viper 5706v and dball2

Looking to install a Viper 5706V with a DBALL2 bypass onto a 08 Lancer AT, regular key. Pulling the data sheet of the Viper 5706V here are the wire I feel are used or not needed. Could someone verify if this is correct? Remote Starter Main Harness, 6-pin connector 1     Red   (+) 12 VDC Constant Input +12V Constant 2     Black (-) Chassis Ground Chassis Ground 3     Brown (+) Siren Output Red to Siren     RED / Black to Ground 4     WHITE/ Brown     Parking Light Isolation Wire – Pin 87a onboard relay NC 5     White Parking Light Output ???? 6     Orange (-) 500mA Ground when armed output        NC Door Lock, 3-pin connector 1     Blue (-) 500 mA Unlock Output (-) Unlock Output (DBALL2) 2     Empty 3     Green (-) 500mA Lock Output   (-) Lock Output (DBALL2) Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector 1     NC   No Connection 2     RED / Black (+) Fused 12V Accessory/Starter Input   IGNITION 3     Pink/Black (+) Flex Relay Input 87A key side (if required) of flex relay NC 4     Pink/White (+) Ignition 2/ Flex Relay Output        ???? 5     Red   (+) Fused 12V Ignition 1 Input        IGNITION 6     Green (+) Starter Input (Key side of the starter kill) Cut Starter and place inline 7     Violet (+) Starter Output (Car Side of starter kill) Cut Starter and place inline 8     Orange (+) Accessory Output ACCESSORY 9     RED / White (+) Fused 12V Ignition 2 / Flex Relay Input 87 IGNITION 10     Pink (+) Ignition 1 Input / Output        IGNITION? Auxiliary/Shutdown/Trigger Harness, 24-pin connector 1     PNK/White (-) 200mA Ignition 2 / Flex Output     NC 2     Blue/White (-) 200mA 2nd Status/ Rear Defogger Output 3     RED / White (-) 200mA Trunk Release Output     (-) Trunk Release Output (DBALL2) 4     BLACK / YELLOW     (-) 200mA Dome Light Output NC 5     Dark Blue (-) 200mA Status Output Ground while Running (DBALL2) 6     WHITE/ Black     (-) 200mA Aux 3 Output   NC 7     WHITE/ Violet     (-) 200mA Aux 1 Output   NC 8     ORANGE / Black     (-) 200mA Aux 4 Output   NC 9     Gray (-) Hood Pin Input   (-) Hood Status Input (DBALL2) 10     Blue (-) Trunk Pin/Instant Trigger Input     (-) Trunk Status Input (DBALL2) 11     WHITE/ Blue Activation Input NC 12     Violet/White*     Tachometer Input        (AC) Tach Output (DBALL2) 13     BLACK/ White**     (-) Neutral Safety/Parking Brake Input Chassis Ground 14     GREEN/ Black     (-) 200 mA Factory Alarm Disarm Output NC 15     Green* (-) Door Input (-) Door Status Output (DBALL2) 16     BROWN / Black     (-) 200mA Horn Honk Output NC 17     Pink (-) 200mA Ignition 1 Output NC 18     Violet* (+) Door Input ????? 19     Violet/Black (-) 200 mA Aux 2 Output NC 20     Brown (+) Brake Shutdown Input   (+) Brake Status Output (DBALL2) 21     Violet / YELLOW     (-) 200mA Starter Output NC 22     Gray/Black (-) Diesel Wait to Start Input NC 23     Orange (-) 200 mA Accessory Output NC 24     GREEN / WHITE     (-) 200mA Factory Alarm Arm Output     NC I know D2D is available and that would basically eliminate the use of the 24-pin connector and door lock 3-pin connector, leaving me only with the Main Harness, 6-pin connector, and Remote start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector. However, would W2W connections be better; I don't mind taking the extra time to make solid connections between the RS and Bypass; or does it go between RS and vehicle? Could someone verify the connections I need to make especially on the Remote start, 10-pin and 6 pin connectors. Also, the CAN High goes to Light Green on Immobilizer Connector, and CAN Low goes to Yellow on the Immobilizer connector. (-) Auto Headlamp shutoff output goes to yellow pin 16 on the 16 pin, brown connector. It also states (-) Parking Lights must be connected, however the Lancer has (+) parking lights, (yellow and brown) in the connector located under the fuse box, is there a way to set the polarity?misturnice

Going W2W is fine.  Assuming a Lancer and not an EVO.  Also assuming an automatic transmission.  Here are some

answers and corrections :

Remote Start, 10-pin heavy gauge connector

1     NC   No Connection 2     RED / Black  (+) Fused 12V Accessory/Starter Input       WHITE or BLACK/ RED  @ FUSE BOX, (BLACK, 2-PIN PLUG),PIN 1   3     Pink/Black  (+) Flex Relay Input 87A of flex relay          NC 4     Pink/White  (+) Ignition 2/ Flex Relay Output     NC5     Red (+) Fused 12V Ignition 1 Input       RED or BLACK/ GRAY  @ FUSE BOX, (BLACK, 2-PIN PLUG), PIN 2   6     Green          (+) Starter Input (Key side) ORANGE (+)  @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 6-PIN PLUG), PIN 5    Cut wire key side7     Violet (+) Starter Output (Car Side)         ORANGE (+)  @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 6-PIN PLUG), PIN 5    Cut wire car side8     Orange       (+) Accessory Output         LT. GREEN (+)  @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 6-PIN PLUG), PIN 6  9     RED / White  (+) Fused 12V Ignition 2 / Flex Relay         NC10     Pink          (+) Ignition 1 Input / Output WHITE (+)  @ IGNITION SWITCH, (WHITE, 6-PIN PLUG), PIN 2  

