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ignition wire harness


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linkarmy09 
Member - Posts: 49
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Joined: March 17, 2014
Location: Oklahoma, United States
Posted: August 05, 2014 at 11:01 AM / IP Logged  

Quick questions guys so in my alarm installation for my 97 accord, currently i have the accessories wire for my remote start to the ignition wire harness to the cable that provided power to my accessories, witch does not include my A/C (same harness different wire) so when i remote start my car it powers my radio, windows, accessories but not A/C witch is some what the point.

So i was thinking i can just change remote power wire to accessories to the cable that turns on my A/C but i was wondering if there was any way or what would be the best way to wire it up so both cables get power at remote start?

catback 
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Posted: August 05, 2014 at 11:40 AM / IP Logged  
One has to ponder the worth of working windows, wipers, radio, and yada yada in an empty car. ignition wire harness -- posted image.
If you want it that way you'll add a relay to power up the additional accessories wire. #86 & #87 to a fused +12v source, #85 to the RS Accessory (-) output, and #30 to your extra accessory wire.
linkarmy09 
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Joined: March 17, 2014
Location: Oklahoma, United States
Posted: August 05, 2014 at 12:05 PM / IP Logged  

i know what you mean by powering accesories in an empty car, but i have found it useful whenever im driveing with my family and i need to stop somwhere to get off the car and my wife and baby stay in the car, while i can remove the keys and take them with me. I want the A/C to work because oviously i dont want the car to get hot with my family inside and well the music helps my baby stay calm or to entratain her while im back.

So as you can see i have a reason behind wanting both to work, it not something of huge importance so if its not a must but i figured if i can make my family stay cool and entretained at the same time why not. ignition wire harness -- posted image.

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: August 05, 2014 at 5:25 PM / IP Logged  
I always thought that car had a second ACC, Directwire says no.
Check your loom BLACK/ white = starter, BLACK / YELLOW = ignition, yellow -ACC and I'm guessing if there's a WHITE/ black that's your second ACC.
Don't confuse it with the white constant 12V+ supply.
If that's the case and you have it and it tests out that way and your unit is DEI, Viper , Clifford, Python etc. then simply connect the pink/white H3 lead to it You won't need a relay.
You go into the programming, Menu 3 Feature 8 and change it from the default second ignition 2 second ACC.
linkarmy09 
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Joined: March 17, 2014
Location: Oklahoma, United States
Posted: August 05, 2014 at 6:01 PM / IP Logged  

You are correct howie, in what noramally other cars have all in one my car has two but i guess is somewhat common otherwise DEI alarms would give that option, not sure what other models or cars use similar setup.

I do remember seing that option, will definatly look it up in my manul today and will let you  guys know how it turns out.

howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: August 05, 2014 at 6:14 PM / IP Logged  
Hondas used a second ACC where other Japanese manufacturers used 2 x ignitions.
Probably to have extra functions such as windows, wipers etc. without having to turn the key past ACC.
My car's ignition loom has 3 x constants, starter, ignition 1,2 and 3 plus ACC which I have to treat as a second ignition 1 to fire the engine.
My car up to last week had 2 starters,3 ignitions and an ACC.
Many modern cars only a constant and an ignition, various DATA systems taking care of the rest until you take that too far as in the current GM ignition switch problem.
catback 
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Posted: August 06, 2014 at 1:50 AM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
Many modern cars only a constant and an ignition, various DATA systems taking care of the rest until you take that too far as in the current GM ignition switch problem.
I keep telling people the GM ignition switch issue isn't a problem, and it isn't a defect, it's a feature
Your honda has too many wires.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
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Posted: August 06, 2014 at 1:59 AM / IP Logged  
Actually agree you really need only two wires, output to control signal processor.
Edit push button switch driving a pic-axe. Data systems do the rest.
And wait for the East European software to remove your vehicle.
Chris Luongo 
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Joined: May 21, 2002
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Posted: August 06, 2014 at 6:39 AM / IP Logged  
Linkarmy,
You didn't tell us what kind of remote starter you have installed, but unless it's something very old or very cheap, it should have, generally speaking:
An ignition output
An accessory ouput
A second ignition output, which usually can be changed in the programming menu to behave as an accessory output
It should be just a simple matter of programming your Ignition 2 as accessory, and connect it to the heater/AC wire in the car's ignition harness.
Otherwise, time to look through the Relays section of the site and consider doing it with a relay.
linkarmy09 
Member - Posts: 49
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Joined: March 17, 2014
Location: Oklahoma, United States
Posted: August 12, 2014 at 5:32 PM / IP Logged  

ok so i didnt have time to do it sooner but got it to work. I was not able to get that second accesorie wire to work though. Tested in just about every way and was never able to get any power thorugh those wires. Anyway i went with the first option witch was with the accessorie output and a relay witch worked perfectly.

On an other note witch cable would provide a single pulse negative output when arming the alarm? the only one im thinking at the moment would be the factory alarm arm but was not too sure if it was just a single pulsed negative.

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