2010 mazda3 manual ca5554 mystery

Greetings, I’m new on the forum and definitely an amateur when it comes to remote starter systems. I spent a good bit of time doing research on this and other sites before attempting an install on my daughter’s car. I’d originally planned to do a pictorial write up if the install proved successful... and I didn’t let the magic smoke out of the car’s electrical system.

Everything was going swimmingly (normally the first sign of impending doom) until I ran into a problem I can’t seem to figure out, I’m hoping some brilliant mind can make sense of it.

Details follow;

2010 Mazda 3 4D sedan, manual transmission, non smart-key.

Code Alarm CA5554

 FlashLogic FLCAN; FLC-AL(TB)-FM2 firmware; type 2 install.

I got everything in and thought I had it all figured out. I set up the bypass using the keys, learned the tach and set the starter to manual transmission mode.

The door locks work, the trunk release works and the car will start in the manual transmission remote start ready mode. Everything seems like it works perfect, I send the car back to my daughter and congratulate myself on a job well done (never a good idea).

The next day she calls me up and tells me it didn’t start that morning. I get the car back and go through the remote start ritual.

When I exit the vehicle and lock the doors the vehicle shuts off as it should. However now I notice the remote is showing the icon for the "vehicle running" (vehicle is not running) and has commenced its 15 minute countdown. After the 15 minute countdown ends the remote shows the doors "unlock" and the car will not remote start. The parking lights also flash four times (manual trans mode, according to manual).

If you send the "start" command before the countdown ends then shut it off remotely the remote will show "locked" and the car will start the next time you send the "start" command (beyond the 15 minutes).

 Short of sacrificing a chicken to the Remote Starter Gods I’m at a loss on what to do next. Thanks in advance.

Here are some of my notes on the wiring: (sorry about the sloppy formatting, I tried converting it from excel)

CA 5554         Wire color/ pin       Vehicle Wire Color         Location        *Notes

11 Pin Main Wiring Harness

    Parking brake input (-) Gray/Red, 1     Purple       BCM, Blue 24 pin               *Pin 9

Door input (+)   Purple, 2          Not used  Door input (-)    Green, 3 Green        BCM, White 16 pin *Pin 15, Dome Supervision Wire

Illuminated Entry Output (-)     BLACK/ White, 4 Not used  Horn Output (-) BROWN / Black, 5 Blue BCM, Blue 24 pin               *Pin 11Trunk Release Output(-)         RED / White, 6   Green         BCM, White 16 pin *Pin 4, See Diagram belowStart Status/Active output (-)   Blue/Black, 7   Not used  Tach Input         PURPLE / White, 8  Pink  PCM,Fuel Inj           *Under Hood, Pin 59

Hood Pin Input (-)         Gray, 9 To hood pin  Brake Input (+)              BROWN / Red, 10 Dk Green  Brake Pedal Aux 1 Output (-) Violet/Black, 11  Not used  3 Pin Parking Light Harness    Ground BLACK/ White, 1 Chassis Ground  Parking Light Input       WHITE/ Red, 2   Chassis Ground  Parking Light Output    White, 3  Grey  BCM, Blue 24 pin    *Pin 23

6 Pin Start Harness

    Starter Output-Motor Side       Purple, 1 Lt Green    8 Pin Ign. Switch Battery 12V (+) Red, 2   Yellow        8 Pin Ign. Switch Accessory 1 (+) Orange, 3          White          8 Pin Ign. Switch Ignition 2 (+)     Pink/White, 4    Not used  Battery 12V (+) RED / White, 5     Yellow       8 Pin Ign. Switch Ignition 1 (+)     Pink       Blue          8 Pin Ign. Switch 4 Pin Alternate Harness    Pulse During Crank (-)      BLACK / YELLOW, 1  Purple  Clutch Pedal  *50V 1A Diode, stripe toward CA5554

Pulse After Shutdown (-)   GREEN / WHITE, 2  Not used  Factory Arm/ Pulse After Start (-)  Lt Blue, 3         Not used  Factory Disarm/ Pulse Before Start (-)   Lt Gn/Bk, 4       Not used  2 Pin Door Lock Harness    Unlock (-)        Blue       Lt Green   BCM, Blue 24 pin       *Pin 14Lock (-) Green    Lt Green   BCM, Blue 24 pin       *Pin 14, 1K Ohm Resistor inline    FLCAN Bypass Wiring (only connections used are listed)    3 Pin Harness, Pin 1 WHITE/ Black       Dk Blue     Conn. D at PATS        *Ign Cyl Side, Pin 1 (RX)

3 Pin Harness, Pin 2 WHITE/ Red          Dk Blue     Conn. D at PATS       *Veh Side, Pin 1 (RX)

7 Pin Harness, Pin 3 ORANGE / Black    Dk Blue     Conn. D at PATS       *Veh Side, Pin 1 (RX)

7 Pin Harness, Pin 7 Pink        Blue 8 Pin Ign. Switch 6 Pin Harness, Pin 5 Gray/Red Lt Blue       Conn. D at PATS        *Pin 2 (TX)

D2D Cable between CA5554 and FLCAN was also used. 

Trunk Release Wiring Diagram (SPST Relay)

12V(+) signal to trunk release solenoid, Green wire, Pin 4, White 16 Pin BCM Plug  ->87Fused 12V(+) 5A power source ->86 + 30(-) Signal from CA5554 RED / White wire on 11 Pin Main Plug  ->85

4 flashes is valet mode. You are having a communication problem between the remote, antenna and starter. Check for kinked antenna cables, reprogram all remotes.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

A quick guess about something. Forgetting the remote starter altogether, just sit inside the car with all doors closed, start the engine, then shut the engine off and remove the key. Did the domelight come on? (Make sure the domelight isn't disabled with the overhead switch.) Many cars illuminate the interior at engine shutoff, presumably to help the driver gather personal belongings before exiting the car. Unfortunately, this will also make the remote starter think someone has opened the car door after the engine has shut off, which will disable ready mode. You should be able to have your daughter do this test on her own without even having to get the car back just yet. So, if that's the case, unfortunately this car also has normally-closed door triggers. They're a ground when the car is off, and go dead when the door is open----opposite of what the remote starter wants. There are many diagrams and discussions about how to wire up the car's NC door triggers to satisfy the remote starter. I've never personally had to do it, so I can't comment too much about which way is best.

chris is correct about the -NC door triggers, however i have done this car countless times with the domelight wire and haven't run into problems. Mind you, I use compustar which has the option to ignore the domelight for a preset time tech tip 1921 is an alternative to negative door triggers.Ted

2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School

Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries

Compustar Expert

Ted and Chris,

First off, thanks very much. 

I was pretty meticulous on the install, I learned the hard way (seems to be a pattern with me) that it pays to take the extra time and make sure everything's right when you dig into the wiring harness. That said, it's entirely possible I put too much strain on something somewhere. The only question I have about it being a bad connection is that it really only does the same thing every time. Then again it doesn't nescessarily have to be intermittant.

As for the door input, I'd actually wondered about that when I hooked up to the dome supervision instead of the door locks. Somehow taking the easy way eventually always ends up being more work... The starter also works as it's supposed to if I restart during the 15 minute timer (when it thinks it's running but it's not) and shut if off, that would definately give the dome enough time to cycle off.

Unfortunately I'm working a couple of area codes away from home right now and won't be able to dig too far into this till I get back. In the meantime I'll get in touch with my daughter and have her try what you've suggested.

This stuff makes me feel really dumb sometimes.

Thanks again, your advice is much appreciated.