viper 211hv 1996 mustang gt

I bought a Viper 211hv keyless entry system for my 1996 Mustang GT. For the most part I am able to understand the instructions. When it comes down to the door lock and unlock part of the instruction guide it seems vague to me. The guide states: H1/5-GREEN/ black      Lock#30 common output H1/6-WHITE/ black      Lock#87 normally closed H1/7-violet/black     Lock#87 normally open (input) H1/8-blue/black       Unlock#30 common (output) H1/9-violet  Unlock#87 normally open (input) H1/17-BROWN / black     Unlock#87a normally closed The explanation for H1/5 says: The system has door lock relays on-board, and can directly interface with most electric power door lock systems drawing 30 amps or less. It can also drive aftermarket actuators directly. (Some vehicles require that an aftermarket actuator be added to driver's door to allow system control, see Type D wiring section in Tech Tip document 1041) The explanation for the others just say to refer to H1/5. My question is when it refers to the pin # of the relay, are they referring to the on-board relay or am I required to install my own relay? If I am required to install my own relay the pin #'s they offered don't make since. From my understanding of relays as an auto technician the pin #'s they offer are the circuit being driven not the circuit that activates the relay to engage. Shouldn't the module be what activates the relays switch and the switch side of the relay be the power lock circuit? Basically I'm pretty confused how to wire this to the lock and unlock circuit to actually work. I have included a picture of the offered diagram by Viper 1996 Ford Mustang GT

Did your Mustang come with Factory Remote Keyless Entry? Probably did, if it was a GT. Anyway, with Factory RKE, vehicles have Type B locks, while vehicles without Factory RKE are Type C ( 5 wire REV ) locks. The 211HV has built in relays and lock wire wise it is similar to the 451M Door Lock module. There is an install guide for the 451M in the Downloads Section and it has detailed wiring diagrams for the various type of lock systems. Either way, locate the vehicles locks wires in either kick panel. Test them with a DMM to verify Type B Locks. Use a Digital Multi Meter set to 20V DC, Red test lead to +12V constant and Black test lead to suspect wire. A vehicle lock command will briefly show +12V on the DMM. For Type B locks, your 211HV wiring will look like this : H1/5-GREEN/ black      Lock#30 common output Lock wire to Pink / YELLOW Lock wire H1/6-WHITE/ black      Lock#87a normally closed  not used H1/7-violet/black     Lock#87 normally open (input)    Chassis ground H1/8-blue/black       Unlock#30 common (output)       Unlock wire   to Pink/Light Green H1/9-violet  Unlock#87 normally open (input)    Chassis Ground H1/17-BROWN / black     Unlock#87a normally closed     not used If you have Type C locks the DMM test is different. DMM set to 20V DC, Black test lead to Chassis Ground, Red test lead to suspect wire. A lock pulse will show +12V briefly on the DMM. If this is the case, we can post the 211HV wiring for the Type C locks. Soldering is fun!

I have looked for the factory RKE already after I looked on Mitchell and saw there was a diagram for mustangs with and without it. I pulled the trunk cover away from the driver side and looked and found no module or wire harness. My first thought was to try and buy the module and found if you didn't have the module already then to install factory RKE you need to replace the harness also. I figured the Viper would be an easier solution that took less time. Given this information I was say I have type C.1996 Ford Mustang GT

First step is to locate the lock wires in either kick panel.  They are Pink / YELLOW and Pink/Light Green.  Use a DMM and the above

mentioned tests to verify if they are (-) Type B or (+) Type C signals.  If they are Type C, follow the 451M Install guides Type Cdiagram on Page 3.  Here is a link :    https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/file.asp?ID=726

H1/5-GREEN/ black        Lock#30 common output       Motor side of cut Lock wire

H1/6-WHITE/ black         Lock#87a normally closed     Switch side of cut Lock wireH1/7-violet/black         Lock#87 normally open (input)          +12V constantH1/8-blue/black Unlock#30 common (output) Motor side of cut Unlock wireH1/9-violet      Unlock#87 normally open (input)                   +12V constantH1/17-BROWN / black     Unlock#87a normally closed               Switch side of cut Unlock wire

Soldering is fun!

I'm not sure I'm following your steps to test correctly. It's easier to test at the switch than it is in the kick panel. I can't reach the wires on either side. But from the back of the switch I probed the pink and yellow with the black probe and put the red probe to positive battery terminal. My dmm shows 13v. If I hit the unlock switch it will drop to 12v. I then tried to back probe the same pink and yellow wire with the red probe and put the black probe to chassis ground. Again I got 13v then dropped to 12v when I hit unlock. My dmm is auto ranging can't choose 20v dc.1996 Ford Mustang GT

I must of had something crossed because I retried the test and when I had type c test hooked up I had 0v then when I hit unlock it flashed quick then dropped back down. It seems I have type c.1996 Ford Mustang GT

Sounds like Type C.  I always try to get the lock wires inside the car.  Running wires into the door can lead to problems if notdone perfectly.  I will even extend the lock wires to reach the passenger kick panel if it provided easier wire access.  The 451M Install guide gives some good insights and testing procedures.Soldering is fun!

I'll see what I can do. Maybe I'll run wires through the door rubber boot from inside the car. I'll try to remove the fuse panel mounted in the way to connect inside the car first. Thanks for the help. When I have daylight to try and install I'll do the whole job then. Any problems arise I'll be back.1996 Ford Mustang GT

I got everything installed and working properly. Just for anyone wanting a list of what I wired into I'm going to post a list of what I used. H1/1 Red (+)12v constant power in - Ignition Yellow wire. H1/2 Blue (-)200 mA second unlock out - N/A H1/3 BLACK/ white-1 Input of dome light relay #87 - (+)Lt GREEN/ YELLOW H1/4 BLACK/ white Output of dome light relay #30 - (-)BLACK/ Light Blue H1/5 GREEN/ Black Lock #30 Common out - (+)motor side Pink / YELLOW H1/6 WHITE/ Black Lock #87a Normally closed - (-)switch side Pink / YELLOW H1/7 Violet/Black Lock #87 Normally open (in) - (+)BLACK/ White H1/8 Blue/Black Unlock #30 common out - (+)motor side Pink/Light Green H1/9 Violet Unlock #87 Normally open (in) - (+)BLACK/ White H1/10 White (+/-) Parking light flash out - Brown H1/11 Black (-)Chassis ground in - Behind drivers kick panel H1/12 Brown (-)Horn honk out - (-)Yellow/Light Green at horn relay H1/13 Light GREEN/ Black Factory alarm disarm - N/A H1/14 WHITE/ Blue (-)200 mA Channel 3 Validity out - N/A H1/15 Yellow (+)Switched Ignition in (accessory) - N/A H1/16 Orange (-)500 mA Ground-When-Armed Out - N/A H1/17 BROWN / Black Unlock #87a Normally Closed - (-) switch side Pink/Light green H1/18 RED / White (-)Output of Channel 2 (trunk release) - wired in a new relay to operate trunk release 1996 Ford Mustang GT