the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

2012 civic remote start


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 16, 2014 at 11:05 PM / IP Logged  
My step-daughter asked me to install a remote car starter in her 2012 Honda Civic(automatic). Although I've never done an install on a Honda, it looks pretty straight-forward. I just want some reassurance on my install and maybe some tips. I plan on installing an Compustar FT-6200s using a FLCAN bypass d2d(flashed with ADS protocol of course).
2012 civic remote start -- posted image.
2012 civic remote start -- posted image.
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 16, 2014 at 11:07 PM / IP Logged  
Sorry if the images I clipped from my Excel spreadsheet appear kind of small. It's the only way I could post it.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 17, 2014 at 5:48 AM / IP Logged  

That car doesn't have built-in Anti-Grind, so you might consider using the supplied Starter Kill relay and cutting the Civic's Yellow Starter wire.

Also, beware that most of the vehicle wiring ( door locks and transponder ) is very thin gauge.  Just did a few 2014 Accord's and either I'm getting old or they are down to about 28 gauge for a lot of the vehicle wiring........  2012 civic remote start -- posted image.

Soldering is fun!
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 17, 2014 at 8:29 AM / IP Logged  
I wasn't sure if the car already had anti grind protection built in or not. Now that I know it doesn't, I'll probably do the anti-grind relay.
Thanks for the heads-up on the thin wires. Nothing worse than having to stand on your head under a dash and strip a 22ga wire using only one hand. Ugh! Sometimes I wonder if it's not just easier to cut, strip, resplice and heatshrink.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 17, 2014 at 12:55 PM / IP Logged  
Shafferny the second method is far better but time and "getting at" are against us. Kregg and I both now use magnifying glasses!
One European GM car uses a 57 pin quadlock plug BEHIND the fusebox/BCM with multiple colour repeats. I spent 6 hours last winter tracing the car only staring in get you home mode because I'd broken a thin CAN wire whilst soldering to it.
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 17, 2014 at 3:00 PM / IP Logged  
Which brings up another question...how do you go about insulating these extremely small wires so you have a fully insulated wire and something that's secure? With these wires getting smaller and smaller, the insulation is no longer just for insulating the conductor, but for structural integrity as well. I usually put a small zip tie 3-4" up from the splice and then tape or heat shrink over the connection. Sometimes the tape gets bulky and sloppy because the wires are so darn small but I really haven't come up with anything better.
BTW, do all my wiring connections look good for this particular install?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 17, 2014 at 3:31 PM / IP Logged  
Zip tie second.
My favourite. Cut OEM wire, wire to be joined, strip 10mm (c. 3/8) an inch back solder one side of cut wire to the stripped portion, heat shrink then slide a fresh piece of heat shrink over then butt joint soldered to other end of cut OEM wire and last slide and heat the heat shrink over that last joint.
Wait until you get to do an E46 BMW or getting at wiring on a VW down adjacent to the throttle in a right hand drive version.
Talk about eye, shoulder and muscle strain.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: August 17, 2014 at 5:30 PM / IP Logged  

Sorry, got carried away complaining about those thin gauge wires...

Your listed connections are correct.  The ADS AL-CA w/HA3 install guide should be very accurate for the wires they

list in the Type 2 diagram. 

A few notes...

1.  Looks like you want to go with D2D.  Default Compustar FT6200s programming is for Tach Mode, but you must
     still do the Tach Learn procedure.   Very easy with the Compustar.
2.  The bypass module should supply the foot Brake signal via D2D, so no need to hardwire to the Civic.
3.  If you want Horn confirmations from the Compustar, connect the Horn output to the Civic.  Easy to find in the
     steering column.
4.  You can update the Firmware on the Compustar without a Blade module installed using your ADS USB cable.
     Current Version is 7.15.  The big bonus is that while you are there, you can also make any necessary changes to the
     4 programming tables plus Special Option Group 2.  PM me if you need more info.
5.  Which brings us to the Rear Defrost.  Here is the info from AudioVox :
     Rear Defrost  LIGHT GREEN  (-)  @ MICU MODULE AT REAR OF INTERIOR FUSE BOX UNDER DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH
     Just choose one of the un-used POC's, set it to Defrost Type 17 in the Special Options Group, set Menu 3-14
     and connect the corresponding wire to the Civic.  Without a Temp Probe, you can only do a fixed time after a
     remote start.  Could install a Winter/Summer switch if you felt the need.

Soldering is fun!
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: August 17, 2014 at 5:36 PM / IP Logged  
Don't laugh Kregg but Woof l and 2 have the rear defrost aka HRW in the Queen's English come on automatically when the temperature goes to 51f. or below.
shafferny 
Copper - Posts: 240
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2008
Location: New York, United States
Posted: August 17, 2014 at 6:24 PM / IP Logged  
kreg357 wrote:

Sorry, got carried away complaining about those thin gauge wires...

Your listed connections are correct.  The ADS AL-CA w/HA3 install guide should be very accurate for the wires they

list in the Type 2 diagram. 

A few notes...

1.  Looks like you want to go with D2D.  Default Compustar FT6200s programming is for Tach Mode, but you must
     still do the Tach Learn procedure.   Very easy with the Compustar.
2.  The bypass module should supply the foot Brake signal via D2D, so no need to hardwire to the Civic.
3.  If you want Horn confirmations from the Compustar, connect the Horn output to the Civic.  Easy to find in the
     steering column.
4.  You can update the Firmware on the Compustar without a Blade module installed using your ADS USB cable.
     Current Version is 7.15.  The big bonus is that while you are there, you can also make any necessary changes to the
     4 programming tables plus Special Option Group 2.  PM me if you need more info.
5.  Which brings us to the Rear Defrost.  Here is the info from AudioVox :
     Rear Defrost  LIGHT GREEN  (-)  @ MICU MODULE AT REAR OF INTERIOR FUSE BOX UNDER DRIVERS SIDE OF DASH
     Just choose one of the un-used POC's, set it to Defrost Type 17 in the Special Options Group, set Menu 3-14
     and connect the corresponding wire to the Civic.  Without a Temp Probe, you can only do a fixed time after a
     remote start.  Could install a Winter/Summer switch if you felt the need.

2. Good catch. Just so used to connecting it that I forgot the FLCAN handles that.
3. Looks like it's a (-)orange wire at the horn according to the wiring on commandocaralarms.com I'll have to test it just to be sure...that is, if she wants it hooked up.
4. I just did this on my wife's '09 Wrangler. I updated the firmware on the CM6200 and flashed the ADS-AL CA bypass. I REALLY like the fact you can set the special options that way. This is also part of the reason I stopped using DEI stuff. The Compustar stuff is soooooooo much more user friendly!
5. If I have time with her car I'll look for the defrost wire and try to hook it up. If not, I'll at least set the program option that way I can always do it at a later date.
One other thing, I saw that the truck release doesn't work while remote started. I read somewhere that there's a green wire(+) in the driver's kick(I think) that can be triggered. I should be able to wire the GREEN / WHITE wire(pin 6 of the CN1 connector) to it for the trunk release as long as I change the internal jumper on the CM6200 to "trunk release" instead of "parking light output".
Page of 2

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Friday, March 29, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer