2011 titan viper 4606 wont start

howie ll wrote: Black connector plugged in and switched on? BLACK/ white at H2 to a good ground. Are the red, RED / white and RED / black connected to a constant feed? The dark blue at H2 will give you a constant NEG about 1 second after you initiate R/Start, it gives enough current to light a Snap-On incandescent bulb tester. Program the R/S to automatic.

^All these connections are correct, I have checked and re checked 3 times including re soldering incase of a possible cold solder. I will check the negative from the dark blue status wire though to be sure.

howie ll wrote: Black connector plugged in and switched on? BLACK/ white at H2 to a good ground. Are the red, RED / white and RED / black connected to a constant feed? The dark blue at H2 will give you a constant NEG about 1 second after you initiate R/Start, it gives enough current to light a Snap-On incandescent bulb tester. Program the R/S to automatic.

^All these connections are correct, I have checked and re checked 3 times including re soldering incase of a possible cold solder. I will check the negative from the dark blue status wire though to be sure.

catback wrote: Zip tying keys to the ignition column doesn't work without relocating the antenna. The bypass modules e-brake output should not be grounded, if your not using it leave it disconnected. Virtual tach and real tach are two different things, real tach has to be manually learned by starting the vehicle and within 5 seconds pressing and holding the program button until 4106's LED lights constant. Virtual tach self learns on the first remote start and doesn't require a tach wire connection. It utilizes voltage monitoring instead of actual rpm (tach). I'd have to say closely scrutinize your installation and ensure things are connected where they should be. The idatalink has 6 wires that connect to the vehicle at 3 different locations. Make sure they are right and tight. Barring that I'd say the module or firmware is not working because so far in this post I've yet to see you mention any particular thing the bypass can do actually working. It is supposed to do e-brake, tach, hood pin, door pin, and brake pedal (while ignition on) status as well as doing transponder bypass.

The only reason I hooked up the ebrake wire is because the idata instructions say its required. I try disconnecting it. I do know the difference between the 2 tach options but that seems to be working, as does the hood pin, door pin, and brake pedal Just seems like the transponder bypass is the only thing not working.

catback wrote: Zip tying keys to the ignition column doesn't work without relocating the antenna. The bypass modules e-brake output should not be grounded, if your not using it leave it disconnected. Virtual tach and real tach are two different things, real tach has to be manually learned by starting the vehicle and within 5 seconds pressing and holding the program button until 4106's LED lights constant. Virtual tach self learns on the first remote start and doesn't require a tach wire connection. It utilizes voltage monitoring instead of actual rpm (tach). I'd have to say closely scrutinize your installation and ensure things are connected where they should be. The idatalink has 6 wires that connect to the vehicle at 3 different locations. Make sure they are right and tight. Barring that I'd say the module or firmware is not working because so far in this post I've yet to see you mention any particular thing the bypass can do actually working. It is supposed to do e-brake, tach, hood pin, door pin, and brake pedal (while ignition on) status as well as doing transponder bypass.

The only reason I hooked up the ebrake wire is because the idata instructions say its required. I try disconnecting it. I do know the difference between the 2 tach options but that seems to be working, as does the hood pin, door pin, and brake pedal Just seems like the transponder bypass is the only thing not working.

So your W2W setup grabs the brake pedal, hood, and doors from the bypass and they all work. During a remote start/take over session pressing the brake pedal kills the remote start whilst not being wired to the brake pedal switch but only to the bypass module. If this is functioning then the only suspects left are connection to the immobilizer wires at the ignition, the firmware on the bypass module, and the module itself. I'm basing this on the statement that if the key is in the ignition with the vehicle and key off that a remote start executes successfully, powers up the ignition and cranks the vehicle no problem. If wires and connections are good, you can always try the alternate firmware. The ADS-AL(DL)-NI4 (1.7) or even the transponder bypass only ADS-AL(TB)-NI4 (1.3) or DBI-AL(TB)-NI4 (1.3).

I also want to be sure with the wire connections you have cut and properly connected the immobilizer data wire at the ignition to the bypass module.

^My W2W setup works exactly as you describe. Grabs hood, doors etc and the brake pedal does interupt the start sequence when pushed and it is only wired to the bypass module. I just had a tech from the local 12v shop here take a look at it quick and flashed all the options of firmware onto my original bypass module and same outcome. Then we grabbed a new module and flashed all the same firmware options available onto it and same out come. He then tried going D2D and still the same result. It has to be the imobilizer wires, but even the tech said that its weird the bypass module is programming to the key correctly yet not starting. Im going to look at imobilizer wiring again. I followed the idatalink instructions on where to take the imobilizer wires from. The instructions show a pic of the plug and wire location on the plug for the imobilizer wires. I just noticed though that the wire colors I found dont match the wire color description in the idata instructions. Im sure I have the correct imobilizer wire plug as its the ony 4 wire plug near the steering column. Im digging into it this afternoon, it will start!

^My W2W setup works exactly as you describe. Grabs hood, doors etc and the brake pedal does interupt the start sequence when pushed and it is only wired to the bypass module. I just had a tech from the local 12v shop here take a look at it quick and flashed all the options of firmware onto my original bypass module and same outcome. Then we grabbed a new module and flashed all the same firmware options available onto it and same out come. He then tried going D2D and still the same result. It has to be the imobilizer wires, but even the tech said that its weird the bypass module is programming to the key correctly yet not starting. Im going to look at imobilizer wiring again. I followed the idatalink instructions on where to take the imobilizer wires from. The instructions show a pic of the plug and wire location on the plug for the imobilizer wires. I just noticed though that the wire colors I found dont match the wire color description in the idata instructions. Im sure I have the correct imobilizer wire plug as its the ony 4 wire plug near the steering column. Im digging into it this afternoon, it will start!

Does any body know what/where the imobilizer wires are? I used the #2 and #4 pins on the 4 pin white plug that attaches to the steering column. #2 pin has a pink wire #4 pin has a GREEN / WHITE wire

You could compare it to the Fortin EVO-ALL install guide.  Here is a link :

http://fortin.ca/download/15791/evo-all_nissan_infiniti.rev-20140507.pdfUse the Connection 3 Diagram.  Fortin started the Pin numbering from the other side of the plug and shows an illustrationof the White transponder connector location on the ignition switch.  It lists the TX or Data wire as either Orange or Brown.

Also double check that you didn't mix the Key side and the Vehicle side on the ADS AL-CA ORANGE / Black Data wire.

Soldering is fun!