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2001 Chevrolet Suburban Alarm/Remote Start


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dmurray14 
Member - Posts: 48
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Joined: December 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 24, 2005 at 6:37 PM / IP Logged  

Anyone ever done a remote start install in a 2001 or similar Chevrolet Suburban? Anything special that needs to be done? Where can I find the complete wiring locations - the ones I have found online are fairly vague with quite a few instances of the same color wire...

Help is much appreciated!

Thanks

Dan

boomer_106 
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Joined: November 25, 2003
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Posted: February 24, 2005 at 8:43 PM / IP Logged  

Here ya go Dan.

Chevrolet

Suburban

2000-2002

Remote Starter  Wiring Colors and Notes

Function

 

Vehicle  Color

Location

Start:

 

YELLOW (# AWG)

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

Ignition  #1:

 

PINK (# AWG)

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS*

Ignition #2:

 

WHITE (# AWG)

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS(ECM)

Ignition  #3:

 

N/A

Accessory:

 

ORANGE

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS (HEAT/AC)

Brake  Light:

 

WHITE (+)

AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL

Tach  Signal:

 

VIOLET/WHITE

AT PLUG ABOVE VALVE COVER ON DR. SIDE

Parking Lights:

 

BROWN (+)

# PIN PLUG IN FUSE PANEL OR AT SWTICH

Headlights:

 

YELLOW (+)

AT HEALIGHT SWITCH

Diesel  Glow Plug:

 

Clutch  Bypass Wire:

 

Notes:

 *This Vehicle Is Equipped With GM's PASSLOCK II Anti-Theft System. Use Universal Alarm Bypass Module part # 2x402 where X can be any number.


Chevrolet

Suburban

2000-2002

Alarm and Keyless  Entry Wiring Colors and Notes

Function

 

Vehicle  Color

Location

Constant  +12 Volts:

 

RED (2)

IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

OEM Alarm Disarm:

 

GREEN

IN FLAT CONNECTOR IN DR. KICK PANEL

Dome  Lights/Superv:

 

WHITE

AT PLUG IN CONVIENENCE CENTER **

OEM Horn:

 

BLACK (-)

STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

Power  Lock:

 

LT. BLUE

# PIN PLUG AT FUSE PANEL ON DR. SIDE

Power  Unlock:

 

WHITE

DRIVER'S KICK PANEL IN BODY CAVITY ***

Trunk  Release:

 

N/A

Alarm  Input Wire:

 

WHITE

AT PLUG IN CONVIENENCE CENTER **

Notes:

** Convenience Center Is Locate Under Driver's Dash Near Fire Wall (Listen for dome light relay). *** See Note #202 - Positive Pulse Door Lock Diagram.

IrishDoc 
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Joined: December 30, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 25, 2005 at 10:29 AM / IP Logged  
just study the 5-wire door lock diagram and install it exactly if you want the doorlocks to work.
Just A Hobby Installer
mnviking28 
Member - Posts: 28
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Joined: December 27, 2004
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: February 25, 2005 at 10:41 AM / IP Logged  

Dan,

I just did an '02 last week.  It was actually a pretty easy install.  A couple of tips for you...you can get to the lock/unlock, parking lights, and alarm disarm at the bcm which is right under the steering column.  This will keep you from having to dig for them in the driver's kick panel and at the headlight switch.  The lock/unlock are in the brown plug, the parking lights are in the light blue plug, and the disarm wire is in the purple plug.  Wiring colors are all the same as mentioned in the diagram above.  Make sure that you get the white ignition 2 wire hooked up.  If you don't, major transmission problems will follow.  Also, the best place I found to put the hood switch is on the brace on the driver's side that goes from the firewall over to the fender.  Good luck, let me know if you have any questions! 

MNViking28
mnviking28 
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Joined: December 27, 2004
Location: Minnesota, United States
Posted: February 25, 2005 at 10:45 AM / IP Logged  

IrishDoc,

This shouldn't be a 5 wire lock system, it should be a straight positive trip.  They aren't like the old Suburbans and pickups.  I have done 4 or 5 of these and they have all been a straight positive pulse to trip the locks.  Has anyone else seen one of these that is a reverse polarity?

