2004 pt cruiser, dei 561t

Do I have to hook-up the factory arm and disarm wires in this application? If so, could someone provide a correct diagram with resistor values? I've come across several different variations and am unsure which is right. Will not hooking them up affect the operation of the remote start? Where do the wires on the 4-pin satellite harness get hooked-up? It seems that they would likely be used in conjunction with an after-market alarm and in my application I would not use them. The manual lists the following: 4-pin satellite harness diagram 1 Blue Status Output 2 Orange Accessory Trigger 3 Purple Starter Trigger 4 PinkIgnition Trigger Thank you all MIKE

MikeM2, the 561T is the 'no-remote' add on system from DEI. It is the exact same piece as the DEI 561R but has no transceiver. Spaceman, if you are using the factory keyless remotes to activate and deactivate the starter, I do not believe you need to worry about the factory disarm. Most (if not all) Chrysler's disarm when they see the ignition, and Sentry key.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Twelvoltz wrote: MikeM2, the 561T is the 'no-remote' add on system from DEI. It is the exact same piece as the DEI 561R but has no transceiver. Spaceman, if you are using the factory keyless remotes to activate and deactivate the starter, I do not believe you need to worry about the factory disarm. Most (if not all) Chrysler's disarm when they see the ignition, and Sentry key.

Excellent, that's what I initially thought as well. Thanks very much. I now have a new problem though; I keep blowing one of the 40A bus fuses under the hood of my PT. It's the one that feeds the ignition harness' accessory wire (black w/ orange stripe). I lost the HVAC fan, heated seats, power windows, and airbags until the fuse was found and replaced. Could someone please check my wiring? I'm sure I didn't accidentally ground anything. Perhaps I made an incorrect connection? I also need a suggestion on where to tie-in my input to the remote starter. Remote start harness >>> Vehicle wiring Primary Harness H1 H1/1 Lt. Grn/ Blk >>> Not used H1/2 Grn/Wht >>> Not used H1/3 Yel >>> Not used H1/4 Wht/Blu >>> Not used H1/5 Gry/Blk >>> Not used H1/6 Wht/Red >>> Activation Input (Haven’t decided where to tie- in yet) H1/7 RED / Wht >>> Not used H1/8 Blk >>> Dedicated Chassis Ground H1/9 Wht >>> Blk/Yel at light switch harness 4-pin Satellite Harness 1 Blu >>> Blu on 556CW Bypass 2 Org >>> Not used 3 Pur >>> Not used 4 Pnk >>> Not used Heavy-Gauge Relay Satellite Harness 1 Pnk >>> Blu at ignition harness 2 Pur >>> Yel at ignition harness 3 Org >>> Blk/Org at ignition harness 4 Red >>> Pnk/ Blk at ignition harness 5 Pnk/Wht >>> Blk/Gry at defrost switch 6 Red >>> Pnk/ Blk at ignition harness Remote Start Harness H2 H2/1 Blk/Wht >>> Provided toggle >>> Gry/Blk at parking brake switch H2/2 Vio/Wht >>> Blk/Gry at ignition coil H2/3 Brn >>> Wht/Tan at brake switch H2/4 Gry >>> Provided hood pin switch H2/5 Blu/Wht >>> Not used Thanks, MIKE

This information is cross referenced to DEI's information: "H1/6 Wht/Red >>> Activation Input (Haven’t decided where to tie- in yet)" Tie into Lock Motor ORANGE / black driver kick, door harness. This wire rests at ground and will pulse to +12V when the drivers door is locking both by the remote and the switch. "5 Pnk/Wht >>> Blk/Gry at defrost switch" Remove this for now...you will have to determine what type of system your rear defrost is before interfacing with it. Without having a dedicated defroster output I would not energize the rear defroster with the 561T. This may be what is causing that fuse to blow. I would tie this into the light GREEN / WHITE if you have AutoStick, if you do not have AutoStick leave it disconnected until you successfully remote start the vehicle. If when you remote start the vehicle and the blower motor or ac compressor do not turn on it will need to go to the blue/white second accessory and be reprogrammed to function as an accessory wire. "H2/1 Blk/Wht >>> Provided toggle >>> Gry/Blk at parking brake switch" This blk/wht should go to the provided toggle, but the other side of the toggle should be to ground. This wire needs to see ground for the RS to operate but should not see +12V. If you hook it up the way you have it the wire will see +12V every time you press the brake pedal. This switch will function as an on/off switch for the remote start. It will serve as an additional safety measure, allowing you to turn off the remote start if the vehicle is going in for service. Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Twelvoltz wrote: This information is cross referenced to DEI's information: "H1/6 Wht/Red >>> Activation Input (Haven’t decided where to tie- in yet)" Tie into Lock Motor ORANGE / black driver kick, door harness. This wire rests at ground and will pulse to +12V when the drivers door is locking both by the remote and the switch. "5 Pnk/Wht >>> Blk/Gry at defrost switch" Remove this for now...you will have to determine what type of system your rear defrost is before interfacing with it. Without having a dedicated defroster output I would not energize the rear defroster with the 561T. This may be what is causing that fuse to blow. I would tie this into the light GREEN / WHITE if you have AutoStick, if you do not have AutoStick leave it disconnected until you successfully remote start the vehicle. If when you remote start the vehicle and the blower motor or ac compressor do not turn on it will need to go to the blue/white second accessory and be reprogrammed to function as an accessory wire. "H2/1 Blk/Wht >>> Provided toggle >>> Gry/Blk at parking brake switch" This blk/wht should go to the provided toggle, but the other side of the toggle should be to ground. This wire needs to see ground for the RS to operate but should not see +12V. If you hook it up the way you have it the wire will see +12V every time you press the brake pedal. This switch will function as an on/off switch for the remote start. It will serve as an additional safety measure, allowing you to turn off the remote start if the vehicle is going in for service.

