relay distance

Ah, ye olde spouse tale - like brushing teeth before meals; draining carburetors if leaving for a few months... (I told you they were old, but we here in Oz keep many alive, like needing dc-dc converters to charge batteries...) I can vouch for terminals down, but that's also because that's where seams or breather holes are - a lesson I learned well in my youthful younger days. [ My 1972 GT-750 Ducati's permanent magnet 120W alternator could handle 120W at 3,000 RPM. Unfortunately 3,000 RPM in top gear was over our max speed limit. And during a 10-hour overnight trip along my chosen scenic winding coast road it decided to pour buckets. As if not being able to do reasonable RPM wasn't bad enough, my easily mounted upside-down relays ingressed the rain and all sorts of problems ensued... no lights when critical, or dim or full lights with IGN off, etc. ] recently I even decided NOT to mount my upper-firewall located wipermotor's sealed DIN microrelays conveniently on the motor in case of wet inter-terminal conduction.   Front or front-side engine bay fine, but not rear...

davep. wrote: If this 2006 F150 has a factory installed hitch and trailer wiring plug, there is already a relay in the back-up light circuit. The relay powers the center terminal in the 7-pin trailer connector. Connect the aux lights on the truck to the blk/pink wire in the 7-pin trailer connector, and they will be switched by the relay. The 20Amp fuse for the trailer backup lights is fuse #10 located in the RH kick panel fuse box.

This is a good idea but I want to avoid messing with the factory wires. Also I want to wire it so I can turn the back up lights on at any time and I might add a connector to the trailer back up lights in which if you know of a good connector to do this let me know.