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viper 3203 trunk release not grounding


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misterd 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: March 20, 2014
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 02, 2014 at 3:00 PM / IP Logged  
catback wrote:
Yes, there are other (proper) tests when you think a transistorized output may be current limiting or going into current protection shutdown. You need to determine how many amps your drawing by activating whatever you have on that channel/output. The module is only good for 200mA per channel which is typically one relay correctly wired with no mishaps with things like diodes facing the wrong way or issues with the relay that will cause it to draw more than 200mA max.
Not 100% clear, are you saying I should be testing the amps on the 30/87 circuit or the 85/86 circuit? The relay is being used for door poppers/solenoid a associated with shaved door handles. I've tested the popper on another channel/relay and it works correctly. I believe the solenoid draws 30A.
If I need to test the 85/86 amperage, would I put my DMM into 10ADC mode and put the probes between the 85 and a ground?
I don't have any diodes installed. In fact the quenching diode was all new to me but interesting purpose. Seems like it would be something relay manufactures would internalize.
Just to summarize, my current wiring is as follows:
30 - 12v+ fused with 30A
85 - wired to Trunk Release on Viper 3203v
86 - 12v+ (same fused connection as the 30)
87 - wired to door popper/solenoid
87a - not used
catback 
Silver - Posts: 703
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 13, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: August 02, 2014 at 5:08 PM / IP Logged  
misterd wrote:
If I need to test the 85/86 amperage, would I put my DMM into 10ADC mode and put the probes between the 85 and a ground?
Just to summarize, my current wiring is as follows:
30 - 12v+ fused with 30A
85 - wired to Trunk Release on Viper 3203v
86 - 12v+ (same fused connection as the 30)
87 - wired to door popper/solenoid
87a - not used
Yes that is how you would test current draw for the low-current (coil) part of the relay. Your DMM in essence takes the place of the 3203. You'll be measuring for milliamps so the 2A or 2000mA scale would be better. On the 10ADC scale your reading would/should be less than 0.2A.
Your relay setup looks good as printed so if your test concludes a current of less than 200mA for the relay you have wired to the 3203 and it fails to operate but succeeds in triggering a DMM (in volt mode) then short of a bad/weak ground or power the 3203 will need to be replaced.
misterd 
Member - Posts: 6
Member spacespace
Joined: March 20, 2014
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 03, 2014 at 12:59 AM / IP Logged  
catback wrote:
Yes that is how you would test current draw for the low-current (coil) part of the relay. Your DMM in essence takes the place of the 3203. You'll be measuring for milliamps so the 2A or 2000mA scale would be better. On the 10ADC scale your reading would/should be less than 0.2A.
Your relay setup looks good as printed so if your test concludes a current of less than 200mA for the relay you have wired to the 3203 and it fails to operate but succeeds in triggering a DMM (in volt mode) then short of a bad/weak ground or power the 3203 will need to be replaced.
Thanks for clarification... Tested with the DMM in between the 3203 trunk release and the 85 prong on the relay in 20m mode and got about 3.5m when triggered the channel. Looks like it's functioning, just not well enough to trigger the relay. Guess it's time for a new brain!
Thanks again for your help and suggestions, I'll report back once I get the new brain installed (hopefully with good news).
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