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patching those holes in your door


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z03mz03m 
Copper - Posts: 237
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Joined: January 09, 2010
Location: Delaware, United States
Posted: April 20, 2010 at 8:49 AM / IP Logged  
I was wondering what the best way/ways to patch the factory holes in your doors is/are.
posted_image
I was thinking fiberglass? Anyone know of something better?
I'm not looking to make a sealed enclosure I just want a solid surface to Dynamat. I also know that Dynamat makes Dynaplate which they say is for this purpose but I've never seen anyone use it so if you have let me know.
Thanks
spmpdr 
Copper - Posts: 466
Copper spacespace
Joined: March 22, 2009
Location: Oregon, United States
Posted: April 20, 2010 at 9:08 PM / IP Logged  
With 1/8" plexi glass and all purpose caulking like this:
posted_image
very easy and works great!!!
-A vision without a plan is just a hallucination-
Velocity Motors 
Moderator - Posts: 12,602
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Joined: March 08, 2002
Location: Manitoba, Canada
Posted: April 21, 2010 at 7:08 AM / IP Logged  
Use 20 or higher gauge sheet metal and rivet it onto the door.
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
awdeclipse 
Copper - Posts: 288
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Joined: August 05, 2007
Location: Michigan, United States
Posted: April 21, 2010 at 9:53 AM / IP Logged  
Aren't these holes for service purposes primarily? Window regulator, door handle etc.
Riveting sheet metal to the door seems a little too permanent to me, I like the plexi glass and caulk idea myself. Easier to remove in the event you needed to.
icearrow6 
Copper - Posts: 495
Copper spacespace
Joined: February 02, 2009
Location: California, United States
Posted: April 21, 2010 at 2:28 PM / IP Logged  
Just dynamat the whole door with a single sheet of dynamat. better yet use the glass AND dynamat. LOL. it'll be one heavy door!
z03mz03m 
Copper - Posts: 237
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Joined: January 09, 2010
Location: Delaware, United States
Posted: April 23, 2010 at 3:30 PM / IP Logged  
Thanks for all the input.
Now i'm gunna sound like a dick posted_image and not do any of them because i found some 1" thick blue insulation foam board in my garage.
I would do the Plexiglas but I have no money right now and my doors have 4 of those service holes in them and two of them have not one flat point around them. so i figured this foam board is perfect because i can carve it with a knife and my dremel to fit those crazy holes then use caulk around it AND its insulation!
Thanks a lot for the posts, they helped me brainstormposted_image
Anyone know something that works really well on that tar that held on the plastic weather barrier stuff?
hawk thor 
Member - Posts: 4
Member spacespace
Joined: March 29, 2009
Location: Iceland
Posted: August 19, 2010 at 6:07 PM / IP Logged  
awdeclipse wrote:
Aren't these holes for service purposes primarily? Window regulator, door handle etc.
Riveting sheet metal to the door seems a little too permanent to me, I like the plexi glass and caulk idea myself. Easier to remove in the event you needed to.
You can just drill-out the rivets, remove cover, do repairs, re-fit cover, rivet. The plexiglass will be held on tight with the caulk and plexi is easy to brake if you try to pull it off or slide some tool behind it.
z03mz03m 
Copper - Posts: 237
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2010
Location: Delaware, United States
Posted: December 11, 2010 at 1:34 AM / IP Logged  
After having the foam in my driver door for a while it works great but I think I am going to fiberglass them so I can put lowes-a-mat on them...lol.

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