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2005 jimmy remote start


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geeteezee 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: December 22, 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 28, 2015 at 11:51 AM / IP Logged  
Installing a Prostart and I'm having an issue with the starter and 2nd ignition wires. There is no white or yellow in the thick Guage that I would expect for these two. There are multiple 18 Guage in those colors however. There is a thick Guage grey wire also. Any ideas?
sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
Platinum spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: January 28, 2015 at 4:48 PM / IP Logged  
The yellow starter wire and the white 2nd ignition are not thick wires. They are at the end of the large connector under the driver side dash next to the thick red wire battery wire. Use a meter to confirm the wires while starting with the key.
sparky
geeteezee 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: December 22, 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 29, 2015 at 9:29 AM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the reply. I tested the wires I suspected to confirm ignition and starter. Everything works but the door locks. Apparently they're fussy. Need to do some more research.
geeteezee 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: December 22, 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 29, 2015 at 12:16 PM / IP Logged  
Does anyone know offhand, (without me checking the door lock harness) the lock/unlock type for a 2005 GMC Jimmy/Blazer? Bulldog shows Type A, but I find no reference to wiring info anywhere.
I currently have a Prostart 3271 installed and working apart from the door locks. I've connected the Green (unlock) and Brown (lock) wires from the RS to White and Lt. Blue respectively at the brown plug on the BCM.
There is an option for different pulse timings on the RS but as the vehicle isn't here I can't test. It's currently set to:
7/10-sec pulse with options to change to:
4-sec lock/unlock pulse and
7/10-sec lock pulse and two 1/4-sec unlock pulses.
As always, much thanks for any help.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 29, 2015 at 1:16 PM / IP Logged  
The locks are positive, hopefully the outputs of the brain are not damaged as you never tested the wire.
Defaulted setting for locks will work perfectly fine, no need to modify this,
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
geeteezee 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: December 22, 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 29, 2015 at 2:15 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for the reply. I guess that's what I get for not testing. Odd that the diagrams I found say Type A instead of just saying (+). And of course I just found one for Chev Blazer that states (+). 2005 jimmy remote start -- posted image.
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: January 29, 2015 at 2:27 PM / IP Logged  
good thing crappy tire does offers a 1 year hassle free replacement on brains.
btw you need 2 relays to convert neg to positive, or buy a door lock inverter from an audio shop. less clutter but it'll run you 15 dollars
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
geeteezee 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: December 22, 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 03, 2015 at 1:02 PM / IP Logged  
Got the relays installed. Unlock works but lock does not. Lights flash. 86 & 30 to 12v, 85 from t3s 87 to vehicle unlock/lock.
geeteezee 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: December 22, 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 03, 2015 at 1:04 PM / IP Logged  
T3s is remote start
geeteezee 
Member - Posts: 14
Member spacespace
Joined: December 22, 2014
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 03, 2015 at 4:03 PM / IP Logged  
Got it sorted out. As I suspected, the lock output was pooched due to my previous wiring (without testing) connecting (-) from the RS to (+) vehicle wiring.

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