Joined: June 16, 2010 Location: Florida, United States Posts: 7
Posted: February 05, 2011 at 10:07 AM - IP Logged
This is going to be the first time I am building a blow through for a customer. I have always wanted to do one of these just never stepped up to the plate. I understand that I need to make a cut out for the cab and the bed, use an acordian gasket for weather protection and put the port in that piece. We are using two Kicker comp vr's in the back of a 93 S10. Here are the problems im having...
1. When building the box do you build a back piece for the box with a port to go through the blow through or do you just mount the box with an open backing to the bed?
2. Securing the box to the bed. I saw someone post in this forum that you should drill holes, use lag bolts or something of that nature, anti seise them, and coat them so they dont rust. Is this logical and is there another approach possibly?
Any help or tips would be appreciated it. If anybody has
Joined: January 14, 2006 Location: United States Posts: 703
Posted: February 14, 2011 at 3:06 PM - IP Logged
There are several ways to do this. This is the most common way for the shop I'm at:
For our blowthroughs (BTs) we prefer to mount the box to the cab and use a heavy gasket on the bed portion. That way, as little energy as possible is lost in the gasket and all the pressure is directed into the cab. As for ports/subs, etc., we have them on the baffle inside the cab. This also puts all the weight on the cab and mounting area, so again little energy and torquing is wasted.
We cut the cab and bed with a little extra opening on the bed.
We then add a flange around the box to be mounted and mount it to the cab itself. We use angled steel with heavy bolts welded and nuts for the inside of the cab. We then cut off any excess bolt and use beauty panels to finish off the interior.
For sealing around the flange on the outside of the cab, we use window/door expanding foam and then coat the area with paintable weather sealer. Then the heavy gasket is used around the bed portion to give support for the back end of the box. This will also absorb any of the chassis twisting so it won't damage the box and you won't see flexing subs inside the cab.
Our version is more work than other jobs, but it has the cleanest appearance in our views which is the 2nd most important aspect next to Sound Quality by only .1 points. lol.
The most common one I have heard of is to mount the subs and box to the bed with the cutout and then using an accordion gasket to tie it to the cab. It's easier, I'll admit, but I just don't like thelack of refinement in it and for me, that's SUPER Important!
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