delay relay pin out needed

Hi Folks, I need help with wiring this Hella Delay On Operate Relay for a dual battery setup on a three position switch. I want: Ignition Position - Triggers the AUX Battery Contact Relay after a delay so when I start the engine it will be on the main battery only and then connect the AUX battery after the delay. Off Position - Main Battery Only, No AUX Battery Contact Relay trigger. Battery Position - Triggers the AUX Battery Contact Relay with Ignition Off (or on)

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See texasindustrialelectric.com/relays_996152151.asp. #15 is to the +12V on signal (IGN) and the others are normal; #31 is GND. But that's only a 10A relay which is probably not enough for an aux battery bigger than ~7AH - especially if AGM. And you have not shown the 2 fuses requires in your circuit (unless the batteries are colocated). Actually I suggest self resetting circuit breakers - definitely if up to 50A inclusive - they're only ~$10 each. But I'd suggest a proper battery isolator - eg, search "oldspark uibi" for a chargeLight controlled isolator, else use typical voltage controlled aka smart isolators. (Use them to switch a bigger relay if needed.)

Thank You, Ooop! Sorry, I hope you say that because I did not indicate the time delay-on-operate relay is to supply 12v to the bigger relay that requires: 7.5v minimum to pull it in. 3.0v Minimum to hold it in. Coil has 7.7 Ohms or resistance. Here is a Link to the Coil Then choose the "Sales Bulletin" link to see the specs. I'm doing this so not to jam both batteries in at start-up, and will most likely set the timer up for 900 seconds(15 minutes)to let the main recover and charge alone for a while and then let them combine. The on position will be the default. The off position will be to dictate separation for whatever reason arrives at the time of choosing it. Such as jumping off a stranded motorist from the AUX. The on all the time would be for if the main was dead and I could jump myself off. Believe me I am no where close to being an electrician so fire away if needed. Here is what my pipe dream is below.

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Firstly leave 87a unconnected. It's the 30 to 87 connection you want. Secondly a fuse or breaker at each link end near each battery. (IE - TWO fuses in total to protect the interlink cabling & relay and batteries.) Thirdly I wouldn't worry about the delay other than to ensure enough time to crank and start. Of course if you leave the IGN on for a while, or the engine stalls and you don't turn off IGN before cranking... The best isolator is generally the alternator charge-light controlled type. Failing that, a voltage controlled aka smart type, but one of their disadvantages is their turn on delay - usually between 15 to 60 seconds. IMO recovering maximum TOTAL charge quickly is best, hence connect all batteries as soon as the alternator begins to charge. There are those that claim connecting 2 batteries is dangerous - ie, if one if quite flat, the current/spark/shock is supposedly an issue. Mind you those same people often use voltage-controlled isolators (maybe they believe their priority charging bullsh?!) so instead of connecting a mere (say) 12.6V main battery to a flat secondary, they fully charge their main battery and THEN connect it AND the >14V alternator with more reserve capacity to the secondary battery...    Consider using a UIBI instead (my name for the chargeLight controlled isolator), or even an MW728 that coincidentally I wrote about in an other thread today. Though the MW728 reconnects at 12.5V, that can be increased by using a diode in its GND else +12V supply. (The diode would have to be a 2A or 3A type to handle the 14V/7.7R = 1.8A of the isolator's coil.) Then you don't have to worry about time delays etc. (The MW728 has a 15 second turn on delay as I recall.)

Thanks!, Getting ready to go to work but will leave with these questions. *Firstly leave 87a unconnected. It's the 30 to 87 connection you want. * If I connected 87a as shown and switched to position 3, would this give me my desired scenario of manually triggering without the timer? *Secondly a fuse or breaker at each link end near each battery. (IE - TWO fuses in total to protect the interlink cabling & relay and batteries.) * Please recommend or link me to fuse types and ratings? Thank You

87a (NC) is connected (to 30) when the relay is "off" (de-energised). 87 (NO) is connected (to 30) when the relay is "on" (energised). IOW your batteries will always be interconnected (except for milliseconds as the relay switches between the 2). That is not what you want. NC & NO designate the Normally Closed & Open contacts where "Normally" refers to unpowered - ie, as in a box on the shelf. Fuse ratings - no higher than the lowest of the interlink cable or relay or connector rating, but can be lower to limit or protect the battery. Fuse types - since I presume you are ]i]linking way more than 50A (and hence cheap self resetting breakers), I'd recommend ANL or whatever bolted "single piece" type suits. Not glass types. BTW, since you're using a high current isolator (I'd assume 200-400A), why not connect the 2 batteries during cranking? If you need "dip free" independence, fine, but otherwise is helps main battery life. IOW a mere ignition controlled relay with a off switch. Just don't forget to turn off ignition else disable the relay. (Maybe use my push button latching relay to switch the isolators "high" 2A current - tun on ignition and hit one button to engage; it turn off with IGN off of whenever the off button is pushed.)

Thanks For Your Patience........ I see it now. My cake and eat it too of switching between 87 & 87a is not cake. So I need a Toggle Switch that will feed from two different sources. From IGN power to the delay relay From the Main BATT to the Isolator trigger. The reason I want to delay is from the philosophy Cole Hersee uses in their 48530 Smart Battery Isolator 200A. "It reduces the load on the charging system by not connecting the auxiliary battery until the primary battery is charged to 13.2V. This extends the life of expensive charging components." It seems you have a different it look on it and I'm listening believe me. So when I fire up the main will recover and then the AUX is online. The reason I do not go with the Cole Hersee unit is it does not have the manual user control options I want, and has a parasitic drain of 5mA to 8mA. The darned thing is always ON! You say its better for the battery without the delay, they say better for the ALT with. Which ever way I go I can tweak the timer to suit. The vehicle typically will sit idle for 7 to 10 days, some times more and sometimes away from home or where I can attach a maintainer. From the factory it already has a 50mA drain after everything finally sleeps. 50mA is the max to tolerate as I'm told. So with key off and the toggle in the 1 or 2 position the AUX does not take any parasitic hit. So what about this picture? And here is the vehicle in question.