2000 dodge dakota door locks

Thank you I will do that.

Guys the door locks were working... I don't understand what happened! They were locking an unlocking fine with the DEI door lock module. Now the remote start can't lock/unlock and the switch won't lock/unlock! I am loosing my mind! I went to check the fuse that says PWR Locks and it looks fine. When I pull it out the interior lights turn off. Please someone help me out!!

Quick update.. The switch for the door locks don't work as well as the Viper remote anymore. However the factory remote locks and unlocks the car perfectly. I was thinking maybe I blew out the master switch in the driver side door? The way I wired the DEI module was like this.. The ORANGE / Violet and Pink/Violet wires I was told to use to wire up to the the DEI door lock module were very visible on the factory door lock/window switch. I followed the wires through the door grommet into the cabin. I tapped into the wires there. Now one of the wires just T tapped right into the wire. The other wire had to get cut and one end went to one wire and the other end went to another wire (on the DEI door lock module). It said motor side and switch side. This kind of confused me because both were coming from the door and I didn't know which end went where. Anyways... I wired it the way that made more sense and it worked! Hour later.. The switch and remote stopped working. WTH? Could I have wired it backwards and blown out something? I put the cut wires back together and left the one wire still T'd in (don't think that should cause an issue?) Still no go on the door lock switch. Meanwhile the factory remote works fine. Help! Lol Thanks in advanced.

Bump :(

Check all fuses When testing remove/isolate all suspect installations aka remove t-tapped wire or otherwise ensure it is not contributing to the fault The switch side of the ORANGE / Violet and Pink/Violet is the side the goes into the door. Master switch is the passenger side switch. When things are isolated and back to factory, test door switches with test light for correct operation.

Master switch is on the passenger side? Whoa! I will go through all the fuses, there are not many I think I looked through 90%. Do you guys know of any other fuses/relays? Also here is my main question. Lets say I blew the switch/fuse/relay somewhere.. Does the DEI module utilize that stuff? I though that relay module powered the locks itself stand alone of the car side stuff? My point is.. even if I blew something in the car.. shouldn't the remote start still control it? (I mean obviously not, but why not?)

You're tapped into the switch side of the lock system as a whole and as such your utilizing the rest of the lock system and running under the requirement that the rest of the system is normal and working. In other words, you don't have a direct connection and means to work the lock motors.

Your knowledge gives me goosebumps. Okay.. so it's something on the factory side. A small side note.. The passenger side window stopped working a day before I installed the remote start. I wonder if the master switch has anything to do with that too, or if it is just coincidence and a normal regulator/motor issue? Does anyone on here know if any hidden fuses or relays for the door locks? It's interesting how the factory remote locks and unlocks fine and the switches are just dead.. Too weird.

The window broke before you touch it so I'd stay that was a coincidence unless time travel becomes practically feasible in the next little bit. Power windows and power locks are separated circuits so one doesn't affect the other. The factory doesn't hide fuses but as you know your aftermarket installation has it's own fuses. The factory keyless connects directly to what would be the BCM and actuates the locks that way. The "BCM" controls the lock motors directly. Aside from possible blown fuses, if you wired the relay backwards/incorrectly you can in theory burn up switches and small wires. Hence the suggestion of utilizing a test light and checking the switches for proper power and function. Test lights can also make checking ATC and ATM fuses quick and easy instead of pulling them out, visually checking them, and then putting them back.

I tested the with a meter on those 2 wires I tapped into and it was showing like .20 volts.. I guess I should try to find the main power feed on the passenger side master switch. So is the BCM separate from the door switch (and what I messed with).. basically what I am asking is do you think the BCM is okay? Sorry for all the questions but your knowledge is huge for me.