2011 Hyundai Sonata Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial

Does anyone know if you can find the different male and female wiring connectors for the different plugs on the fuse box. I don't really want to splice into my wiring. I'd Rather use female plug and tie in to the wires i need from there, then route it back to the fuse box via another male connector coming from the female. Sorry if this is confusing... - Brian

Hi Brian,

It sounds like you would like to fabricate a "T-Connector" for the various harnesses that

must be spliced into for the remote starter / alarm systems' connections.  While this wasdone for the ignition harness of some very popular vehicles by Bulldog Security, it hasfaded away due to the ever changing plugs and connectors used.  Here is a link to BulldogSecurity's current offerings : http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/Category/1020-t-harnesses.aspxThey don't list the Sonata, but if this "T-Connector" matches your idea, it might be possible to do but very expensive.

Some vehicle manufacturers have a connector repair kit available at the parts counter that

would provide you the harness end connector.  However finding the connector style physically located in the fuse box assy or other computer modules ( BCM, ECM, etc. ) could be a problem.

That being said, a search of the WEB turned up this site :  http://www.aeromotive.us/product_connectors.html

From their info, it appears that they might be able to supply you the connectors you seek, with some limitations ( Connectors with over 6 cavities will only come with 6 wire leads ).   I have never dealt with them and don't know their policies ( they might have a minimum qty per order, etc ).There are many harnesses tapped into ( looks like 9 in the pictorial ) and most of them are morethat 6 pins so you will need to ask for extra M & F pins, if they won't supply fully pinned connectors. Good luck and please provide an update with you results.

Soldering is fun!

Sorry, but I just noticed something, better late than never, Essentially yes, the diode is nothing more than an electrical one way 'valve'. However, depending on the signal (+) vs (-), depends on which way the band of the diode faces. With the door pin wires (all (-) signals), you will want all of the bands facing towards the AK unit. So it will be: AK Input --> 6 diodes (band towards AK unit) --> one diode to each door / trunk input. Shouldn't the diode bands be towards the switches and AWAY from the unit.

Thanks for the pictures! It was very helpful. I could install my first remote starter by myself. What I bought. 1) Avital 4103LX Remote Start System with Two 4-Button Remote ($38.58) 2) Xpres DBALL Kit Databus all Interface Module ($44.47) 3) Directed Electronics Inc XKLOADER2 XpressKit ($26.49) Including Tax & Shipping, total cost was $148.59 (by amazon.com) Here is the wiring diagram. https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/12288608/Wiring.pdf

Wow, very nice diagram!    The Avital 4103 is a good system and should perform well.

Only a few things to make note of.

1.  The main purpose of the DB-ALL is the transponder by-pass.  While the U.S. market vehicles do not have this transponder

based ignition immobilizer system, the Canadian market vehicles do.  The added plus with the DB-ALL is that it will handle many other functions for you and save time during the installation.  ( Locks, alarm, tach, trunk release, etc )  The XKLoader2 cable isused to flash the DB-ALL with the correct firmware, 401.HKHT1 v1.09.

2.  While you could go with the D2D connection between the 4103 and the DB-ALL, going with W2W connections, as shown in the

excellent diagram will absolutely work flawlessly.

The only additions I would make, although not shown in the DB-ALL install guide, would be to use the 4103's Pink/White Flex

Relay output for the vehicles Blue Accessory2 ignition wire.  It's there and this will completely duplicate a normal key start. Program the Avital Menu 2, Item 6 to Option 2.

I believe the Canadian vehicles have a similar Parking Light system, so setting the 4103 for (-) Parking Light output and connecting

the 4103's White H1/9 Parking Light wire to the Sonata's Pink wire shown in the Pictorial will give Parking Light confirmation.

And lastly, the 4103's Brown H1/6 Horn Output wire is an optional connection for those that want audible command confirmation

and use of the Avital's Panic Mode.  Connect this wire to the Sonata's White wire shown in DKP and use the Avital's Menu 1, Item 1options to set the desired horn beep output length.

Very nice diagram and a great addition to this Pictorial for the Canadian market vehicles.  Thanks! 

Soldering is fun!

My 2012 Hyundai Sonata has the manufacturer installed remote starter. Yesterday morning I noticed that the heating controls had no power. Once I turned the key to the "on" position the temperature controls regained power and the heat came on. I was going to take a look at the wiring tonight and see if a wire came loose/fuse blew. I was hoping to get pointed in the right direction on which wire/fuse I should be looking for before I go on a wild goose chase. Thanks for the article.

