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compustar keeps running the starter motor


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kreg357 
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Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 25, 2014 at 1:56 PM / IP Logged  

Strange.  With IGN2 isolated it wouldn't crank or cranked but wouldn't start?  Perhaps you have Relay Pin 30 and 87a reversed ( key switch side and vehicle side )?

Maybe if you listed your actual connections for CN1, CN2 and CN3 someone on the forum might see the issue.

Soldering is fun!
andrewiffic 
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Joined: October 20, 2014
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: October 25, 2014 at 2:01 PM / IP Logged  
With the IGN2 isolated I would hear the fan start up, but it wouldn't crank at all. I can check if I have it reversed but I don't think so. I can post up my connections in a bit. Thanks.
andrewiffic 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2014
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: October 25, 2014 at 3:08 PM / IP Logged  
The connections I have are:
CN1 (pin #, Remote start colour, Car wire colour)
1 Red -- Blk/Red, 12V
2 GREEN / WHITE -- Green, parking lights
3 RED / white -- Blk/Red, 12V
4 White -- Blue/Red, Accessory
5 Blue -- BLACK/ orange, Ignition2
6 Yellow -- Red, starter
7 Green -- BLACK / YELLOW, Ignition1
8 Black -- Ground
CN2
1 GREEN / WHITE -- green, parking lights
2 RED / black -- N/A, 2nd starter
3 N/A, 2nd Accessory
4 N/A, Negative output when running
5 N/A, factory arm
6 N/A, factory disarm
7 N/A, horn
8 Grey/black -- switch, hood pin
9 Blue/white -- GREEN / WHITE, brake
10 N/A, negative pulse
11 N/A, positive pulse
12 Yellow/black -- Black in engine bay connector, tach
The other connectors not listed here are for the alarm.
catback 
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Joined: August 13, 2002
Location: Canada
Posted: October 25, 2014 at 5:51 PM / IP Logged  
Is the ignition switch connector accessible? If so disconnect it from the switch and then do a remote start. If the problem goes away then the issue is with a power feed that needs to be isolated during keyless remote starts, you can determine which power feed needs to be isolated by taking said disconnected switch and with a continuity meter checking which power feed (ign 1, ign2, acc) shows continuity to the starter terminal with the ignition off and key removed.
metz35 
Copper - Posts: 458
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Joined: January 13, 2003
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 25, 2014 at 6:50 PM / IP Logged  
Try using the low tach threshold.
I'm unfimilar with that model.
But sometimes it let's you adjust the threshold by percentage. And sometimes it just gives you the option of high med low threshold.
Set the threshold to low. Relearn tach.
andrewiffic 
Member - Posts: 19
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Joined: October 20, 2014
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: October 25, 2014 at 9:08 PM / IP Logged  
catback wrote:
Is the ignition switch connector accessible? If so disconnect it from the switch and then do a remote start. If the problem goes away then the issue is with a power feed that needs to be isolated during keyless remote starts, you can determine which power feed needs to be isolated by taking said disconnected switch and with a continuity meter checking which power feed (ign 1, ign2, acc) shows continuity to the starter terminal with the ignition off and key removed.
So I checked continuity and got the following:
010 between starter and ign1
004 between starter and ign2
600 between starter and acc
Are those values too low for ign1 and ign2? I'm not sure what to do about that.
andrewiffic 
Member - Posts: 19
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Joined: October 20, 2014
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: October 26, 2014 at 12:38 PM / IP Logged  
I've also realised that the blower motor is not coming on when remote started. And a bunch of warning lights are illuminated on the dash. They go away and the fan starts once I turn the key to Acc or On. So it's like the remote start is not recognizing the car has started. I'm ready to throw this POS in the trash and buy a Viper unit and see if it works. This is driving me crazy.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 26, 2014 at 2:44 PM / IP Logged  
I've had good results with the CM600 units. No DOA's and no come-backs yet.
The wiring looks OK except for the CN1Pin 2 and the CN2 Pin 1 connections. Hopefully they aren't going to the same vehicle wire.
You only need one of them connected. I typically used the CN2 Pin 1 (-) Parking Light output if possible and convenient. This would
connect to this wire in your car :     Parking Lights (-) Light GREEN/ Red     @ steering column
Soldering is fun!
andrewiffic 
Member - Posts: 19
Member spacespace
Joined: October 20, 2014
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posted: October 26, 2014 at 4:54 PM / IP Logged  
kreg357 wrote:
I've had good results with the CM600 units. No DOA's and no come-backs yet.
The wiring looks OK except for the CN1Pin 2 and the CN2 Pin 1 connections. Hopefully they aren't going to the same vehicle wire.
You only need one of them connected. I typically used the CN2 Pin 1 (-) Parking Light output if possible and convenient. This would
connect to this wire in your car :     Parking Lights (-) Light GREEN/ Red     @ steering column
I did have them both connected to the same wire. I disconnected one of them now and still have the same problem.
kreg357 
Platinum - Posts: 7,781
Platinum spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 30, 2009
Location: Pennsylvania, United States
Posted: October 26, 2014 at 5:36 PM / IP Logged  

Do the Parking Lights flash with a lock or unlock?

Have you checked the CM600 ignition outputs with a DMM?  It sounds like the Accessory output / connection isn't working if the heater fan isn't powered.  Think I would disconnect them one at a time, put the DMM on that lead and hit the R/S button just to see if they are outputting and sequencing properly.  Then reconnect and move on to the next one.  Something if very wrong.

Soldering is fun!
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