re: audison bit one.1

Hi all,

I am gearing up to begin my install, hopefully next weekend. I have questions on a few items that have confused me about the Bit One.1. I have read the manual, the FAQ's and searched this website extensively. However, there a few things that still confuse me and a few other things I would like to clarify...Please see my signature for full system details. Here goes:

1) I am going to keep my OEM source unit (no nav., but I do have an OEM 10 disc changer). I am replacing the OEM Infinity amp and speakers and adding a sub. My questions lie here: After I remove the wires from the head unit that go to the Infinity amp and remove the amp, should I connect those same wires into the "speaker in" on the Bit One.1, using channels 1 (Auto Turn-on jumper removed), 2, 3, 4, 7 and 8 then out to the amp using the same channels?

2) I have 4 GA power wire ran through the firewall and fused appropriately. A fused distribution block (one 4 GA. input and two 4/8 GA outputs) will split to each the Bit One.1 and the PDX-5. I am curious if I can run 4 GA in and out of the Dist. Block to the PDX-5 from one output and (since the input is much smaller) run approximately 14 GA from the Dist. Block into the Bit One.1's positive input and the same GA ground. Or, should I go ahead with 8 GA from the Dist. Block to the amp and the same ~14 GA to the Bit One.1? Or, (and I doubt this will work) run the 4 GA to the PDX-5 and use a 14 GA "jumper" wire from the positive of the amp to the positive input to the Bit One.1?

3) I plan on grounding the amp and the Bit One.1 to separate locations in the car.

4) Is a 14 GA power wire sufficient for the Bit One.1? If 14 Ga (or similar size) is appropriate, what is the best way to secure that thin wire in an 8 GA opening at the Dist. Block? Should I just fold it over itself a few times to add some additional mass, then tighten the set screws?

5) Can anyone recommend an accurate, pc based RTA/O-scope program for a DIY'er? Of course, relatively inexpensive is best, but all suggestions are welcome! I have little funds to give to my local shop to have them set up/tune the Bit One.1 for me.

6) What is the best GA wire for remote turn-on? I plan on running the remote wire from the head unit to the Bit One.1 and the remote out to the PDX-5 as the manual states. I have never fused the remote wire before, but it seems that there are some folks who recommend doing that...should I do so?

7) I am so confused on the MEM and KEY Switch inputs on the Bit One.1!! Can anyone tell me if those are needed in my case or even what they do? I think the language barrier has me down for the count on this one!!

I apologize for the length and quantity of the questions, just want to do everything properly. Thank you all so much for your time and suggestions!! I'm excited to get this installed and enjoy some dynamic music in the Jeep - it's been way too long!!

Jeff

2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4, 4.7L V8, Mechman 170 amp Alternator, Big 3, Factory Source Unit, Audison Bit One.1, Alpine PDX-5, Seas Prestige 1", Silver Flute 6.5", TC sounds Epic 10" Sealed.

while i have no experience with the BIT one, i can answer most of your questions. for starters, yes you can use your distribution block to have one 4g input and a 4g and 14g output. the current draw for the audison is minimal to be worried about taxing that 4 gauge wire along with the PDX-5. 4 gauge is recommended for that amp as way to supply maximum current when needed but PDX amp should also be well within the limits of a "TRUE" 4 gauge wire. what brand of wire will you be using? is it aluminum wire or copper wire? it matters... copper is best but costs a little more. same goes for the 14 gauge for the bit one, if it is a true 14 gauge you will be fine. i would not use a jumper wire from the amp to the audison as the amp could rob power from the BIT one being first in line. typically i will use entirely separate power leads when i use multiple devices and using the right fuse for each different size wire. if you use the distribution block to run your 14g wire from then you need to fuse the 14g close to the distro block because the main fuse will not protect the smaller gauge wire from burning if something goes wrong. as long as you create good grounds in both locations by sanding down to bare metal and using quality connectors and screws then it will be fine that you have different grounding points. also you may want to upgrade your factory ground from battery to frame and alternator + to battery +, and also the engine ground to frame. this is known as the big 3 upgrade, this will keep your power flowing easily and your potential for noise at a minimum.

Hi soundnsecurity, thanks for the reply!

Strange, I've been sitting with nothing to do at work for about 4 weeks and starting yesterday, I've been crazy busy! 

I am using all Stinger wire for my install and according to the website it is "Pure (OFC) Oxygen Free Copper with 1666 strands of wire."

I will not use a jumper wire between the PDX and Bit One.1.  I had thought about it only because I was concerned about my dumb butt tightening the set screw too much on such a small guage wire and essentially tearing it apart. 

