'05 ford freestar power antenna

Hi All, First post here so please let me know if I'm doing things wrong. I have a 2005 Ford Freestar and just upgraded the OEM stereo to a newer Pioneer Stereo. Everything works on the Stereo (CD, AUX, Speakers wired correctly) except for tuning in any radio stations. I have checked and the antenna is connected to the Pioneer stereo. In my research I have found out that this van has a window antenna and the antenna is powered via an amp which in turn is powered by the radio. This would explain why the OEM stereo has no trouble picking up any AM or FM station in my area. Does anybody know what wire I'm missing to get the amp powered? I understand that the Remote Control wire (Blue wire) from my Pioneer harness can be used to power it. Also I have a Metra 70-5520 wiring harness to plug into the OEM Harness. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks! Acid0057

Take a look at your radio plug on the factory wiring side there should be a yellow/black wire. That is your power antenna feed. It needs power from the blue or blue/white from your new radio. Take a look at the pin location for the yellow/black and see if there is a wire that lines up on the metra harness. Much easier to attach to the metra harness obviously, but if no wire is present then you can attach directly behind the factory plug. No need to cut the wire, just split open the insulation, poke the new wire into the factory yellow/black, loop it around tightly, (solder) and tape.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Thanks for replying. Just double checked and the pioneer wire is blue/white. It is connected to the blue wire on the Metra harness. Which does line up with the yellow/black wire on the OEM harness. Still getting very poor reception. Is there anything I need to do on the stereo to make it work or is the blue/white cable live all the time?

Using a digital volt meter verify that 12v dc is present on the blue white wire coming out of the radio with the key and radio ON. If 12v dc is present, verify that it is also present on the yellow/black wire.

Basically making sure continuity is ok through the added connector.

Please report back.

For a temporary fix if you can not get this to work (and I know I will get flack for even suggesting it). You can take another antenna adapter and cut the car end off. You will have a wire that plugs into your radio with nothing at the other end. What you need to do is expose 2-3" of the internal copper wire, without letting the shielding touch the copper. This can be done on the bench out of the car. If you are familiar with house tv cable it is essentially the same construction. You basically just have an ultra stubby antenna just hanging out in the dash.

I have done this many times on boats/rvs as a cheap quick antenna. It is nowhere near as good as an actual antenna. Once cut the adapter is basically useless, so only do this on a spare piece.

To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Okay just tested with my meter. Let me know if I'm doing this correctly. Took apart my temp connection on the blue/white pioneer harness to the blue on the Metra. Put one end of my meter on one wire and the other on the blue wire. Got 11.94 v DC. If I put both leads from the meter on just the blue/white pioneer wire with the radio on I get nothing. What would be the best way to check the voltage all the way to the yellow/black wire on the OEM harness? Acid0057

The negative or black lead of your meter will go to a known good ground. You can check the ground by touching the red +ve lead to the yellow battery feed and the black -ve lead to find a ground. When the meter reads 12v you know that is a good ground and you can then test the blue/white wire from the radio. You will put the -ve lead to ground and the +ve lead to the blue/white. You should get 12v with the key and radio ON. Leave your connection together for this, check at the yellow/black wire with the radio and key on and the connection from the radio to the metra harness made. You should have 12v at the yellow/black.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

Okay tested as you asked and here's the results: Blue/white from pioneer- 12.04 v DC Tested continuity from pin for blue on metra harness to pin for blue/white on pioneer harness. All good there. Just not sure how to do the last one you wanted. Testing the yellow/black on the OEM while its all connected. How do you recommend making a solid connection with my +ve lead there? Thanks for sticking in with me so far appreciate it!

You can carefully use a small sewing needle back probed into the vehicle harness side of the plug, or you can strip off a small bit of insulation on the wire. To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*

I like the sewing needle method! Haven't heard of that before. They sure don't leave much extra wire at the OEM harness. I'm busy the next few days so I'll test and report back on Saturday if not earlier.

Sounds good, you can also use t-pin's found in craft stores. I always keep a box handy. Just don't stick them into the female part of the connector. If the connector is unplugged you don't want to jam anything into the female pin as it may spread the pin open too much and will cause it to not make contact once plugged back in. Back probing on the wire side is much safer and should not cause any damage as long as you don't hercules it in there. If power is present you may be out of options but to buy something like the metra 44-UA200 and an antenna extension cable to mount it towards the back of the vehicle. On a van one of the side rear windows will work if they don't open. Windshield would work as well. I personally like it to be in the back as it has a fairly bright red LED when it is on.To master and control electricity is perfection. *evil laugh*