I do have Autostick. Which LtGrn/Wht wire are you referring to (which harness), and what function will this serve? Best Regards,

MIKE

DEI lists it, saying it would be there with the AutoStick option: DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - CHRYSLER / PT CRUISER / 2004 / Remote Start [PRINT THIS PAGE] 12volts      pink/black & red       +       ignition harness Starter      yellow       +       ignition harness Second Starter      N/A             Ignition      blue       +       ignition harness Second Ignition      lt. grn/wht (only w/AutoStick)      +       ignition harness Third Ignition      N/A             Accessory      BLACK/ orange       +       ignition harness Second Accessory      BLACK/ white       +       ignition harness Keysense      lt. blue       -       ignition harness Power Lock      WHITE/ green       -       driver kick, door harness Notes: Lock/arm requires a negative trigger thru a 3K (3000) ohm resistor. Unlock/disarm requires a negative trigger thru a 7.2K (7200) ohm resistor. Unlock requires a double pulse. MUST use relays. Also found at the keyless entry module located above the radio in the center of the dash. Can also use Directed 457C or 456L interface modules. Power Unlock      same wire as power lock             Lock Motor      ORANGE / black       5wi      driver kick, door harness Notes: Also found at the keyless entry module located above the radio in the center of the dash. Unlock Motor      pink/black       5wi      driver kick, door harness Notes: Also found at the keyless entry module located above the radio in the center of the dash. Parking Lights+      BLACK / YELLOW       +       headlight switch Notes: Also found at the keyless entry module located above the radio in the center of the dash. Parking Lights-      N/A             Hazards      same as turn signals             Turn Signal(L)      lt. grn (F), dk. grn/red (R)       +       steering column Turn Signal(R)      tan (F), BROWN / red (R)       +       steering column Reverse Light      PURPLE / black       +       Door Trigger      see notes       -       see notes Notes: The tan or tan/blue wire catches the driver door and is found in the driver kick panel. The blue/orange or tan/red catches the three passenger doors and is found in the passenger kick panel. Use both wires and diode isolate each. Also found at the keyless entry module located above the radio in the center of the dash. Dome Supervision      use door trigger             Trunk/Hatch Pin      tan/black       -       driver kick, harness to rear Notes: Also found at the keyless entry module located above the radio in the center of the dash. Hood Pin      BROWN / tan       -       hood pin switch Notes: Also found at the keyless entry module located above the radio in the center of the dash. Trunk/Hatch Release      N/A             Power Sliding Door      N/A             Factory Alarm Arm      arms with lock             Factory Alarm Disarm      disarms with unlock             Disarm No Unlock      single pulse the unlock wire             Tachometer      BLACK/ gray       ac       ignition coil Wait to start      N/A             Brake Wire      WHITE/ tan       +       brake pedal switch Parking Brake      gray/black       -       parking brake switch Horn Trigger      BLACK/ red       -       steering column Memory Seat 1      N/A             Memory Seat 2      N/A             Memory Seat 3      N/A             Interface Module:      Category: Immobilizer Bypass      Required: Yes      Type: Sentry Key Part #: 555CW Alternate Part1 #: 556UW Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 20402 Alternate Part3 #: DesignTech 29402 Notes: Standard on all models. Interface Module:      Category: Door Lock Interface      Required: Yes      Type: Data Bus Part #: 457CW Alternate Part1 #: 456LW Notes: Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Available warning       This wiring information is being provided free of charge on an "as is" basis, without any representation or warranty. It is your responsibility to verify any circuit before interfacing with it using a digital multimeter. Directed Electronics assumes no responsibility with regards to the accuracy or currency of this information. Proper installation in every case is and remains the responsibility of the installer. DEI assumes no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information. If it is not in the harness coming from the ignition switch it is probably not needed.Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

Twelvoltz wrote: 12volts      pink/black & red       +       ignition harness Ignition      blue       +       ignition harness Second Ignition      lt. grn/wht (only w/AutoStick)      +       ignition harness               Accessory      BLACK/ orange       +       ignition harness Second Accessory      BLACK/ white       +       ignition harness

Ok, now I understand about the lt. grn/wht wire. Couple of other questions: Should I connect both red leads from the high-current harness (12V inputs) to the pnk/blk wire in the ignition harness, or should one go to the red wire in the ignition harness? Mine has the pnk/blk and two reds. I'm not sure what their respective functions are. If I connect the org wire from the high-current harness to the blk/org wire in the ignition harness, what do I connect to the blk/wht in the ignition harness? Or is that connection even needed?Best Regards,

MIKE

Use one red and the pink/black for supply. The proper red will show +12V no matter what position the key is in, and should be a heavy gauge wire. You may not need to interface with the second accessory wire, if after a successful remote start you have warning indicators or a check engine light on, or the blower motor/ac compressor do not work then you will need to energize it. Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.

It's Alive! Thanks for all your help with my first install.Best Regards,

MIKE