That is a great lesson - the amp, being first in line, may rob power from the Bit One.  That didn't cross my mind - and it's those pieces of information that keeps me coming back here to learn.  Also, you mention "you need to fuse the 14g close to the distro block because the main fuse will not protect the smaller gauge wire from burning if something goes wrong..."  I'm using a fused dist. block (of course, with the fuse onboard at the point of wire GA change).  Will this be sufficient?  I shouldn't need another fuse after the dist. block on the 14 GA itself, correct?  Apologies, as that makes me question myself a bit...I am thinking about a 10 amp fuse in the dist. block - I can't imagine the Bit One.1 would need anything larger than that, although I don't know what is inside.

I will sand down to bare metal at the grounding points as you suggest; that is of course if I can't locate any factory grounding points.  I thought about using only one grounding point, but I read on BCAE's website that when using an amp and a processor it's best to separate the grounding points.  I know that is written in there, although I'm not sure I could find it again...

And, yes, I have upgraded the Big 3 with 1/0 GA at the time my alternater and Red Top were installed.

Again, THANK YOU for your time in answering my questions!  Hopefully, at some point, I will be knowledgeable enough to help someone out the way that youself and this website has helped me!!

p.s. Does anyone reading this have any experience with the Bit One.1?  I can't wait to see how this piece sounds after I have it tuned the way I hope to!

2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4, 4.7L V8, Mechman 170 amp Alternator, Big 3, Factory Source Unit, Audison Bit One.1, Alpine PDX-5, Seas Prestige 1", Silver Flute 6.5", TC sounds Epic 10" Sealed.

its no problem to answer any of your questions, i learned a lot of what i know from reading posts from this site too and then applying it in real life when i was a noob audio/electronics tech which was about 10 years ago. i see it as only fair that i give back and help a new line of DIYers the same way. anyway, back to the task at hand, if you are using a fused distro block then that is perfect as long as you use the appropriate size fuse for the size wire. the fuse is to protect the wire not the device. the device should have its own protection built into it. if you fuse the wire too high then that makes it possible to start a fire when the wire shorts out and burns. in fact i would use a smaller fuse than the wire calls for. i think a true 14 gauge wire is good for around 20 amps so using a 15 amp fuse would be safest and still enough to run your BIT one. i wouldnt go out of your way to find a factory ground for the BIT one, the best thing for aftermarket equipment especially high end equipment is having the shortest length ground as possible within reason. this becomes more and more important as the power of your equipment goes up because a longer ground will have more resistance to electricity and it forces your equipment to work harder and create more heat. this isnt a huge deal for the audison but you'll definitely want to make as short a ground as possible for your alpine. i try to keep my grounds for amps under 12 inches if possible. if you are worried about the set screw destroying your wire then take the end and twist it then fold it then solder the end a little bit to make it solid then tighten it down with the set screw.

Thanks for the reply, Soundnsecurity. I am with you 100% on everything covered here...in fact I was hoping to be completed with my install, but it did not happen. Everything was going fine; I had made "final" connections from the OEM Source, through the Bit One.1, to the PDX-5, out to the tweeters in the dash and the 6.5's in the front doors. HERE WE GO: Let's put the fuse in and connect Negative Battery...Start the car...Turn on the CD...NOTHING! Well, not exactly nothing - If I were to turn the volume to max (38/38), and hold the speakers right next to my ear; I could barely make out what song was on...meaning, such a low volume that I had to concentrate to know what was playing - by my calculations, the antithesis to SQ car audio. Does anyone have any thoughts? Are one of these possible? Since I have removed the OEM Infinity amp, could the source unit not have any onboard power to run the speakers, meaning the OEM amp is necessary before the Bit One.1? Do I need a different piece of equipment? --OR-- Did I just get freaked out and it is a simple gain problem on the amp? Is this typical for the Bit One.1 until I begin the work with my laptop? Could I have hooked up Left Front, etc. to the wrong channel? (I thought I had read in another thread that the Bit One.1 is fussy and wants the connections that it expects.) I AM SO CONFUSED! I am under the assumption that the OEM tweeters were "tapped" into the front 6x9's to acquire sound...So, I have used Right Front as Channel One, Left Front as Channel Two, and so on. Please help! I am cool driving to work this week with my car half torn apart and no sound, but I would like to finish as soon as possible. Thanks in advance for any suggestions! Jeff2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 4x4, 4.7L V8, Mechman 170 amp Alternator, Big 3, Factory Source Unit, Audison Bit One.1, Alpine PDX-5, Seas Prestige 1", Silver Flute 6.5", TC sounds Epic 10" Sealed.

more than likely you will need to use the output side of the factory amp to feed signal to the audison. if you are using its high level inputs then it is expecting a high level signal meaning a signal that is fit to drive a speaker directly. also in anything aftermarket that deals with channel 1-4 channel 1 will always be the left front (drivers side) then right front will be channel 2, left rear is channel 3 and right rear is channel 4.