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relay distance


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carman55 
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Joined: October 30, 2014
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: October 30, 2014 at 7:29 PM / IP Logged  
Hi I am installing aux backup lights on my truck and trailer that are independent of the factory wiring and need to know if the relay can be installed anywhere of if I have to keep close to something? Also can a relay be installed out in the elements? One out of topic question, what do I use to make three way connections to my lights?
carman55 
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Joined: October 30, 2014
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: October 30, 2014 at 7:31 PM / IP Logged  
This is for a 2006 ford 150
i am an idiot 
Platinum - Posts: 13,666
Platinum spaceThis member consistently provides reliable informationspace
Joined: September 21, 2006
Location: Louisiana, United States
Posted: October 30, 2014 at 9:31 PM / IP Logged  
The relay can be placed anywhere you want. Just make sure the wire you use will handle the current draw over that distance.
carman55 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: October 30, 2014
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: October 30, 2014 at 10:10 PM / IP Logged  
yes im going to be using 10 gauge wire over about 40 foot running 13.5 amps with a 15 amp fuse.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: October 31, 2014 at 2:49 PM / IP Logged  
And the answer to question 2 is solder and heat shrink sleeving.
Also no the relay can't be exposed, sealing it into a small plastic box and make sure the terminals hang down.
davep. 
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Joined: May 27, 2011
Location: California, United States
Posted: November 03, 2014 at 7:23 PM / IP Logged  
If this 2006 F150 has a factory installed hitch and trailer wiring plug, there is already a relay in the back-up light circuit. The relay powers the center terminal in the 7-pin trailer connector. Connect the aux lights on the truck to the blk/pink wire in the 7-pin trailer connector, and they will be switched by the relay. The 20Amp fuse for the trailer backup lights is fuse #10 located in the RH kick panel fuse box.
oldspark 
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Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: November 03, 2014 at 8:38 PM / IP Logged  
Good info davep.
Re Howard's solder & heatshrink, I agree but noting that soldering a relay limits ease of replacement and can damage the relay.
The solution is to solder a relay base (connector/mount) but then you have the same relay to base contact issues.
I generally find that good spades will retain contact even when surrounded by corrosion. In fact my biggest problem is water etc conducting between terminals.
However in recent times I have been shrink-sleeving spade connectors (can't do that with a relay base!) preferably past the connector (spade) contact end to seal around the relay terminal or against its body. That has been very effective in overcoming aforementioned contamination shorting problems.
But a big YES to weather proofing. Some relays I thought were quite well sealed (unlike most mini/cube types) proved not to be. (So I hooded them with plastic bags (zip-locks etc) - sometimes sealing the open end with wire-ties, and maybe silicon (silastic) or even grease or even the old 'petrol & velvet soap' when desperate.)
Solder & heatshrink is the best. But maybe not always necessary unless it's a low-current connection as with alarms etc.
[ LOL - I recall stripping my first car at its end of life. I found the thin alligator-clip test lead I had fitted over 2 years earlier when a window washer motor wire broke during a rally. It worked reliably over the next 2+ years of insane dirt driving. (Oddly enough, the motor end clip seemed corroded to the motor terminal. Just as well - its spring was unsprung.) Ha - I can rarely find one of those test leads that works at home - over 90% of the time their unsoldered wire-to-clip connection is bad! relay distance -- posted image. ]
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
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Posted: November 04, 2014 at 12:39 AM / IP Logged  
I certainly NEVER meant solder to the relay terminals!
I meant the general wiring.
oldspark 
Gold - Posts: 4,913
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Joined: November 03, 2008
Location: Australia
Posted: November 04, 2014 at 1:53 AM / IP Logged  
Apologies.
I know a while ago you agreed that soldering spade-connector relays themselves was undesirable...
But otherwise, yeah! I've eben started soldering my Andersons which I never used to bother with - and they're high current.
But any high impedance or voltage sensitive sensor, IMO definitely solder. Else use appropriate connectors.
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: November 04, 2014 at 2:20 AM / IP Logged  
I buy relay bases X 20 and the correct click in terminals X 100, looks a lot better than insulated crimp connectors.
The quenching diode gets sleeved and it looks the business.
Don't know if this is an urban myth but I was told a 1000 years ago to mount the unit with terminals down; gravity gives the contacts a helping and it slows water ingress.
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