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starter cut with remote start


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burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
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Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: August 07, 2014 at 8:24 AM / IP Logged  
Folks:
1989 Chevy S10 4X4, 4.3, 700R4, but that's not important right now...
I'm installing a piggybacked pair of DEI alarm and add-on remote start. The alarm has the normal 2-wire starter cut feature, and the remote start has (surprise, surprise) the capacity to remotely start the engine.... because, that's why they call it that. ;)
I could tag into the factory starter wire (from memory, subject to inaccuracy but I do believe it's the PURPLE wire, not the PINK as mentioned in the wiring chart here, because mine is the AT variant) at three different places: cut the factory wire, tack into it with the alarm's two wires (thus making the starter solenoid's circuit path travel through the alarm brain's NC contact, as it always will do in an alarm install), and then tag into the starter wire at another location for the remote start signal to engage the starter. This seems stupid, unnecessarily disturbing the factory wiring.
Seems much more reasonable to me, to take one of the alarm's starter-cut wires, splice it to the remote start's starter wire, and then solder both of those into the starter side of the cut factory starter wire. Take the remaining starter-cut wire and solder it to the switch-side of the factory starter wire. Tape and done.
No diodes needed, as the NO contact of the alarm's starter cut will act as a diode between the alarm and the start signal from the remote start ("act as a diode" not really accurate, unless you consider a diode is basically a gate valve- and this will be a mechanical gate valve, as an air-gap is created by the NO contact in the alarm's starter cut).
So, wiring this way, we disturb the factory wire much less (ALWAYS a good idea), the starter circuit is cut while alarm ARMED. When we Remote Start, the signal bypasses the alarm's starter-cut by way of being attached to the starter side of the wiring. Backfeed is avoided by the engaged alarm's NO contact. Although, a possible fly in the ointment is if the alarm disables the starter cut when the remote start engages, which I don't think will be the case. If that is the case, solder a diode inline with the starter cut's starter-side wire.
Any reasons this approach won't work?
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
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Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: August 07, 2014 at 8:27 AM / IP Logged  
Also, need to look into an anti-grind feature on this, thin that gets into utilizing the GWA for the remote start unit...
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
davep. 
Gold - Posts: 639
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Joined: May 27, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: August 12, 2014 at 10:04 AM / IP Logged  
You seem concerned about "back feeding" the switch-side of the starter circuit with the RS. Don't worry about it. Nothing happens. That circuit doesn't go anywhere except the key switch, to an 'open' circuit when the key is in OFF.
Here's how I installed a DEI 2-module RS and alarm in a 91 S-10:
Wire the alarm starter cut relay as per instructions in the alarm install guide. In a column-shifter automatic S-10, it is a Purple wire. (Manual trans or floor shifter automatic is a Yellow wire). Be sure #86 is to an IGN source or Howie will give you static about dead batteries. #85 is to orn/blk GWA from alarm.
Purple wire from RS goes to starter-side of starter cut relay.
Connect the orn/blk anti-grind output from the RS to #85 of the same relay. I insert a diode in both orn/blk wires, band facing the modules, although I'm not sure it's necessary to isolate them.
I got this procedure for using the starter cut relay for anti-grind as well from the Install Guide for the 551t stand-alone RS. It works.
How are you going to address the lack of a factory neutral-safety switch in the Blazer?
burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
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Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: August 14, 2014 at 2:57 PM / IP Logged  
For the alarm starter-cut, I am using the onboard relay.
I've been debating putting an anti-grind on this, but it's not exactly a quiet vehicle. One knows when it's running. Still, would be a nice feature to have if the wife ever drives it (she can be somewhat... dense... when things depart from the standard).
Which is why I'm going to put a RS in her truck, with antigrind ;)
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
soundnsecurity 
Gold - Posts: 2,711
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Joined: November 10, 2008
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: August 14, 2014 at 5:04 PM / IP Logged  
when working with separate starter kill and remote starter systems its really all just a debate on whether or not you want the remote starter to be able to bypass the alarm and start the car. if i was a thief and i saw a remote start unit under the dash then i would know to try to activate the remote starter through the activation wire and then cut the brake shutdown wire.
if theft is at all a serious issue in your mind then i would install the remote start's starter wire on the "key side" of the starter kill this way it has to run through the alarm in order to start.
the other side of the coin is that you would need to disarm the alarm to use the remote start, or do some extra work to shunt the starter kill relay during remote start only.
and FYI, the starter kill relay will not act like a diode, the relay stays closed all of the time except when you turn the key to ignition while the alarm is armed, it does not activate while the alarm is just armed because this would cause the battery to drain more quickly.

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