Express dball 2 and Viper 5706v Wiring

No point. This would be exactly the same as using the +ACC wire at H3/3. Incidentally on a gasoline engine the ACC doesn't cut in until the engine is running. You're making unnecessary complications and failure points for the future. First principle is KISS. Keep it simple, stupid!Test before boxing up.

Just want to make sure that I can right? What I am trying to achieve is that car remote start duration for 1st setting is 12 min, so I start start car with remote start and let it warm up for 6 min, and when I am about to enter car I turn on AUX channel 2 with my remote and if I keep the fan knob at 4 setting, I get instant warm air, thus if I enter car at 11 min , it be nice and warm,   And I will have saved initial load / wear on engine and other components. I would like to do this.... Please help me out... My logic is that if I install with a timer delay then i am not in control, but if I keep on AUX channel, even if I forget to turn on the channel, even if it is on let's say knob 2 setting, when I insert key into the ignition, the normal ignition system will still kick on power to accessory wire, because my remote accessory output is just an added source, I mean it's not cut like starter wire.....

Of course you can do it that way, aux to 85, 12V+ fused at 30 amps to 86 and 87, 30 to ACC. Diode across coil* 1N4004, band to 86. *Prevents relay shutdown spike (c. 200volts) affecting your remote start. Really can't see the point in all this though, as I said before all HVAC systems are delayed until the engine has been running a short period of time. You're going to a lot of bother to duplicate your engine management.Test before boxing up.

Can I just use the accessory output like this: 85: -200mA AUX 1 let's say , latched until reset 86: Accessory output (ORANGE) coming from remote start of viper. 87: Same accessory output wire(orange ). 30: another same gage wire going to car accessory wire This way I don't need fuses? Not sure.. Please kindly comment

Yes.Test before boxing up.

So that's even simpler and get the full effectiveness I am looking for.    One last question to confirm: No fuses or diodes needed if I use the accessory output to power the relay in the above setup? I am all square after this I think , thanks so much.

Diode 1N4004 across 85 and 86 for reasons stated above.Test before boxing up.

freqsounds wrote: Yes, all three of those wires get connected to +12V constant. The ignition is controlled through Ignition1 and Ignition2 on the remote start. Your starter wire is a different story. You have the Starter wire (violet) on the remote start unit. You will need a relay for the car's Starter2. Pin 85 - Ground Pin 86 - Starter from alarm (violet) Pin 30 - Starter 2 on car Pin 87 - +12V constant - Make sure you install a fuse. 20A should be sufficient. Never tie both of the starter wires together. You don't need a DBALL and an iDataLink module. They both do the same thing. You'll have to pick one for your install. ;)

Here I won't need a diode on 86 correct?

Except that will cause feedback across the two starters causing problems and fault codes to appear which belies the last comment on the freqsounds post. Wire it thus:- H2 violet yellow (-) to 85 Fused 30 amps to 86 and 87 2nd starter from 30. And yes the good old 1N4004 across 85 and 86, band to 86.Test before boxing up.

Can u please explain when you say across 85 and 86?