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i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: June 28, 2014 at 11:54 PM / IP Logged  
Use a second relay to feed that one.
New relay wired as follows. Ground to 85, blinker wire that goes positive to ground to 86. Constant power to 30, 87 feeds the other relay.
Check the diode first, it has to be shorted.
xtremespeed 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2006
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 29, 2014 at 9:31 AM / IP Logged  
Ok. Did some more tests this morning. The diode between the flasher and the cap was shorted so I replaced both diodes. As soon as I apply 12v the diode before the cap shorts. I am using 1n4742A diodes. Now I assume these are not compatible? They are 12v 21ma. Is the current rating too low?
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: June 29, 2014 at 9:52 AM / IP Logged  
Use any 1N400x diode - I suggest 1N4004 or 1N4007 as they are the most common and can be used for other things.
The 1n4742A is a Zener diode and totally inappropriate.
xtremespeed 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2006
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 29, 2014 at 10:07 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the help. I found a 1n4001 in my parts box and tried it. Seems to work. I'll just have to go get some more.
What is the purpose of the second diode across the relay coil? The circuit seems to work fine with or without it.
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,667
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: June 29, 2014 at 6:34 PM / IP Logged  
Parallel 3 to handle the current required to charge the capacitor.
The one across the coil of the relay is to quench the backlash that happens when you remove power from the coil. Without it, it may make a pop in your audio system everytime it disengages.
xtremespeed 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2006
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 29, 2014 at 9:31 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks. Picked up some 1N4004's today. They work great. Now I have a new issue. I'm using the above circuit to turn on 3 other relays. One controls the positive side of a bulb. The other 2 control a second bulb. One for the positive side and one for the negative side. When everything is connected, it all works but the relay with the cap never shuts off after the turn signal wire turns it on, unless it goes to ground for a period of time. If it go's open it stays on. I can't figure out what is causing the relay to stay on. There must be a backfeed somewhere.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: June 29, 2014 at 10:23 PM / IP Logged  
Why are you switching both sides of a bulb? Only one side is required to be opened.
The circuit you are using requires the input +12V to be removed. Then the cap will discharge thru the relay coil and eventually the relay will de-energise - probably after ~0.2 seconds or longer, and maybe without chatter.
xtremespeed 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2006
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 30, 2014 at 4:09 AM / IP Logged  
Controlling both sides of the bulb because it serves double duty as a side marker parking light and a turn signal. When the parking lights are on, I use the 12v + in the turn signal feed to kill the bulb so it flashes opposite the front turn signal bulb and when the parking lights are not on I use the ground in the turn signal feed to turn the bulb on to flash opposite the front turn signal. Basically I wanted the side marker to flash opposite the front turn signal bulb anytime the turn signals are on, but I also want it to remain lit when the parking lights are on which requires it to be controlled on the ground side. I hope this makes sense to you. It's kinda hard to explain.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: June 30, 2014 at 4:54 AM / IP Logged  
I think I know what you're trying to do, and I think it won't work. But if you see a current path thru the side bulb as desired, it should work.
But usually all switching is done on the +12V side without any GND switching.   If GNDs can be separated (isolated from GND/chassis) then the bulb is often placed between parker +12V & the flasher can, thou that causes out-of-phase flashing.   
But dual purpose bubs that include the flashing/indicator get quite tricky...
Good luck.
xtremespeed 
Member - Posts: 38
Member spacespace
Joined: February 10, 2006
Location: Texas, United States
Posted: June 30, 2014 at 6:57 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks. You guys have been a great help.
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