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Express dball 2 and Viper 5706v Wiring


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thrue1 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2008
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: March 01, 2014 at 1:52 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for all your help; I also wanted to know few more things:
1. Should I use actual Tach wire or Virtual tach off D2D of Viper will be ok? In illinois it gets cold in the winter time and I was not sure that if Virtual tach is good enough? or to go with ACTUAL tach wire?
2. Also, for the 24 pin harness of Viper 5706V; I don't really need to use anything expect for 13 BLACK/ WHITE** (-) Neutral Safety/parking brake input.? Besides this everything else can be used if I want to add more relays and do other things, like add more AUX outputs etc...
3. Door locks will be taken care of D2D with idatalink? Correct? So I don't need to worry about wiring this up.
4. Brake will also be taken care of D2D; so no wire needed? Othewise I need to hook up brake and 24 pin; 20 BROWN (+) Brake Shutdown input?
5. In the 6 pin harness; the 6; ORANGE (-)500mA ground when armed output; will not need to be use for the most simple install.   SO don't need to use?
6. TRUNK release is built into D2D? If not, I need a relay and wire using the 24 pin; 3; RED / WHITE -200Ma Truck release output; I understand now the the relay hook up.
freqsounds 
Copper - Posts: 289
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 17, 2008
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: March 01, 2014 at 1:59 PM / IP Logged  
Are you using the DBALL or idatalink?
No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)
thrue1 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2008
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: March 01, 2014 at 2:03 PM / IP Logged  
Idatalink _ flashed with DBI to work with viper 5706v communication. 2011 camry.
freqsounds 
Copper - Posts: 289
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 17, 2008
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: March 01, 2014 at 2:21 PM / IP Logged  
Alright, I'm completely confused because your opening post said you were using the DBALL, but now it's the idatalink. There are 4 different modules for this car, so I'm going to assume you're using the ADS-ALCA.
1. Many techs swear by hooking up the Tach wire. While I agree, sometimes it's easier to use the Virtual Tach and increase the Fine Tune with a bitwriter by 100ms. The Virtual Tach works pretty well in my opinion if it's tuned correctly. But I have heard that it won't work on some cars, and the tach wire is needed. It's kind of trial and error.
2. You might need the hood pin if the car doesn't have one stock. Same with the trunk. You won't know whether you need these until you test it. Other than that, your neutral safety wire will go to ground if it's an automatic, and the handbrake if it's manual.
3, 4, 5, 6. The iDatalink is supposed to take care of all these via D2D. Sometimes it doesn't though. Unfortunately, the only way to tell if it's going to take care of these is to hook it up and test it before boxing up.
No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)
thrue1 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2008
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: March 01, 2014 at 2:34 PM / IP Logged  
I am a different user trying to do same but I have idatalink. I got it flashed with DBI, and going to hook up 2way as shown in idatalink manual diagram 1.
I would like ur opinion with the tach wire. Is better for winter time or stick with virtual tach? I don't have a bit writer,   
freqsounds 
Copper - Posts: 289
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 17, 2008
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: March 01, 2014 at 2:38 PM / IP Logged  
If you don't have access to a bit writer, it may be best to wire up the tach. You can check a local shop to see if they'd charge much to increase the virtual tach fine tune. Without increasing it, I found the car doesn't like to start the first time.
No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)
thrue1 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2008
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: March 01, 2014 at 3:08 PM / IP Logged  
I have another question?
1. Take the 12v constant from ing harness or run a heavy wire to the car batter? I am asking b/c I will have to connect min of 5, 12v constant and I wanted to get your opinion?
2. Also take tach wire from the injectors or from the inside of car OBD | | conn connector 9? Which is better?
thrue1 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2008
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: March 01, 2014 at 3:27 PM / IP Logged  
I want to thank you for your help
freqsounds 
Copper - Posts: 289
Copper spacespace
Joined: October 17, 2008
Location: Virginia, United States
Posted: March 01, 2014 at 4:07 PM / IP Logged  
The +12V at the ignition cylinder should be sufficient for this install.
Either of those connections will work. It's easier at the OBD II connector, but it's your choice.
Just FYI, it's recommended to create your own post to prevent confusion like what happened above. If you have an issue that's related to another thread, you can reference that thread in your post by posting the link. :)
No question is stupid or not worth asking. You were once a noob, right? :)
thrue1 
Copper - Posts: 77
Copper spacespace
Joined: December 09, 2008
Location: Illinois, United States
Posted: March 01, 2014 at 5:32 PM / IP Logged  
I have another similar question, and relates to parking lights, 6 pin connector, viper 5706v.
In 2011 camry, it is a (-) parking light. So I jump fuse on the viper module to (-) , and then use a relay to run the parking lights?   
Do I have to use 4 WHITE/ BROWN parking light isolation wire- pin 87a of onboard relay ?
I know I have to use 5 WHITE Parking output ? But do this with a relay?
Thanks
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