The factory remote start system looks like it is pretty much plug-n-play.  I was not able to find an install guide for that system to see if there were fuses for the Ignition output wires.  My first thought would be that perhaps your 2012 vehicle was still coveredby the Hyundai warranty and a trip to the dealer would be the best first option.Soldering is fun!

kreg357 wrote: 2011 Hyundai Sonata remote start with keyless entry DIY pictorial. Notes : This was a basic U.S. domestic market Sonata GLS.  This vehicle has a Factory Alarm and a standard key ( non-PTS ). U.S. market Sonata's without Push To Start do not have a transponder immobilizer system, so no bypass module is necessary.  The Factory FOB's do not work while the engine is running so a R/S system with keyless entry is suggested.  The Factory Alarm will not trigger with just a remote start so a Disarm is only necessary with an Unlock or Trunk Release.  This vehicle does not have "one touch starting" so it is a candidate for Anti-Grind and Tach Mode starting. Disassembly : Using a non-marring trim tool, remove the dash side panel.  The arrow indicates a notch for trim tool insertion. Remove the two screws indicated in this photo : Remove the two screws shown in this picture and release the lower dash panel from the side and then pull straight away from the dash.  The are three retainer clips along the top edge. Remove the knee plate by removing the four 10mm bolts shown with Yellow arrows and the one 10mm nut shown with the orange arrow. Remove the one screw shown at the underside of the steering column. Remove two screws located at 3 and 9 O'Clock ( 3 O'Clock shown ).  Then separate the upper and lower halves of the steering column cover and remove both. Not shown is the Drivers Kick Panel removal.  The hood release lever is remover by compressing the pivot shaft fingers and pulling the lever straight off the shaft.  Remove the door sill trim by lifting it straight up then grasp the DKP and remove it by pulling it back and away. Wiring : This is a picture of the lower right corner of the dash fuse box.  The three wires in the Black plug are an alternate +12V power source, each at 30 Amps.  Close-ups to follow. This is a close up of the White 24 Pin Plug with the wire marked. This is a close-up of the Hood Pin wire. Here is a shot of the left side of the steering column. This is a close up of the Main Ignition Harness.  Use caution / be gentle when disconnecting this plug, it can cause the ignition switch to come apart. This is a picture of the Keysense wire at the right side of the steering column.  Note that the wire color changes at each side of the connector junction. Here is a photo of the Driver Kick Panel area. The Brake wire is located in the DKP, top plug, pictured below (close-up). Also in the DKP, bottom plug, is the Horn wire (close-up). The Parking Lights can be found either at the Headlight Switch connector in the steering column... or the BCM, which in located under the dash to the right side of the steering column.  Also shown is the Rear Defrost wire and the Auto Headlights wire.  The Rear Defrost requires a (-) pulse to turn on and will light the Defrost light at the console switch.  Another pulse will turn it off. This is a picture of a Tach source, found at any Spark Plug Coil.  ( Engine cover removed, lift straight up, retained by four pins.) Notes : There are several large grommets located in the firewall for wire pass thru. On this vehicle, a double pulse to the two Disarm wires ( Orange & Brown ) will also unlock the doors.

Hey everyone, I'm new to the forum. I have read through your install and I'm very interested if anyone knows or has seen any write up like this for a 2008 Hyundai sonata. I have been looking for months and cannot find anything similar and would really appriciate everyones help. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks P.s. I just want to say GREAT JOB to Kreg357 for the effort and dedication the resulted in this great write up.

Great write up and conversation. Can someone suggest a 2-way remote starter kit for DIY for a 2011 Sonata with standard key and no transponder (I am in the US)? If I cannot get a 2-way (I mean that the FOB transmits and receives data and indicates the car did start) I am leaning toward getting the OEM version - I have found it on eBay for $230. I would prefer the 2-way because at work I cannot see the car without going outside, which kind of defeats the purpose! But I am a bit lost with the different brands, models, features, availability... I just want remote start with feedback and a range of 500' or so. I just found the Viper 4806v available on Amazon for $165. I like the look of this one, and Viper seems to be a reliable brand at this time. Anyone have any comments or gotcha's that I should be aware of? Thanks.

The Viper 4806V is a nice system and should perform well in your Sonata.  There will be several programming changes necessary.  The Defrost feature and the two-way range make it ideal for your requirements.  Just be advised that the system will come with a brief 2 page guide, not a complete / detailed install guide.  Download the older Viper 5701 guide found in the Downloads section and use that for the wire function descriptions.  Most all of the wire colors have remained the same over the years. Soldering is fun!