2001 escape, avital 4113

Chris Luongo wrote: That car should automatically disarm with remote start. If you're only installing a 1-button, I wouldn't worry about disarm.

Not without keysense.

metz35 wrote: I've never seen a negative disarm unlock the doors on a ford

Double pulse on the disarm wire unlocks this truck, Diode isolate your unlock and disarm wires and connect both to this wire.  The truck will remain locked during start. 

simplyfalling wrote: [QUOTE=Chris Luongo]That car should automatically disarm with remote start. If you're only installing a 1-button, I wouldn't worry about disarm.

Not without keysense.

What you mean keysense? If I do the disarm wire will it be ok? and do i want the bands facing the viper?

lucasoil4u wrote: What you mean keysense? If I do the disarm wire will it be ok? and do i want the bands facing the viper?

If you hook up to keysense it will disarm with no unlock. For door trigger wires to a single alarm trigger input you want the diodes band towards the viper so one door can't back feed to the others. For the unlock and disarm it's to protect the alarm.

So bands facing towards the viper?

Towards the viper with bands. Look at the link for Pics more info: How-to-guides - Diode applications

lurch228 wrote: lucasoil4u wrote: What you mean keysense? If I do the disarm wire will it be ok? and do i want the bands facing the viper? If you hook up to keysense it will disarm with no unlock. Correction(For Negative door triggers trigger wires to a single alarm trigger input you want the diodes band towards the doors so one door can't back feed to the others.) For the unlock and disarm it's to protect the alarm.

lurch228 wrote: metz35 wrote: I've never seen a negative disarm unlock the doors on a ford If it doesn't unlock with the disarm, then diode isolate (Band towards the viper)to both the unlock and disarm, from the viper unlock. As the arm wire does lock the doors. DIRECTWIRE™ WIRING INFORMATION - FORD / ESCAPE / 2001 / Security Power Lock pink/white   - DKP or 26 pin plug @ GEM Notes: Lock requires a negative trigger thru a 1,000 ohm resistor. Unlock is a negative trigger. Must use relay on both.

I understand the role of the resistor. However, I am a little unclear on the "... unlock is a negative trigger. MUST USE RELAY ON BOTH." How exactly would I configure the relay(s)? And is it true the unlock and lock functions on a ground only trigger? Thanks for your help and advice.

The relay is to overcome the resistance which would be too much for the low current output from the alarm-R/S. NEG (-) output to 85, 12V+ constant to 86 2amp fuse (share 3amp for both relays). Good ground, DKP bolt etc. to 87. Output from 30. Rather a wide question here, there are POS (+) triggers on some vehicles. But yes when using an alarm's low lock/unlocks you're generally triggering OEM relays. In fact you're emulating turning the key in a lock.

I wired up a couple of relays based upon the following configuration:

negative 250mP "lock and unlock" pulse from the remote starter to each relay= pin 85

12 volt connection to positive 86 (3 amp fuse attached and shared to both relays)

grounded wires together from pin 87[/LIST}
{LIST]each wire (from pin 30) were attached to the door lock wire (Pink/white wire)
This configuration does neither lock or unlock the doors. Any idea on what I've done wrong?

1K resister after 30 in the lock line.