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viper 5204 on 03 sierra


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 23, 2014 at 10:32 AM / IP Logged  
The only other suggestion would be to save some time and trouble. The ADS AL CA bypass module flashed with the ADS AL(DL) GM1
firmware will supply a (-) Door Status signal that could be connected to the Viper H2/6 Green wire. Being as the rear doors can't open
without the fronts doors opened first, it would provide a good enough signal for alarm purposes and not require trying to get the
actual door pin signals from the truck. Just one wire connection, no diodes, done during bench prep.
ADS AL-CA
Bypass Harness 3 Pin
B 3/1     Yellow/Black DOOR STATUS (-) Output - to Viper H2/6 Green
B 3/2     Yellow/Red TRUNK STATUS (-) Output - Not Used
B 3/3     Yellow - Not Used
Note : The ADS AL CA Door Status is the normal N.O. style output, which is the default setting for the Viper H2/6 Input wire. The trucks
door pin switches operate the same as the hood pin switch that is supplied with the Viper ( N.O. type ).
N.C. = Normally closed
N.O. = Normally open
Soldering is fun!
roadglide2459 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spacespace
Joined: February 16, 2014
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: February 23, 2014 at 10:54 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the tip
Is N.C (Normally Closed) (+) and N.O. (Normally Open) (-) at the BCM
RoadGlide2459
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 23, 2014 at 12:12 PM / IP Logged  
Typically N.C. and N.O. trigger wires are (-) signals. Using the kit supplied hood pin switch as an example, it has a spring loaded plunger
that only has one wire connection. When installed properly, it is screwed into the vehicles metal frame that is (-) chassis ground. When
the switch is adjusted correctly, with the hood closed the plunger is depressed and the output wire is "open" ( this is the Normally Open
designation ). When the hood is raised, the spring pushes the plunger up and it makes a connection to the chassis frame / ground and
outputs a (-) signal.
Here is info from ReadyRemote on your truck :
gray/black (except base models) (-) driver window switch, black 26 pin plug, pin 18
On base models, it is gray/black (-) at the BCM, lt. blue plug, pin B4. The BCM (Body Control Module) is under the driver dash. It has 6 plugs,
the purple plug is on the back.
Here is the info from Bulldog Security :
GRAY/BLACK (-) DRIVERS and BLACK/ WHITE (-) PASSENGER, Use both, See NOTE #3 @ EACH DOOR MODULE in EACH DOOR
NOTE #3: on the BASE model trucks the wires are in the LIGHT BLUE PLUG at the BCM, PINS B4
and B5. On the 4 door trucks the DRIVERS REAR door is a LIGHT BLUE/BLACK (-) PIN A3 and
the PASSENGERS REAR DOOR is a LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) PIN A2 these wires are in the the
PURPLE PLUG at the BCM.
Here is the info from Audiovox :
LF Latch GRAY/BLACK (-) IN DRIVERS DOOR MODULE OR (AVXGMDL4)   
RF Latch BLACK/ WHITE (-) IN PASSENGERS DOOR MODULE OR(AVXGMDL4)   
LR Latch LIGHT BLUE/BLACK (-) AT BCM   
RR Latch LIGHT GREEN/ BLACK (-) AT BCM
Soldering is fun!
roadglide2459 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spacespace
Joined: February 16, 2014
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: February 25, 2014 at 10:39 AM / IP Logged  
Hi Kregg,
Thanks for the tip = I will wire the B 3/1 Yellow/Black DOOR STATUS (-) Output - to Viper H2/6 Green DOOR TRIGGER input and forego the diodes as I would prefer to do as much soldering on the bench as I can.
Also – do you know the size of the ignition wires – my 40 watt solder iron works fine for the smaller gauge wires but I don’t think it will handle the larger ignition wires. For that matter, can you recommend a good solder gun or iron.
One last thing (I hope) – I think I will wire the TACH INPUT H 2/23 into the instrument cluster as you suggested – by doing so I assume I will not use the BYPASS PURPLE / White TACH OUTPUT wire – is that a correct assumption.
Thanks again,
-Rick
RoadGlide2459
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 25, 2014 at 12:20 PM / IP Logged  
The typical 40w soldering iron probably won't be enough to handle the thicker ( 10 - 14 gauge ) wires. Everyone has a favorite for this
type of work. Most any 100 - 140 w soldering gun will work. I use an old WEN Model 199k for these wires. Weller makes a gun in this
class ( available at Home Depot or WalMart ) and you can get a decent model from Sears or RadioShack.