MNViking28
dmurray14 
Member - Posts: 48
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Joined: December 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2005 at 9:02 AM / IP Logged  

Boomer and viking, thanks for the great posts. What do you mean about the White IGN 2 wire - do I just tie that in with the other ignition wire? You have me really nervous now that I'm going to screw up the transmission - how woudl that happen? Also, where is the BCM, and are the wire colors in there the same as in the diagram above? And one last question - what is PASSLOCK II - is that kind of like BMW's EWS (something I'm familiar with) that needs a transponder or something? Is it certain that I have this - only reason I ask is because I had extra plain metal duplicate keys made and they start the vehicle no problem - making me think there is no transponder system installed. Thanks for the help, hopefully I can do this!

Dan

Velocity Motors 
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Moderator spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Electrical Theory. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Fabrication. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Audio and Video. Click here for more info.spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: February 28, 2005 at 9:34 AM / IP Logged  
dmurray14 wrote:

Boomer and viking, thanks for the great posts. What do you mean about the White IGN 2 wire - do I just tie that in with the other ignition wire?

The remote starter unit will have a 2nd IGN output (-) or (+) depending on the system that you have. Most will be (-) that will trigger a relay to engage the 2nd IGN to power on during remote start. Use this diagram to trigger the 2md IGN with a (-) output from the alarm: http://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/N2P.jpg

If you do not have a designated (-) or (+) trigger output for the 2nd IGN wire, use this diagram : http://www.velocitymotorsport.com/images/install_notes/2nd_ignition_relay.jpg

dmurray14 wrote:

You have me really nervous now that I'm going to screw up the transmission - how woudl that happen?

If the 2nd IGN doesn't receive power during remote start, this circuit doesn't get activated when you take over with the key in the ignition, therefore the transmossion computer doesn't engage and you get harsh shifting almost right away. If this persists and you do not do anything about it, the transmission will get damged.

dmurray14 wrote:
 

Also, where is the BCM, and are the wire colors in there the same as in the diagram above?

The BCM is located behind the drivers side of the dash. The plugs on the BCM face towards the rear of the vehicle. You will be able to find all the wires there as listed above.

dmurray14 wrote:

And one last question - what is PASSLOCK II - is that kind of like BMW's EWS (something I'm familiar with) that needs a transponder or something?

Passlock II system explained

dmurray14 wrote:

Is it certain that I have this - only reason I ask is because I had extra plain metal duplicate keys made and they start the vehicle no problem - making me think there is no transponder system installed. Thanks for the help, hopefully I can do this!

Dan

The Passlock II system is not in the key anymore, it's in the ignition column.

Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
boomer_106 
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Joined: November 25, 2003
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2005 at 9:40 AM / IP Logged  
Great post by Jeff. The only thing I would add is do yourself a favor and buy a module called PLDATA. It is real simple to bypass passlock II with it. You being inexperienced this module will be well worth the money. It should be between $30-40 US.    If anyone finds it cheaper I'd like to know. Good luck you can do it.
iskidoo 
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Joined: December 08, 2002
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Posted: February 28, 2005 at 11:05 AM / IP Logged  
I was just looking on bypasskit.com's dealer order desk and saw that the PLDATA's are out of stock. I think they are replacing it with the GMBP which is also a 1-wire data interface. The difference is that the GMBP does GM Passkey 3 Transponder Immobilizer Overrride & GM Passlock 2 Immobilizer Override via data bus. Neither require a key and the cost difference appears to be about a dollar. The GMBP would be a better choice for shops because it has more compatability.
Alternatively, the PLXR does just Passlock 2 and is about 7 bucks cheaper but requires a little more wiring. It requires cutting a Passlock 2 wire and tapping another.
dmurray14 
Member - Posts: 48
Member spacespace
Joined: December 15, 2004
Location: United States
Posted: February 28, 2005 at 12:36 PM / IP Logged  

Wow, thanks for the GREAT info. I'll go ahead and get a PLXR. One other question - I should be using relays for all the starter wires I assume - do they usually come with the remote starter or do I get them seperately?

Thanks,

Dan

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