For the Parking Lights :

There is an internal Jumper/Fuse inside the Viper controller.  Set it to (+) position.  Obtain two 6 Amp diodes ( MIC 6A10 ).Split the Vipers Pin 5 White Parking Light Output into two wires.  Solder in-line a 6 Amp diode in each with the band towardsthe car and connect to these wires in your Lancer :   Yellow (L), Brown(R) ( +)   @ dash fuse box, white 20 pin plug, pin 10 & 13.

The Viper only needs to see one Door Trigger input, either (+) or (-).  The DB-ALL supplies a (-) Door Trigger, which you

have hardwired.  This Viper input is not used.18     Violet*          (+) Door Input          NC

Also note that the DB-ALL's Hood Trigger input will only be supplied if the Lancer has a Factory installed Hood Pin.  If

you are not sure, test after install.  If the remote started engine does not shutdown when you open the hood, install andconnect the Viper kit supplied hood pin.

There is a nice Pictorial on a 2011 Lancer in the Pictorials section by senior forum member Ted.  The 2008 through 2014

Lancers should be the same.  Here is a link :  https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=130264

Soldering is fun!

Thanks kreg! I was wondering how did you know the difference between the Fused 12V Ignition 1, and the regular ignition 1? All the diagrams I've seen, none have stated to use the other 2 pin. (White for +12V constant, and the Red - which is Fused 12V Ignition 1 Output [as stated above]) Also, for the parking lights, is it specific to 6 Amp Diodes, or would I be able to go with 10 Amp, I only ask because I have 10 amp diodes laying around. And for future reference, is there a reason why the Parking Light output sends two wires Yellow, and Brown; I assume this is vehicle specific.misturnice

Viper standard wiring on the H3 main ignition harness is anything red goes to +12V constant. Pink is always Ignition. Violet is always Starter and Orange is always Accessory. I went by Ready Remote for the Lancer wires. Those two +12V constants mentioned are rated at 80 Amps, so you could probably attach everything to just one wire. I like to split things up. Here is a link to the wire listing : http://www.readyremote.com/main.asp?make=Mitsubishi&model=Lancer The 10 Amp diodes will be fine, they just cost a little more.Soldering is fun!

Just so I'm clear, (+) Fused 12V Ignition 1 Input goes to constant +12V. Why would it go to RED or BLACK/ GRAY @ FUSE BOX, (BLACK, 2-PIN PLUG), PIN 2   and not WHITE or BLACK/ RED @ FUSE BOX, (BLACK, 2-PIN PLUG),PIN 1 . I have no clue what pin 2 is, but I'm sure pin 1 is constant +12V. Just to clarify I could put both to the white @ fuse (black, 2 pin), pin 1. Also, I should fuse it together to 1 fuse, 10amp?misturnice

Yes, on your Viper system, the thick wires with fuses need to be connected to a +12V constant source that is capable of supplying the current draw of the installed Viper system.  With your Viper, the Red, RED / Black and RED / White fused wires all go to +12V constant.  With your particular vehicle, there is no need for the Pink/White Flex relay output, so no need to connect the RED / White +12V input wire that supplies it.

Again, sorry for the confusion.  (You might be over thinking this.)  I just arbitrarily chose the vehicle's +12V constant wires and assigned them to random Viper +12V input wires, splitting the load across easily available vehicle +12V constant wires.  The way I listed the connections isn't the only way it can be done.  Heck, you could run a 4 gauge wire directly from the battery if you wanted and it would still work fine.  Here is the ReadyRemote wire listing I used :

12volts    white (80A), red (80A)   (+)    @ dash fuse box, black 2 pin plug, pins 1 and 2

Here is the info from Bulldog Security :

12 VOLT CONSTANT    WHITE (+) or BLACK/ RED,  (+) RED (+) or BLACK/ GRAY (+)  @ FUSE BOX, (BLACK, 2-PIN PLUG), PINS 1 and 2 

I don't do many Mitsubishi's, so I am not familiar with the ignition wires on that car.  If they are thick wires, then don't combine the Viper power wires together prior to their connection to the +12V supply wire(s) and don't fuse them down.  Remember, you have a vehicle that needs (+) parking lights and are adding an alarm system w/siren.

Soldering is fun!

About to make the purchase for the Viper 5706v, however, does anyone know if viper upgrades their remote start models yearly? Is the 5901v a newer model? Does anyone know when Viper releases new models? Is it worth the wait? or should I just go with the 5706v?misturnice

About every two years, yours is the latest, 5901 is about 6 years old. BTW if you have two thick wires at the fusebox and they are constant feeds, by all means use both and spread your loads as Kreg suggests, it also makes for easier soldering.