viper 5906v in 1988 vw vanagon

Hi! This will be my first topic here! :) I am currently in the progress of installing a Viper 5906 system into a 1988 Volkswagen Vanagon. Because I have never done this before (never worked with car alarms but are pretty comfortable with the rest of the electrical wiring in the vehicle) and and in addition the manual is in English and I am Swedish there is a lot of small issues that I need to tackle. Of course I do understand English but when it comes to technical terms I do not find it that easy any longer. At the top of the main unit there is a little slot, underneath the hatch you will find a small 10A fuse. The fuse can be installed in two different positions, positive or negative light flash polarity. Which type of polarity do I have in my vehicle? I guess most of the european cars have the same? There is 11 connectors at the main unit, Some of them would not be needed, one is for the shock sensor, one is for the RF signal reciever, one is for the door lock output and one is for the neutral safety switch. Why do I need that switch? What is the purpose? In addition to these, there are also 3 main connectors: Main harness connector(6 pins) Remote start harness connector (10 pins) Auxilary/Shutdown/Trigger harness connector (24 pins) At the main harness connector you will find these pins: 1: +12VDC supply voltage (no questions about what the purpose of this one is for) 2: Chassis ground earth (no questions about this one either) 3: Siren output (I have connected the positive connector of the siren to this one, the negative one is connected to ground earth) 4: Parking light isolation wire (???) 5: Parking light output (connected to the parking lights +12VDC) 6: Ground when armed output (I understand that this connector has ground potential when the alarm is activated but I do not understand what the purpose is) At the remote start harness connector you will find these pins: 1: NC (not used) 2: 12VDC accessory/starter input (???) 3: Flex relay input (???) 4: Ignition 2/flex relay output (???) 5: 12VDC Ignition input 1 (this is where I will connect the ignition voltage) 6: Starter kill input (I will have to cut the wire between the ignition lock (cranking signal) and the solenoid at the starter motor, the wire will be connected to this instead of the solenoid) 7: Starter kill output (this one connects to the solenoid at the starter motor) 8: Accessory output (???) 9: 12VDC Ignition input 2 (???) 10: Ignition 1 input/output (???) At the auxilary/shutdown/trigger harness connector you will find these pins: 1: Ignition 2/flex output (the same as pin 4 at the remote start connector???) 2: Rear defoger output (connected to a relay which is connected to the defroster loop in the rear window) 3: Trunk release output (this wire goes back to the rear door, inside the door I have installed a solenoid that opens the door, this solenoid is connected to a little relay next to it, the wire is connected to this relay) 4: Dome light output (connected to the interior light via a relay that is connected parallell to the door swithes to ground) 5: Status output (???) 6: Aux 3 output (not used) 7: Aux 1 output (connected to the power windows via a relay, only closing the windows is possible) 8: Aux 4 output (not used) 9: Hood pin input (maybe I should put this switch behind the upper grill so that the alarm goes off if someone tries to steal my aftermarket bi-xenon kit) 10: Trunk pin input (i will connect this one parallell to the rear door interior light switch) 11: Activation input (???) 12: Tachometer input (the RPM signal from the Subaru engine will be connected to this) 13: Neutral safety/parking brake input (since the car has a manual gearbox, I guess that to connect this parallell to the parking brake is the most appropriate) 14: Factory alarm disarm output (???) 15: Door input, negative (connect at the same spot as pin 4?)* 16: Horn honk output (connects parallell with the horn switch in the steering wheel) 17: Ignition 1 output (the same as pin 10 at the remote start connector???) 18: Door input, positive (connect at the same spot as pin 4?)* 19: Aux 2 output (not used) 20: Brake shutdown input (???) 21: Starter output (the same as pin 7 at the remote start connector???) 22: Diesel wait to start input (not used because the vehicle is operated on gasoline) 23: Accessory output (the same as pin 8 at the remote start connector???) 24: Factory alarm arm output (???) *: I guess I will only use one of them, is it pin 15 for this car? The ones that I have written "???" after is the ones that I want to know where they should be connected to. I also want the hazard flashers to blink when I lock and unlock the car, which output should I use for that? Many questions there is... But I hope to at least get answers to some of them?The swedish guy with the metallic blue Subaru powered Vanagon

" a small 10A fuse" Set POS, split the white wire via 2 X 1N5404 diodes to your left and right indicator wires, BLACK/ white and BLACK/ green steering column loom. Diode bands towards those wires. Will run hazards not parking lights, that's how we do it in Europe. Main H1 harness forget WHITE/ brown and orange. " 12VDC accessory/starter input (???)" Thin wire at ignition switch possibly red or black. Only function, switches audio. "12VDC accessory/starter input (???)" Constant 12V+ ignition switch loom "Flex relay input (???)" Not used. " Ignition 2/flex relay output (???) " Powers up your second ignition, (BLACK / YELLOW (? TEST) required. " 12VDC Ignition input 2 (???) " As No. 2 " Ignition 1 input/output (???) " To black wire at ignition switch. H2 Aux outputs. Questions:- 1) N/A 5) Goes to your immobiliser by-pass 556U 11) N/A 13) Yes 14) N/A 15) Yes 16) No via a relay to factory horn relay output at the cabin fusebox. (?BLACK / YELLOW?) 17) N/A 18) N/A 20) Connect to switched side of brake switch (RED / black or BLACK/ red can't remember which way round. 21) 22) 23) 24) All N/A

Thanks for the help! But there are some things I do not really understand ...

howie ll wrote: " 12VDC accessory/starter input (???)" Thin wire at ignition switch possibly red or black. Only function, switches audio "12VDC accessory/starter input (???)" Constant 12V+ ignition switch loom " Ignition 1 input/output (???) " To black wire at ignition switch.

Ignition or constant +12V, determine for ONE alternative please... The thin black wire from the ignition switch is connected with the thicker black that also is connected to the ignition switch (they merge at the lock itself thus) This thin black wire goes to the instrument casing (and seems nothing to do with the stereo in the car). No thin red wire seems to exist here.

howie ll wrote: " Ignition 2/flex relay output (???) " Powers up your second ignition, (BLACK / YELLOW (? TEST) required. " 12VDC Ignition input 2 (???) " As No. 2

The black wire with the yellow marking goes from the ignition switch to the light switch and the X-relay. Should I cut this one and connect the input 2 to the ignition switch and the ignition 2/flex relay output to the other end of the cable (which I just cut off)?

howie ll wrote: 5) Goes to your immobiliser by-pass 556U

As I know there is no immobiliser in such an old car as this one or am I wrong? Two 1N5404 diodes would I probably find at my work!The swedish guy with the metallic blue Subaru powered Vanagon

Orange ACC output from R/S to thin red (ACC) at ignition, not needed only controls the radio. H3/9 RED / black is your INPUT for starter and ACC goes to a 12V+ constant source. The Viper uses the pink its pink ignition wire as an output AND input for ignition sensing, you don't want the alarm to activate on engine run do you? Join to the thicker black wire at ignition switch. Ignition 2 (pink/white H3/7) is simply joined (soldered ) to the BLACK / YELLOW. Pink/black, H3/8 is not used. You're right, no immobiliser, from about 92 on. The only cut lead is the starter wire, RED / black green, H3/5 to key side, violet, H3/4 to car (starter) side. All others are simply joined.