2000-2003 Ford Taurus Remote Start w/Keyless Pictorial

A happy Wife is very important.  Good to hear it's installed and working properly.  I'll make a note of that rear Defroster

wire for the next Taurus of that generation.  Testing the trunk relay should be easy, it's just a switch controlled by an electro-magnet.  I have soldered wires directly on to the terminal lugs with no ill effects.

Better order a 1 lb roll of solder.  Once the word gets out to friends and relatives about your R/S install, you could be

very busy.   

Soldering is fun!

I might be willing to buy a 2lb. roll if I can figure this one out, : The trunk release has got me stumped. I tried a few things and I am tire and its late. Thought I'd throw my thoughts out here and get to bed. I wired 10A fused +12V constant feed from vehicle LtGrn/Purple (which is also connector H/3,H/5, or H/8) to Relay coil 86 tied to Relay leg 30. The other side of relay coil 85 has (-)200mA RED / Wht Trunk Release Output of Viper. The remaining Relay 87 went to Release solenoid coil. OK, good, (-) output energizing relay to send +12V to solenoid. Didn't function. Investigation found my added +12V constant feed 10A fuse to Relay 86/30 blown. Replaced, but again it blew. Put 2A fuse across dash switch and trunk popped, but fuse OK. Removed relay and put 10A fused lead wired that was Relay 86 and put it to solenoid coil Gray/Red wire. Fuse blew. hmmm...Then I got really tired and tried wiring the relay as it was for reverse polarity, but used the hot side of the dash trunk switch as the pins 86 and 30 of the relay, no go. Of course I didn't think to fuse this hot wire, although the vehicle has it fused at 20A. So, the momentary trunk release dash switch Violet / YELLOW is hot all times at +11.9V. with Gray/Red other side to release solenoid coil. The constant feed from below dash LtGrn/Purple shows 12.9V. Any ideas so far? What is the output (-) relative to? Ground or 12V+? How can I test the output for functionality now? Maybe I blew the output transistor? I did try to measure this (-) output to ground with a meter set on stun... I mean on audible continuity and pressing the remote button. I now hope I didn't inject too much into the transistor. It appears to have functioned a couple of times, enough to blow the fuse the first couple of times, but now I'd like to know that it is still functioning. I then hope to figure out how to use this (-) trigger to get the trunk release to function. Maybe I'm not seeing a simple thing you could point out. Thanks again, Patrick

How about this relay diagram... 86 - remains fused and to your lt GREEN/ purple 12 volt source 85 - remains to your trunk output from viper 87 - remains at the trunk release wire behind the switch 30 - connect to the other wire behind the trunk release switch This will duplicate what you did with the 2 amp fuse when the relay activates.

 X2 with Flobee4.  Before adding the relay back into the circuit, reconnect the cut Gray/Red wire and verify that the cars Trunk Release switch is working normally.  It is possible that the "5 wire REV" relay test blew the vehicles trunk release circuit fuse.Soldering is fun!

Thanks guys, I think I did as flobee4 suggests, I don't think it worked, but I'll try again. I know the OEM release is still working, OEM fuses intact. I was wondering if I burned the trunk output out since it didn't work. That's why I was wondering how to test for output function with either LED or meter. Off to work now, I'll see about relay hookups with 30 to other dash switch wire per above tonight.

Using a DMM to test the Viper 4104 H2/5 RED / White (-) 200mA Trunk Release output :

Set the DMM to 20 V DC range. 

Connect the Red test lead to +12V constant.  Connect the Black test lead to the H2/5 RED / White wire. Press the Viper remote AUX button for 2 seconds.  The Parking lights should flash and the DMM should go to +12 volts while the AUX button is depressed.

If this works and the relays' coil tests OK, it is possible the Vipers' output is working but not at full power and the relays coil

load is too much for it.  You could try using the AUX1 output for the trunk release relay control instead.

Was this Viper a re-furb unit?

Soldering is fun!

Thanks guys, ya kreg357, it is a "refurbish by manufacturer" unit. I didn't know this till I received it in a white box labeled as such. I should've known from the price, I paid $59.99 for it, (although the remotes were shrink wrapped and new looking when received) I got home and used my 12V constant source as Relay coil power and Viper Trunk Output (-) as coil trigger; 85, 86, then both sides of Dash momentary switch to 87/30 of Relay. OK, then Press and Hold remote Aux button and...it works! I was pretty exhausted last night and was feeling pretty skittish about pressing and holding any button down for fear of blowing something. You gotta hold button 2-3 seconds before activation! Awesome you guys! Thank you so much for your interest and aid in my endeavor. You have affected a couple of people more than you may think and we both thank you! God Bless us all, Patrick

Good job, Patrick! 

Most of the re-furb units come with brand new remotes & new / un-used wire harnesses and typically work fine.  We have seen a few on this forum that had issues but whether it was re-furb quality control or DIYer install error is not clear.

Many R/S systems require a 2 - 3 second press and hold for the Trunk Release and the output will continue ( for up to another 5 seconds ) if the button is held.

Anyway, it's all installed and working.  The Wife is happy.  You have two working, unique, keys.  If you plan on keeping the car for several more years, now is the time to buy a blank transponder key ( $8 EBay ), get it cut at the local hardware store ( $2 ) and program it yourself to the car ( similar process to programming the bypass module ).   It will function just like a Factory key for all intents and purposes ( it isn't a clone ).  Plus it's a lot cheaper than the one you just had made by the dealer.

Soldering is fun!

I am installing the Viper 4205v on my 2003 ford Taurus. I was wondering where i connect the Satellite Harness to and i had a few questions about where to hook up the activation input and the ground when locked.

For the basic R/S install the above mentioned wires will not be used :

H1/4  WHITE/ BLUE  (-) ACTIVATION INPUTH1/5  ORANGE  (-) GROUND WHEN LOCKED

Is this is the Satellite Harness you are referring to ?

4-pin satellite harness diagram1  BLUE  STATUS OUTPUT2  ORANGE  (-) ACCESSORY OUTPUT3  PURPLE  (-) STARTER OUTPUT4  PINK  (-) IGNITION OUTPUT

Depending on the bypass module used and it's connection mode ( W2W or D2D ), you might

use the BLUE  STATUS OUTPUT wire.   The other wires in that harness are not necessary withthe typical install on your Taurus.

Soldering is fun!