08 ford fusion avital 5303 r/s dball2

I am planning to install an Avital 5303 R/S, along with the DB-ALL2 immobilizer bypass in a 2008 Ford Fusion with factory alarm. I am wiring the bypass D2D, which according to the instruction, I would not need to connect the unlock output from the bypass to the R/S. Since I do not connect the unlock wire, would this mean I do not need the diode? Also, would I need the diode on the keysense / accessory disarm wire if only one of those wires are required to disarm the factory alarm? The diagram Here on pages 6 and 8 are what I am referring to.

You do not need the diode on the unlock wire in D2D mode, it's purpose in W2W mode is to isolate a command signal to only originating from the remote start unit and not the car. Since you using only keysense or accessory and NOT tying together both then you do not need a diode. There's no risk of back-feeding in such a scenario. So far your on the right track, keep up the good work

Thank you for clearing that up so quickly. Since the diode was not within the dotted section, and I could not imagine a reason to diode isolate a single wire, it kinda threw me off.

I did this install today, however, I was not able to finish it because the owner thought I was joking when I said 2-3 hours. I was not able to connect the door pins or the factory alarm disarm yet. Does anyone know which wire I should use for the door pin? The diagram states the door pin is a blue (-) wire in drivers kick. The problem is that this wire tests (+) until dome light goes out. Also, does the DBALL2 care if the door pin wire is (+) or (-) for the R.A.P. off connection? 2008 Ford Fusion / Avital 5303 / DBALL2.

Door Trigger      GREEN/ purple      - N.C.      driver kick or SJB, conn. C, pin 11 Notes: The SJB (Smart Junction Box) is the fuse box under the driver side dash. The Dball2 isn't concerned with polarity, it triggers the RAP shutdown by breaking the driver door pin wire via internal relay.