remote start viper 554r

Didn't mean to upset to get BOLD letters. Trying things from two separate people at same time and jumping from switching/splicing relay wiring on one from pink to black then talking about checking purple wire possibly in same relay when there isn't got confusing. My apologies..

The point is you should be testing ALL of them a relay clicking simply means the coil is working, what if you have a blown fuse on the supply side or the internal switching is burnt out? Frankly listening for it to click won't tell you anything.

howie ll wrote: RELAY 4 for gods sake.

Relay4 All reds 12v all the time Small purple (+) 12v idle Large Purple (-) 12v idle Remote start activated All reds 12v Small purple drops to 0 Large Purple drops to 0 Have checked all the fuses as mentioned before on both sides of circuit for power and replaced all the fuses to verify also. Replaced all the relays in groups of 4 to make sure one wasn't faulty. Have checked all the other wire combos as all people here have instructed to do so and posted the results as I could Like I mentioned this stuff is all brand new to me as far as RS/Alarms and doing the best I can on the limited knowledge I have of them to test them. I know it can get frustrating for those that do it all the time trying to help a newbie troubleshoot but thank you all regardless.

Voltage readings at idle with no remote start activated or key in ignition-- + reading pos voltage state   - reading neg voltage state Relay 1 87   +12v   Fused large red wire also connected to Relay 2-87 86   +12v Red wire-connected in series to 1,2,3,4-86 30   -12v   Large Pink with white trace 85   -12v   Med size pink wire also connected to 85 on Relay 2 Relay 2 87   +12v   Connected to Relay 2 through fused red wire 86   +12v   Red wire-connected in series to 1,2,3,4-86 30   -12v   Solid pink large wire 87a -12v   Yellow wire from 5 wire ribbon. 85   +12v   Small pink wire from 5 wire ribbon cable also connected to relay 1-85. This is also has tap to bright pink wire running to bank of two relays Relay3 87 +12v    Connects to second large Red Fused wire 86 +12V    Red wire-connected in series to 1,2,3,4-86 30 -12v    Large orange wire 85 +12v    Small orange wire from 5 wire ribbon cable Relay4 87 +12v    Connected to Relay 3 fused wire 86 +12v    Small red wire from 5 wire ribbon then Red wire-connected in series to 1,2,3,-86 also 30 -12v    Large Purple wire 85 +12v    Small purple wire from 5 wire ribbon cable Other relays in 2 bank one Relay5 86 +12v   Large red wire - jumps and connects to 87 also 87 +12v   comes in from 86 and then out to one side of fuse and then to relay 6-87 85 +12v   Bright pink wire that also jumps back to relay two 85 30 0v     Large Pink wire with white tracer Relay 6 87   +12v   Large red wire from other side of fused connection from 87 on relay5 86   +12v   Red wire from 87 connected to this 85   +12v   small orange wire that also runs to Relay 3 orange 85 30    0v    Large orange wire Single Relay 7 All of these wires run back to ignition harness wiring 87a 0v     Black wire- connects to one side of ignition RED / blue tracer. Installer cut this wire in half to do so 86    -12v   Med Yellow wire- connects to blue/green trace. Its connected also to large pink wire from relay 2-30 85    0v    Orange wire- goes up in dash along with another small red wire to ?? 30    -12v   Green wire-Goes to other side of RED / blue tracer ignition wire and is also joined with large purple wire going to relay 4-30

On relay 4 with ignition on, you should have 12V+ at 86 0v at 30 and open circuit at small purple. With ignition on, start to be activated small purple should go to 0v and large to 12V+. With the ignition on, try grounding the thin purple if the relay clicks you've either got no supply at 87 or the relay has failed. Check voltage at 87, should be either 12v+ constant or with ignition live.

All I need to know is specifically what isn't working? Can you start the truck and then do a pit-stop/takeover at this time (since rewiring the thin pink)? Because it may be easier for some. Relay 1 = Second Ignition relay Relay 2 = Primary Ignition relay Relay 3 = Accessory Relay Relay 4 = Starter Relay Relay 5 = Additional (Third) Ignition relay Relay 6 = Additional Accessory Relay Relay 7 = Starter Kill/Anti-grind relay Relays 1,2,3,5,6 should show 12v when the remote start first comes on. Relay 1,2,5 should remain on when the vehicle cranks. Relay 3 and 6 will drop out during cranking Relay 4 will only show 12v (come on) during cranking. The vehicle has two ignition wires and two accessory wires, not sure what the previous installer is using the additional/third ignition relay for. Putting your DMM on the relay's pin 30 and seeing if it goes to +12v when you turn the key on will determine if it's wired to an ignition wire - It doesn't have to be as I'm only seeing a max of two ignition wires for a 2000 F-150 w/ rear abs.

howie ll wrote: On relay 4 with ignition on, you should have 12V+ at 86 0v at 30 and open circuit at small purple. With ignition on, start to be activated small purple should go to 0v and large to 12V+. With the ignition on, try grounding the thin purple if the relay clicks you've either got no supply at 87 or the relay has failed. Check voltage at 87, should be either 12v+ constant or with ignition live.

