what remote start to buy?

Never used KIATechs, so not sure about them. I believe most vehicle manufacturers' shop manuals have very detailed troubleshooting procedures that are described in a "step by step" manor that they use in the dealership to troubleshoot problems. I have purchased them for vehicles that I intend to own for many years. Typically it's a multi-volume set ( 3 or more ) that are sometimes quite expensive ( $300+ ). I see these used and sometimes as CD's on EBay once in a while, too.Soldering is fun!

Just some food for thought. The white drivers door motor unlock wire(pin 2) is supposed to rest at ground. If you are applying 12 volts to that wire you should be blowing a fuse. Unless of course you blew the solder trace on the Circuit board that supplies the ground internally. What I would do is check your driver door motor wires with a meter. I'm thinking your white wire(pin 2) is dead. Put your meter on a known ground and probe the white wire with red. Press unlock, it should goto 12volts for about a second while the other doors unlock. Then put your red probe on a known 12volt source and your black probe on the white wire. you should read 12volts on your meter until you press unlock. Report back with what you get with your test.

I see what your saying now, flobee. I found, maybe, a door wiring diagram. Not absolutely sure it's for the 2004, but possible. I would think it would be close anyway. Not that I'm bailing out on creating a problem, but I had problems from the beginning with the door lock/unlock. And I may have created another by doing what I did. I see that with the schematic now. I think while troubleshooting the problem, I screwed something else up. Just wish I had had a real schematic. Can't be sure, but it seems I metered that point and it is transitioning ok. But I would have to verify that. But since the other doors work, it seems it's from the connector, where I was at, to the door motor. It splits off, from a connector and goes to the other door motors. The others actuate fine. Well, unfortunately, I don't have time to look at it again, until Friday. Again, thx very much for your help and everyone else. I really appreciate it. I will check that voltage as soon as I can.

Well the reason the drivers door is the only one not working is that the drivers door is a separate circuit for unlocking. Most cars now a days have the drivers door as a separate circuit. Thats how they get drivers door priority to work(press the unlock button once on the factory remote and just the drivers door unlocks, press it a second time and the rest of the doors unlock.) The Lock motor wire remains common for all the doors. Thats why I think that its your drivers door unlock motor wire at pin 2 that is dead, because the other doors lock/unlock properly. That white wire needs to rest at ground in order for the drivers door to lock and it needs to goto positive in order for the door to unlock. If its dead(no ground at rest and no Positive at unlock) then the drivers door will do nothing. It is repairable if that wire is indeed dead. Thats why I need you to test it first to see if my thinking is correct.

Thanks for everyones help, don't want to leave anyone out, and especially you flobee. On the white wire, pin 2, there is no voltage at rest. when you actuate the lock button on the door switch, it goes to 12v momentarily. Hit the unlock button, nothing. If you reverse polarity, it's at 12v at rest, constant, and goes to ground when you hit the lock button. Nothing when you hit the unlock button. Out of pure determined curiousity, and studying the wiring diagram that I have, it kinda looks like to me that a wire is burnt from the motor to the connector where all the other door wires connect for this white wire circuit. But, again, not sure whether my diagram is right. After studying it, I figured I could take my current meter and put inline with this wire and ONLY hit the lock button and yeeehaaaww, the drivers side motor locked the door. So, you seem to be absolutely correct on the bad ground wire there Flobee!! Now to find it. On the diagram I have, it shows it going from the door motor, pin 6, up to connector SC-05, pin 6. It shows inside of this connector, that's where the other wires connect together. So, it must be from this connector back to the motor that's bad. Correct? If so, where is this connector? On my diagram, it shows this SC-05 connector runs off left, with one wire, to the ICM module, where the lock/unlock relays are. Again, thanks a bunch for all your help. Greatly appreciated!

And forgot to ask, does the KIAtech website have specific wiring diagrams for such as this. I sent them an email, they sent one back asking me to call them. Don't mind paying a little, but don't want to waste my money.

PM sent about your test results

Just to let people know what I came up with. I found it, with much help from Flobee, about a week ago. But have been busy with other stuff to post. Flobee is very good at what he does. Thanks man. Apparently my goof up caused a wire or trace to burn up in the ETACS module. The lock/unlock relay board was fine. With what schematics I had, it showed a little different direction of the wiring. The way they route the wiring in these vehicles is hard to follow. Where I should have removed the ETACS and check it, I didn't. I basically just ran a wire from the Drivers door motor (actually a connector by the drivers kick panel, up high, pin 2, white wire) over to the lock/unlock relay board. About 6-8 inches away. This did the trick to get the drivers door to lock/unlock. Hope this helps someone in the future.