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Advice, Solderless Crimpers


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burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: August 11, 2014 at 7:56 AM / IP Logged  
ronemca wrote:
The search has concluded. A frenzy of online searching yielded a source where they were giving these beauties away for less than $60 so I pulled the trigger. I have been mighty happy with my other two IDEAL tools...and I expect more of the same with this one. I got it from here where they even offer free shipping on purchases of $150 or greater. Advice, Solderless Crimpers - Page 4 -- posted image.
Good choice, Ideal are a great line of tools as well. Professional-grade, in many cases.
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
ronemca 
Copper - Posts: 107
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 09, 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: August 11, 2014 at 8:53 AM / IP Logged  
I had another really close look at the [Chinese] no-name tool that the IDEAL tool is replacing. As I have tried to say before, the lower jaw closes at quite an angle; when the dies come completely together (i.e. they cannot be closed any more) they are only touching each other on the side with the three coloured dots. On the other side there is a gap of about 2mm. I think I am doomed to fail every time with such a shoddy piece of "workmanship".
ronemca 
Copper - Posts: 107
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 09, 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: September 19, 2014 at 8:05 PM / IP Logged  
Finally! I broke out the new toy (oops - "tool") to replace a 16g butt connector in the truck. I actually used -- for the first time ever -- one of my recently-purchased COOL SEAL connectors, and it went just fine.
That said, I realize the act of attaching a butt connector to join two single wires is hardly worthy of being called a "process", but for lack of a better term...the process went smoothly and the joint seems very secure.
I look forward to my next "significant" project...when I can do a few different styles and/or in some hard to reach areas. But at first blush, the IDEAL tool seems first rate.
burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: September 19, 2014 at 11:06 PM / IP Logged  
So what you're saying is, you've found the ideal tool for the job?
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
ronemca 
Copper - Posts: 107
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 09, 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: September 20, 2014 at 12:16 PM / IP Logged  
burntkat wrote:
So what you're saying is, you've found the ideal tool for the job?
Oh Man - that is too funny. What a card! Honestly...you're wasting your talent trolling about here on the 'net. You should be in 'Vegas or NY bringin' down da house with your rapier wit. Advice, Solderless Crimpers - Page 4 -- posted image.
But seriously, folks...
It's good to hear from you again, old friend (extreme emphasis on the "old" part) Why - I heard they found a few rocks in Arizona that might be older than you!
But seriously, folks...
I bet when you went to school they didn't even have history class!
(I could go on...)
But as for the COOL SEAL connectors...
I guess they'd be better than non COOL SEAL connectors under the hood, or in areas where there may be moisture present...but I'm guessing they're wasted in the cabin. I dunno - I am very much a greenhorn in this area.
burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: September 20, 2014 at 2:55 PM / IP Logged  
I'm not familiar with the Cool Seal connectors, but I suspect they may indeed be wasted in an automotive use, full stop.
I solder everything under the hood that doesn't need to be removable for troubleshooting, and most stuff in the cabin. In a Marine environment (commercial use), I solder everything (unless it's a socket, like the attachment to a relay). Anything that has a socket/plug gets dielectric grease (can't remember the name, it's also an Ideal product, IIRC).
In Military installations, I would just follow the build sheet- some of it gets the above treatment, some of it gets wire-wrapped, some goes to terminal blocks or Canon plugs- none of which apply here.
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
howie ll 
Pot Metal - Posts: 16,466
Pot Metal spacespace
Joined: January 09, 2007
Location: United Kingdom
Posted: September 20, 2014 at 4:07 PM / IP Logged  
X 2 with BK here, only seem to use crimpers for ring terminals for grounds and receptacles for pin switches. I solder everything else.
BK, it's lithium grease by the way.
ronemca 
Copper - Posts: 107
Copper spacespace
Joined: November 09, 2012
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: September 20, 2014 at 6:16 PM / IP Logged  
Interesting! I have been casually thinking of asking about that "special" grease. For years I've been putting dielectric grease on/in weather-exposed connections...believing it to be a smart idea. But a few weeks ago I learned that "dielectric" is actually synonymous with "conductive". I guess I have always just assumed it was insulative (yeah - I made that up...but you got it, didn't you?)
Clearly the primary goal is moisture & corrosion resistance, yes? And it's good to learn that Lithium is the preferred choice. But if it is not necessary for the grease to be conductive...then why Lithium vs. any other random grease that may be laying around? Or silicone?
burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: February 26, 2015 at 8:31 AM / IP Logged  
howie ll wrote:
BK, it's lithium grease by the way.
Been a while, sorry I missed this reply- I've been focusing on my certifications at work and metal fabrication on my Jeep.
No, the product I use is Ideal's NOALOX:
http://www.grainger.com/product/6YH33?cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLAC-_-Lubrication-_-Lubricants-_-6YH33&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=6YH33&gclid=Cj0KEQiApbunBRDs0fba3dz484cBEiQAMsx-p9GrJspuqbNDn3qF7NmXEfbp2e3WFvV-Bl1aaeEkHy4aAjcK8P8HAQ
You can actually get it at Lowe's, and of course any industrial electrical supply house (like Grainger, above) carries it.
It surely has lithium grease in it- but it also has a bunch of other stuff. I've gotten into the habit of putting a dab of it on each end of batteries in all my battery-op gear. It seems like they last longer, work better, and I know for a fact I don't have the corrosion problems I used to have (for instance, in my oldschool incandescent Mag lights in my truck).
Just don't get it on you. The stuff is tenacious, and will ruin clothing for certain.
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
burntkat 
Copper - Posts: 143
Copper spaceThis member has made a donation to the12volt.com. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: October 26, 2003
Location: South Carolina, United States
Posted: February 26, 2015 at 8:38 AM / IP Logged  
ronemca wrote:
Interesting! I have been casually thinking of asking about that "special" grease. For years I've been putting dielectric grease on/in weather-exposed connections...believing it to be a smart idea. But a few weeks ago I learned that "dielectric" is actually synonymous with "conductive". I guess I have always just assumed it was insulative (yeah - I made that up...but you got it, didn't you?)
Clearly the primary goal is moisture & corrosion resistance, yes? And it's good to learn that Lithium is the preferred choice. But if it is not necessary for the grease to be conductive...then why Lithium vs. any other random grease that may be laying around? Or silicone?
Actually, Dielectric doesn't mean conductive. It means insulative:
[Quote]di·e·lec·tric
ˌdīəˈlektrik/
Physics
adjective
adjective: dielectric
    1.
    having the property of transmitting electric force without conduction; insulating.
noun
noun: dielectric; plural noun: dielectrics
    1.
    a medium or substance that transmits electric force without conduction; an insulator.
[/quote]
First thing that comes to mind is the dielectric layers in a capacitor.
You are correct in your initial assumption. The idea of the grease is to keep moisture out and corrosion (in this case more of a patina, as when copper sits in the environment) at bay, as both increase the resistance to current flow. The conduction in the circuits is provided by the contacts, doesn't need any help other than to keep the environment out.
Any grease is counterindicated when you're soldering, though. Make a nice joint with rosin-core electrical solder, clean off any excess flux, cover with heatshrink (preferably the good stuff with the adhesive inside), and you're done.
"Always listen to experts. They'll tell you what can't be done, and why. Then do it. - Robert A. Heinlein"
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