With ignition to on and small purple wire grounded, engine fires up and runs instantly 87 is 12v constant and or with ignition on voltages with key to on Large purple has 0v Small purple has 12v Start to activate Large purple goes to 12v Small purple voltage drops significantly but since key is in Run position it will fire remote start and start engine and voltage goes back up.

catback wrote: All I need to know is specifically what isn't working? Can you start the truck and then do a pit-stop/takeover at this time (since rewiring the thin pink)? Because it may be easier for some. Relay 1 = Second Ignition relay Relay 2 = Primary Ignition relay Relay 3 = Accessory Relay Relay 4 = Starter Relay Relay 5 = Additional (Third) Ignition relay Relay 6 = Additional Accessory Relay Relay 7 = Starter Kill/Anti-grind relay Relays 1,2,3,5,6 should show 12v when the remote start first comes on. Relay 1,2,5 should remain on when the vehicle cranks. Relay 3 and 6 will drop out during cranking Relay 4 will only show 12v (come on) during cranking. The vehicle has two ignition wires and two accessory wires, not sure what the previous installer is using the additional/third ignition relay for. Putting your DMM on the relay's pin 30 and seeing if it goes to +12v when you turn the key on will determine if it's wired to an ignition wire - It doesn't have to be as I'm only seeing a max of two ignition wires for a 2000 F-150 w/ rear abs.

With pink wire bypassed with new wire I can put key to run position, activate remote start and engine starts and runs. I can just turn key back and remove and engine keeps running until I hit brake or hit RS buttons on remote now.

mike leiter wrote: catback wrote: All I need to know is specifically what isn't working? Can you start the truck and then do a pit-stop/takeover at this time (since rewiring the thin pink)? Because it may be easier for some. Relay 1 = Second Ignition relay Relay 2 = Primary Ignition relay Relay 3 = Accessory Relay Relay 4 = Starter Relay Relay 5 = Additional (Third) Ignition relay Relay 6 = Additional Accessory Relay Relay 7 = Starter Kill/Anti-grind relay Relays 1,2,3,5,6 should show 12v when the remote start first comes on. Relay 1,2,5 should remain on when the vehicle cranks. Relay 3 and 6 will drop out during cranking Relay 4 will only show 12v (come on) during cranking. The vehicle has two ignition wires and two accessory wires, not sure what the previous installer is using the additional/third ignition relay for. Putting your DMM on the relay's pin 30 and seeing if it goes to +12v when you turn the key on will determine if it's wired to an ignition wire - It doesn't have to be as I'm only seeing a max of two ignition wires for a 2000 F-150 w/ rear abs. With pink wire bypassed with new wire I can put key to run position, activate remote start and engine starts and runs. I can just turn key back and remove and engine keeps running until I hit brake or hit RS buttons on remote now.

BUT I can not start truck normally with key and then activate PITSTOP and remove key. RS buttons are pushed, it beeps and shows running status on truck but shuts right off when key is turned off.

mike leiter wrote: mike leiter wrote: catback wrote: All I need to know is specifically what isn't working? Can you start the truck and then do a pit-stop/takeover at this time (since rewiring the thin pink)? Because it may be easier for some. Relay 1 = Second Ignition relay Relay 2 = Primary Ignition relay Relay 3 = Accessory Relay Relay 4 = Starter Relay Relay 5 = Additional (Third) Ignition relay Relay 6 = Additional Accessory Relay Relay 7 = Starter Kill/Anti-grind relay Relays 1,2,3,5,6 should show 12v when the remote start first comes on. Relay 1,2,5 should remain on when the vehicle cranks. Relay 3 and 6 will drop out during cranking Relay 4 will only show 12v (come on) during cranking. The vehicle has two ignition wires and two accessory wires, not sure what the previous installer is using the additional/third ignition relay for. Putting your DMM on the relay's pin 30 and seeing if it goes to +12v when you turn the key on will determine if it's wired to an ignition wire - It doesn't have to be as I'm only seeing a max of two ignition wires for a 2000 F-150 w/ rear abs. With pink wire bypassed with new wire I can put key to run position, activate remote start and engine starts and runs. I can just turn key back and remove and engine keeps running until I hit brake or hit RS buttons on remote now. BUT I cant start truck normally with key and then activate PITSTOP and remove key. RS buttons are pushed, it beeps and shows running status on truck but shuts right off when key is turned off.

DISREGARD that last update as the jumper wire was off as I was testing other relays again and it got knocked off. I was waiting to attach permanently till we were sure it was pink wire issue. With Pink jumper bypassed with new wire: I CAN do a pitstop takeover now and the truck keeps running. I can do it either by putting key in ignition to run and pushing RS buttons and then removing key and keeps running OR I can start truck normally and then while running push RS buttons on remote, it beeps and shows running with countdown timer and i can pull keys out with it still running.