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viper 5906v+idatalink ads alca 8thg civic


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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 14, 2014 at 1:31 AM / IP Logged  
Disconnect immediately, you've gone to the wrong wire at the injector.
Did you test your chosen injector wire before connecting?
Question? Doesn't the alca give you a tach signal?
mannydelrosario 
Member - Posts: 29
Member spacespace
Joined: May 05, 2014
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: July 14, 2014 at 4:50 AM / IP Logged  
No I did not test it. I connected it to the BLACK/ white closest to the driver side.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 14, 2014 at 4:57 AM / IP Logged  
Do you know how to test for tach?
Also once more, does the CAN module your using have a dedicated tach output?
Frankly I don't think unqualified/inexperienced persons should go with W2W, too many chances for a mistake.
catback 
Silver - Posts: 703
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 13, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: July 14, 2014 at 6:40 AM / IP Logged  
mannydelrosario wrote:
No I did not test it. I connected it to the BLACK/ white closest to the driver side.
Why? You should always test wires before you tap into them. Exception to this is far, few, and largely dependent on how good and trust worthy the wiring info you have is. Personally, I only trust factory wiring diagrams everything else has to prove it's worth and I even test wires when using a factory wiring diagram. It's a good habit and you can never be too sure before you solder onto a wire.
howie ll wrote:
Do you know how to test for tach?
Also once more, does the CAN module your using have a dedicated tach output?
Frankly I don't think unqualified/inexperienced persons should go with W2W, too many chances for a mistake.
By the install guide, the alca does NOT have tach output on this firmware. Really sucks if you ask me.
mannydelrosario 
Member - Posts: 29
Member spacespace
Joined: May 05, 2014
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: July 14, 2014 at 4:29 PM / IP Logged  
How do I test for tach?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 14, 2014 at 4:34 PM / IP Logged  
Sooo predictable.
Take your DMM, set it to 20VAC*, black probe to battery ground, red probe to suspect wire.
Start your engine. The correct wire should give you a reading of 2-5VAC*.
If you increase the revs voltage should rise slightly. This should only show a reading with the engine running.
*Please note AC voltage, NOT DC.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 14, 2014 at 4:37 PM / IP Logged  
Now I'll tell you what your problems are.
You're following the install guides parrot fashion and you don't quite understand the how or why of what you're doing, definitely not testing at every stage which is what Catback hinted at and I know Kregg and I do.
Don't be afraid to ask questions BEFORE you do anything. We are here to help, we can't if you do something silly without asking it will only cost you money.
Out of interest if I'm doing a vehicle for the first time, I'll download ALL the install guides I can find, I print these out and on the job (mobile install) I carry a 4G iPad, paper copies and a laptop in case I have to reflash a module plus a Bitwriter.
I don't trust ANY guide unless to use Kreg's expression I can test and verify.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: July 14, 2014 at 7:32 PM / IP Logged  
With that era Civic, the F.I. tach signal measures under 1 V AC at idle. It is very low and some R/S systems have trouble learning
the signal. Your Viper system should have no issues.   Additionally, I have gotten a Engine Check Light on those Civic's just by DMM
testing, connecting and doing a Tach learn. The CEL does go away quickly with a few start-up's and miles.
While the info found on this forum is very accurate and given with best intentions, it is always prudent to test and verify every wire
possible prior to making the R/S connection. Some wires / signals can't be easily tested ( like Key Data and the SWC signal in your
application ), so extreme care should be used with these wires. This can be accomplished by using any and all info, available from
any trusted source, that includes things like connector location, connector color, number of pins, wire colors, wire gauge, etc.
Soldering is fun!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: July 15, 2014 at 1:30 AM / IP Logged  
As an example the plug carrying data and SWC is white on US models and green on Euro models. Also be very careful with those colours, they don't match for colours one light green is very vague, confirm by pin numbers.
mannydelrosario 
Member - Posts: 29
Member spacespace
Joined: May 05, 2014
Location: Quebec, Canada
Posted: July 19, 2014 at 2:09 PM / IP Logged  
I think I found out what caused the check engine.....
viper 5906v+idatalink ads alca 8thg civic - Page 4 -- posted image.
It was inside the rubber grommet of the main wire harness. I was poking a hole to run the tach wire to the engine bay with a screw driver.
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