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viper issue


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hooskerdoo 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2014
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: September 28, 2014 at 11:00 AM / IP Logged  
hello 12volt, I'm installing a viper 5706v into a 01 acura integra and i just finished wiring everything but i can't get the remote start to learn the tach which i figured would be the first thing to do (the control center button never lights up). When i hit the "alarm" button the car actually tried to start. when i hit "remote start" the car continuously tried starting and i had to pull the battery connection. i have the power wires disconnected now and was wondering if someone could double check my connections. thanks in advance.
Main Harness
h1/1 red + 12v constant input: 12v constant white, backup battery gray wire (12v constant)
h1/2 black - chassis ground: ground
h1/3 brown + siren output: siren
h1/4 WHITE/ brown parking light isolation: NC
h1/5 white parking light output: parking lights RED / black (green plug abouve fuse box)
h1/6 orange - ground when armed: 507m tilt sensor orange wire.
Remote Start
h2/1 NC
h2/2 RED / black +fused 12v accessory/starter input: 12v constant white
h2/3 pink/black +flex relay input 87a key side(if required) of flex relay: NC
h2/4 pink/white +ignition 2/ flex relay output: NC
h2/5 red +fused 12v ignition 1 input: 12v constant white
h2/6 green +starter input (key side of starter kill): starter BLACK/ white keyside will show 12v while cranking, starter side wont show a voltage
h2/7 violet +starter output (car side of starter kill): starter BLACK/ white
h2/8 orange +accessory output: accessory yellow wire
h2/9 RED / white +fused 12v ignition 2/ flex relay input 87: 12v constant white
h2/10 pink +ignition 1 input/output: ignition BLACK / YELLOW
Auxiliary/ Shutdown/ Trigger harness
h3/1 pink/white - 200ma ignition 2/ flex output: NC
h3/2 blue/white - 200ma 2nd status /rear defogger output: BLACK/ blue at clutch interlock system (cis) clutch override
h3/3 RED / white - 200ma trunk release output: NC
h3/4 BLACK / YELLOW - 200ma dome light output: splice into negative door trigger input (green wire) diode isolate
h3/5 dark blue - 200ma status output: NC
h3/6 WHITE/ black - 200ma aux 3 output: NC
h3/7 WHITE/ violet - 200ma aux 1 output: NC
h3/8 ORANGE / black - 200ma aux 4 output: Nc
h3/9 gray - hood pin input (nc or no): hood pin
h3/10 blue - trunk pin/instant trigger input (nc or no): 520t battery neggative blue wire, 507m tilt sensor neggative blue wire
h3/11 WHITE/ blue activation input: NC
h3/12 violet/white tachometer input: tach wire at guage cluster, blue wire
h3/13 BLACK/ white - neutral safety/parking brake input: wire at base of ebrake
h3/14 GREEN/ black - 200ma factory alarm disarm output: NC
h3/15 green - door input: lt. GREEN/ red larger gray plug behind cruise control
h3/16 BROWN / black -200ma horn honk output: blue/green steering column harness
h3/17 pink - 200ma ignition 1 output: NC
h3/18 violet + door input: NC
h3/19 volet/black - 200ma aux 2 output: NC
h3/20 brown + brake shutdown input: GREEN / WHITE brake wire switch above pedal
h3/21 violet / YELLOW - 200ma starter output: NC
h3/22 gray/black - diesel wait to start: NC
h3/23 orange - 200ma accessory output: NC
h3/24 GREEN / WHITE - 200ma factory alarm arm output: NC
smokeman1 
Platinum - Posts: 1,588
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Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: September 28, 2014 at 3:07 PM / IP Logged  
Is the car an auto trans or manual?
And not tying to ask a dumb question is the car starter wire cut for the green and violet connections?
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 28, 2014 at 3:18 PM / IP Logged  
Also by-pass?
I can't see anything wrong with the wiring, BTW shouldn't there be a keysense connected?
You shouldn't need dome supervision, the car already has it so disconnect the H2 BLACK / YELLOW.
hooskerdoo 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2014
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: September 28, 2014 at 5:27 PM / IP Logged  
I forgot to mentionthe car is a manual and I do have a pkh34 imobilizer bypass but I haven't plugged it in yet. And I don't think I need a key sense wire connected.
Yes the starter wire (BLACK/ white) is cut in half with violet going to car side and green going to key side. I don't have any relays installed yet tho so would that be the problem?
Also I have 5 seperate 12v wires so 3 of them are going to my 12v constant wire in the ignition harness while h1/1 and the 520t power wires are going to a 12v source on the fuse box which I confirmed with a multimeter. When I connected the 12v wires to the fuse box the car tried starting without me hitting any buttons...scared the crap out me. Any ideas what would cause this?
smokeman1 
Platinum - Posts: 1,588
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: September 28, 2014 at 5:56 PM / IP Logged  
Have you tried to cancel the remote start by hitting the brake to shut it down?
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hooskerdoo 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2014
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: September 28, 2014 at 6:17 PM / IP Logged  
No I haven't tried that yet.
I just inspected the alarm and found one of the pins for the control center/valet button was bent so I fixed that and recconnected all the 12v wires. I then reconnect the battery terminal and my alarm immediately started going off and my car was trying to crank over at the same time. This is nuts.
catback 
Silver - Posts: 703
Silver spacespace
Joined: August 13, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: September 28, 2014 at 7:08 PM / IP Logged  
As said before what you've listed looks good although I would probably diode isolate the 520t and 507m.
As for things to check, I'd recheck the aux harness and make sure the right wires are being used, that none of the pins are bent, and that it's not connected upside down.
smokeman1 
Platinum - Posts: 1,588
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2009
Location: Wisconsin, United States
Posted: September 28, 2014 at 7:50 PM / IP Logged  
Could try to disconnect the violet wire to the starter while you do your trouble shooting to determine what is wrong. At least it should keep the starter from cranking.
Stuck relay in the unit?
Check the end of the violet wire for voltage once it is disconnected.
When all else fails, Read the Instructions
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hooskerdoo 
Member - Posts: 8
Member spacespace
Joined: September 14, 2014
Location: Missouri, United States
Posted: September 28, 2014 at 9:07 PM / IP Logged  
Lol good idea smoke, I'll give that a try tomorrow.
Catback I'm pretty sure I used the correct wires but I'll double check that and the harnesses. I didn't know you could put them in backwords so I'll definitely check that too.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 29, 2014 at 2:09 AM / IP Logged  
You have your plug references incorrect, thus I'm starting to worry about other things.
You switched H2 with H3 in your first post.
By chance is the WHITE/ blue on H2 confused with the blue/white?
That will do what you described, I know because I pulled that trick with a key sense wire in a Toyota recently, as soon as you pushed the key into the ignition, off it went.
PS I did an 05 Civic Type R recently, until I did the key sense you couldn't unlock the vehicle during R/Start.
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