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the12volt`s installbay - Mobile Electronics Forums the12volt's install bay / Car Security and Convenience

Subject Topic: Power Window Module Wiring (Topic Closed Topic Closed)

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vseth
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Joined: March 29, 2005
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Posted: April 18, 2005 at 11:24 AM - IP Logged  

I've just installed keyless-entry and an alarm system in my car ( remote-starter almost done ), one of the pending items that i had purchased for this installation was a power window open/close module. I've found the power window harness near the driver's kick panel, here's the wiring info, so now i've got to hook in the module wires with it. The installation requires cutting the window wire connection between the switch and the motor. In the harness there are 6 wires for all the windows except for the drivers window, two wires for each window up & down. So would cutting the window up wires map to being the wire between the motor and the switch. There are two switches that map to each window, one the central switch on the driver's door, and then there's the switch for each window, on the particular door itself.

Here's the wiring info for the corolla's power windows:

LF Window up/dn yellow - green   A   drivers door switch
RF Window up/dn grn/red - blu/wht   A   drivers kick panel
LR Window up/dn red/grn - blu/blk   A   drivers kick panel
RR Window up/dn red/blk - blu/red   A   drivers kick panel

Here's the wiring info for the window open/close module:

You can also get it from the link ( the diagrams in the lower right side of the page ):

http:///.com/ebaymotors/dll?ViewItem&item=7910796601&category=33721

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mo12v
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Posted: April 18, 2005 at 12:57 PM - IP Logged  

Don't know what Year Corolla, but looks like you need RELAYS to accomplish a Reversal Rest At Ground Power Window Circuit
The Diagram only shows Negative or Positive Circuits and says Relays must be used for others
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You Might Be the One That Knows.
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vseth
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Posted: April 18, 2005 at 1:02 PM - IP Logged  

It's a 1998 Toyota Corolla LE ( Automatic ). I only want my four window's to roll-up automatically when the alarm is armed. Don't need roll down, don't have an aux button on my car remotes anyway.
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vseth
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Posted: April 18, 2005 at 2:24 PM - IP Logged  

From the directwire information, it shows all of the power windows as negative circuits. So do I need relays with this power window module ??? Would cutting the window close wires in the stock harness, and instead connecting the the two wires ( for each window ) from the window close modules map to what the circuit diagram requests ( in the hotlink of my previous post ). The circuit diagram basically requests, cutting the stock wire between the power window switch and the power window motor, and connecting the window module wires instead to the two-ends instead.

DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - TOYOTA / COROLLA / 1998 / Accessory

12volts white   +   ignition harness
Ignition black/white   +   ignition harness
Parking Lights+ green      bottom of fuse box
Parking Lights- lt green/black      steering column
Headlight red/white   -   steering column
Trunk/Hatch Release          
Power Sliding Door          
Speed Sense violet/white    4   center console 22 pin plug
Wipers blu/blk(L),blu/red(H   +   steering column
LF Window up/dn yellow - green   A   drivers door switch
RF Window up/dn grn/red - blu/wht   A   drivers kick panel
LR Window up/dn red/grn - blu/blk   A   drivers kick panel
RR Window up/dn red/blk - blu/red   A   drivers kick panel
Sun Roof open/close          
Sun Roof Limit/close          
Memory Seat 1          
Memory Seat 2          
Memory Seat 3          
Immobilizer Bypass Module: Required: No Type: N/A Part #: N/A
Notes: N/A

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cgalvin29
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Posted: April 19, 2005 at 2:24 AM - IP Logged  

from what i can see i dont think that your window mod will work the way you power windows work is that when the motor sees 12v on the up wire and Ground on the down wire it rolls the window up and when it sees a ground on the up wire ans 12v on the down wire it rolls the windows down now im not completely sure if you will have to hook up to the down wire for it to work because it may rest at ground or it may rest at open load or no connection, if its resting at ground then you should be able to cut the factory up wire and tag the motor side and switch side wires for the window mod to work if that doesnt work your going to have to get a window mod that rolls the windows up and down i reccomend either the dei ones or the autoloc ones i like dei's much better i think there much more reliable than the autoloc ones but the autoloc ones are much cheaper you will need a module for each window if you are doing up and down. I would try hooking it up to one window and seeing if it would work, you might also we able to use a relay on the window 3 and 4 wide to create a ground for windows 1 and 2 or just tag of of the original wire to create a relay than send a ground to the motor on rollup but also isolates it from the switch which is what the module it doing for you.
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vseth
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Posted: April 19, 2005 at 9:41 AM - IP Logged  

Circuit diagram for the relay connections would be very helpful. Thanks.
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vseth
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Posted: June 09, 2005 at 9:39 AM - IP Logged  

Some success, but not completed. As the circuit diagrams were not quite clear, took the trial and error approach to figuring out the wiring, I was only testing with one of my windows. Basically, there are 8 combinations of connections that were possible, use orange (+) or yellow (-) trigger wire to connect to alarm ( my alarm sends out a - trigger ), use red (+) or black (-) female connector of the closer to connect to the red/black male wire of the closer ( this is like a jumper setting based on if a + or - trigger is required to close the window in the car ), and finally connect the motor and switch ends of the rear left passenger window wire that I cut in my car to the two wires for the fourth window in the closer.

So in one of wiring combinations, the window did close, but when I disabled the alarm rather than when I enabled the alarm. So I kept on testing, in hope that one of the wiring combinations would result in the window to close on the alarm enable. It did not happen. Plus the bad news was that I was unable to reproduce the closing even with the alarm disabled. Infact I did not even hear the relays click in the closer in any of the combinations, so I'm hoping that I did not fry anything in the closer. The windows are all working fine. I'll try one more time with the wiring combinations to test it out. But any input on how to solve this problem, and now also how to verify if the closer is still actually functional.

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