Yes, the trucks White Tach wire at the instrument cluster will work fine. As mentioned, there have been some reported issues with the
ADS bypass modules Tach output a week or two after install. Popping out the cluster is fairly easy, just 4 screws after the bezel trim is
removed. There are some YouTube videos on this procedure. There should be enough extra harness to pull out the cluster far enough
to make the connection without even disconnecting the plug. If it's not the only White wire in the harness, set your Digital Multi Meter
to +20V AC, Black test lead to chassis ground and Red test lead to the suspect White wire. At idle you should see a signal around 5V AC
that will rise with RPM's. The instrument cluster R&R should not cause any problems with the gauges.
Soldering is fun!
roadglide2459 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spacespace
Joined: February 16, 2014
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: February 25, 2014 at 12:50 PM / IP Logged  
Got it...
By doing so I assume I will not use the BYPASS PURPLE / White TACH OUTPUT wire – is that a correct assumption.
Also - Thought I’d run something past you to get your input.
I plan on mounting both the Viper and the idatalink on a piece of 3/8th press board shaped to fit onto the firewall to the left of the steering column. This way I can solder all the necessary connections between the units on the bench and have better wire management (with those wires) as well.
What I was also thinking was using a small 12V marine type buss bar (hooked up directly to the car battery via an 10 or 8 gauge wire) and also mounted on the press board for all the 12V constant connections. This way I would not have to splice into the Red and RED / White 12V constant wires coming out of the ignition switch harness and thus minimize soldering and wire congestion under the dash.
Just thought I’d run it past you – Small Marine type 12V Buss Bars are less than 15 bucks and I think will save a fair amount of time when wiring the 12V constant connections, not to mention cutting/splicing into the ignition switch harness, thus maintaining wire integrity.
Hope you're having a good day
Thanks,
-Rick
RoadGlide2459
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: February 25, 2014 at 2:05 PM / IP Logged  
Yes on the Tach wire. The Viper only needs to see one good tach input. The White wire at the instrument cluster is a solid signal. No
need to use the ADS AL-CA's Tach output.
The direct +12V connection to the battery is fine. Just be sure to use an appropriate size fuse on this wire within 12 inches of the
positive battery terminal connection point.
I don't use Viper alarm systems so I can't comment or make any recommendations on the solid mounting system you are planning.
Soldering is fun!
roadglide2459 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spacespace
Joined: February 16, 2014
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: February 25, 2014 at 2:26 PM / IP Logged  
Kregg,
Think I should have said mounting the Viper Brain and idatalink to the press board (along with a small buss bar) – do not intend to mount the alarm there.
Theoretically, by using a buss bar I should be able to completely shut down the R/S system and revert to stock by installing two rocker switches – One for terminating power to the buss bar and one for the yellow starter wire (although I might not need a second rocker switch if the Viper has pass-through for the starter circuit.) Not sure about that scenario – have do a bit more research / testing
Thanks,
-Rick
RoadGlide2459
roadglide2459 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spacespace
Joined: February 16, 2014
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: March 03, 2014 at 10:05 AM / IP Logged  
Kregg,
We'll I installed the Viper and the idatalink this weekend but have a major problem - the entire truck is dead (no dome lights, no headlights or brake lights, etc).
It's as if the battery is completely disconnected.
Could that be from a miss-programmed idatalink - I'm at a loss right now. I even disconnected everything and reverted to stock, but the problem persists.
Thanks
-Rick
RoadGlide2459
roadglide2459 
Member - Posts: 36
Member spacespace
Joined: February 16, 2014
Location: Colorado, United States
Posted: March 03, 2014 at 5:44 PM / IP Logged  
Hi Kregg,
Please ignore my last message - turns out my battery died during the install. I knew it was getting time to replace it and - Murphys law came into play as I was finalizing the install.
All that said everything works great - I do have one question though. With remote start the "Service 4WD" warning come on in the drivers information control center, however when I unlock and start the truck with the OEM key fob the light does not come on.
No error codes present when checking with a scanner so I'm not quite sure what to do.
Hope things are going well.
-Rick
RoadGlide2459
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