the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
icon

car battery & system problems,plausible?


Post ReplyPost New Topic
< Prev Topic Next Topic >
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: November 02, 2014 at 1:20 AM / IP Logged  
Clicking suggests a weak battery. Check its voltage during cranking. It should preferably stay above 10V but some may dip further. Less than 9V usually won't cut it (except for reduction starters).
It could also be a starter jam - whether in the ring-gear (if the starter engages) or the brushes or commutator are faulty.
The 0.14V could be the natural bias/output from the Hall module. But it should swing high (eg, up to 5V; above 2-3V) upon rotation.
If you mean system voltage, for the immo or ecu to be responsible for varying voltage it'd have to be one heck of a fault.
If you mean to the sensor etc, then as before, yes.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: November 02, 2014 at 1:28 AM / IP Logged  
Agreed.
The only way an HKZ hall sensor can burn is if its supply is above 5.5V or its Open Collector output sinks excess current. (Bad GND should merely make it inoperative.) But that should be easy knowledge with a bit of research.
But I'm unwatching this thread. As I wrote earlier, there is nothing else I can offer (other than a full course - unless enough specifics are supplied).
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: November 02, 2014 at 1:29 AM / IP Logged  
Agreed.
The only way an HKZ hall sensor can burn is if its supply is above 5.5V or its Open Collector output sinks excess current. (Bad GND should merely make it inoperative.) But that should be easy knowledge with a bit of research.
But I'm unwatching this thread. As I wrote earlier, there is nothing else I can offer (other than a full course - unless enough specifics are supplied).
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: November 02, 2014 at 1:29 AM / IP Logged  
Agreed.
The only way an HKZ hall sensor can burn is if its supply is above 5.5V or its Open Collector output sinks excess current. (Bad GND should merely make it inoperative.) But that should be easy knowledge with a bit of research.
But I'm unwatching this thread. As I wrote earlier, there is nothing else I can offer (other than a full course - unless enough specifics are supplied).
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
Gold spacespace
Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: November 02, 2014 at 1:32 AM / IP Logged  
Interesting that my reply to Howard's appears earlier than the above reply.
Sorry for the replication, but I thought my submit went bad...
custum 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: June 25, 2014
Location: Australia
Posted: November 02, 2014 at 1:49 AM / IP Logged  
Well it won't give the vital readings required from the part, so its got to be found before it burns another hall sender, I'm off to that.
Thanks.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: November 02, 2014 at 1:54 AM / IP Logged  
Jumping to conclusions?
Clutching at straws?
Sensors corrosion and poor grounds, experience not testing everything in sight.
custum 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: June 25, 2014
Location: Australia
Posted: November 02, 2014 at 3:48 AM / IP Logged  
Ha..
All the above correct. I have no blinking clue what fries elec parts JUST turning the key...who would..worse than clutching at straws..strands of live wires.
I am testing with information as I go, where I can, but the results only prove that they give the right result or they're broken and lead to other working parts which makes finding it harder.
The wire brushed connections new parts and good battery have given me solace that it cannot be through negligence, but I can't guess anymore what it might be because it could only be a fused fuse, which you haven't suggested. So...wheres the fried rat in the circuits?
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: November 02, 2014 at 3:51 AM / IP Logged  
Checking the fuses with a meter is always the first step, it's a given, unfortunately people like Oldie and myself forget we're not talking to pros.
custum 
Member - Posts: 49
Member spacespace
Joined: June 25, 2014
Location: Australia
Posted: November 02, 2014 at 4:26 AM / IP Logged  
Funny you should say ,checking fuses, I'm just learning how to. Board then fuse. So far its tacky. "A current is present" type of instruction.
I'm going to disconnect the immobilizer, I asked on another post and got quick remove instructions for it. Big job. That will eliminate a major part of any error and reduce looking for points when an auto electrician gets involved...because there won't be any where else to look soon.
Page of 8

  Printable version Printable version Post ReplyPost New Topic
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot create polls in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum

  •  
Search the12volt.com
Follow the12volt.com Follow the12volt.com on Facebook
Thursday, March 28, 2024 • Copyright © 1999-2024 the12volt.com, All Rights Reserved Privacy Policy & Use of Cookies
Disclaimer: *All information on this site ( the12volt.com ) is provided "as is" without any warranty of any kind, either expressed or implied, including but not limited to fitness for a particular use. Any user assumes the entire risk as to the accuracy and use of this information. Please verify all wire colors and diagrams before applying any information.

Secured by Sectigo
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer
Support the12volt.com
Top
the12volt.com spacer
the12volt.com spacer