY/STARTER RELAY +12V INPUT (30A FUSED) - Ignition Switch Harness - Red H 3/10 NC Empty Note 1 Extra 30/40 Amp SPDT relay for Brown ACC2 wire : Relay Pin 85 to Viper H2/22 ORANGE (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT Relay Pin 86 and 87 to Sierra Red (+12V constant) @ ignition harness through 30 Amp fuse Relay Pin 30 to Sierra Brown ACC2 wire @ ignition harness Relay Pin 87a not used -Split +12V constant wires in the main ignition harness between Red and RED / White. Bypass Harness 4 Pin B 4/1     Blue/White GWR (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - H 2/9 B 4/2     Empty B 4/3     Black GROUND - Suitable Ground B 4/4     Red 12 v (+) - Ignition Switch Harness - Red (+) - 12 VOLT Constant Bypass Harness 10 Pin B 10/1     GREEN/ Black LOCK/ARM (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - On idatalink (Black) 10 pin plug the GREEN/ Black wire goes to the Green wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector B 10/2     Blue/Black UNLOCK/DISARM (-) INPUT - Viper Brain - On idatalink (Black) 10 pin plug the Blue/Black wire goes to the Blue wire on the Viper 3 Pin Connector B 10/3     RED / White TRUNK (-) INPUT - Not Used B 10/4     Brown DISARM ONLY - Viper Brain     - The brown wire goes to your lt. GREEN/ black - FASD (Factory Alarm Shutdown Disarm) wire H2/4 B 10/5     Purple / YELLOW LEFT SLIDING DOOR - Not Used B 10/6     PURPLE / Black RIGHT SLIDING DOOR - Not Used B 10/7     White - Not Used B 10/8     BLACK/ White - Not Used B 10/9     Green - Not Used B 10/10 PURPLE / White TACH OUTPUT - The PURPLE / white goes to your violet/white tach wire on Viper H 2/23 Bypass Harness 3 Pin B 3/1     Yellow/Black DOOR STATUS (-) Output - Viper Brain (Optional) B 3/2     Yellow/Red TRUNK STATUS (-) Output - Not Used B 3/3     Yellow - Not Used Bypass Harness 7 Pin B 7/2     BROWN / Yellow - Not Used B 7/3     ORANGE / Black - Not Used B 7/4     ORANGE / White - Not Used B 7/5     Orange     Data - OBDII #2 B 7/6     Pink/Black - Not Used B 7/7     Pink IGNITION (+) INPUT - Viper Brain Ignition (+) Output (The Pink input wire from the bypass will connect to the Ignition 1 Output on Viper (H1/1) wire). Still have a few Questions: When hooking up the H3/7 Pink/White (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) to the White (+) of Ignition 2 do I just stub off the key side? On idatalink Black 10 pin plug the GREEN/ Black wire as well as the Blue/Black wires goes to the Green and Blue wire respectively on the Viper 3 Pin Door Lock Harness – Does the Viper H2/6 then handle the appropriate connection to the BCM (LIGHT BLUE PLUG - PINs B4 and B5). On the Viper H 2/4 does the GREEN/ Black (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT go to the Idatalink Bypass (DISARM ONLY INPUT), and will this allow functionality of my OEM alarm system? Is the H 2/17 Grey (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC or NO) connection necessary? Other than that I think I’m done unless you can think of another reason why I should bother you - I can’t tell you again how much I appreciate your help – if you’re ever in Colorado I’d be happy to buy you a few beers and dinner. -Rick RoadGlide2459

RE H3/7 : Yes, you are only using this wire. There is no need to cut the White IGN2 wire and use the the Pink/Black wire. "On idatalink Black 10 pin plug the GREEN/ Black wire as well as the Blue/Black wires goes to the Green and Blue wire respectively on the Viper 3 Pin Door Lock Harness – Does the Viper H2/6 then handle the appropriate connection to the BCM (LIGHT BLUE PLUG - PINs B4 and B5)." You are confusing the Door Lock / Unlock wires with the Door Trigger wires. Your wire connections are correct for Lock/Arm, Unlock and Disarm. This will control the door locks and Factory Alarm (if equipped). As mentioned previously, the bypass module will supply the front door triggers only. Do you have a Base Model Sierra ( with a Factory Alarm )? If you have a 4 door truck you will have to add the rear door trigger wires. Here is the info from Audiovox : LR Latch LIGHT BLUE/BLACK (-) AT BCM    RR Latch LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) AT BCM Use diodes to isolate these three input wires that connect to the Viper H2/6 Green (-) Door Trigger Input. Here is a generic diagram for door trigger diode isolation. "On the Viper H 2/4 does the GREEN/ Black (-) 200mA OEM ALARM DISARM OUTPUT go to the Idatalink Bypass (DISARM ONLY INPUT), and will this allow functionality of my OEM alarm system?" Yes "Is the H 2/17 Grey (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC or NO) connection necessary? " Yes, this is an important safety feature during a remote start and is monitored by the Viper Alarm system to protect that area of the truck.Soldering is fun!

Thanks Kregg, I have a 2 door truck (with rear half doors – i.e no locks on those doors) with a factory OEM Alarm. Leaving everything else the same I will finalize the wiring as follows: H 3/7     Pink/White (30) FLEX RELAY OUTPUT – (car side of ign, acc or starter wire) - Ignition Switch Harness - White (+) – Splice into wire as opposed to cutting and stubbing off “key side” I will wire idatalink (Black 10 pin plug) GREEN/ Black wire as well as the Blue/Black wires to the Green and Blue wires respectively on the Viper 3 Pin Door Lock Harness and then wire H 2/6 as follows: H 2/6 Green (-) DOOR TRIGGER INPUT - LIGHT BLUE PLUG at the BCM, PINS B4 and B5 and use two short wires connected to 1 amp diodes (with strip side to BCM connections) and then H2/6 in order to split the signal to the front left door, the front right door. - Would you happen to know the Open Polarity / Closed Polarity? Think that should do it for my door locks and factory alarm. Will also wire H 2/17 Grey (-) HOOD PIN INPUT (NC or NO) to appropriate location for Hood Pin in “Never Open” mode. Assume that means hood cannot be open for remote starting to occur. Think that’s it – could have not done this without your help. If it wasn’t snowing up here today I’d probably do the install – as it is, will have wait until next weekend because as you know, “Murphys law” often comes into play with something like this and having to make a parts run on my motorcycle would not be a good thing. Will probably tinker with my bench test equipment and add the necessary lights etc (as in the video you indicated) while I watch the Daytona 500. Thanks again – will let you know how it all turns out. -Rick RoadGlide2459