car battery & system problems,plausible?

Pull each fuse one at a time, check continuity using a DMM. DO NOT REMOVE FACTORY IMMOBILISER!! It sends a data signal to the ECU to start the car, removing without access to a VW dealer diagnostic will disable starting completely, only serviceable or turned off via a dealer! If aftermarket by all means a bad solder joint on it's ignition output is probably a root cause of your grief.

Oh I've been advised step by step instruction. And I could option one of those replacement bypass immo's on evilbay. Either way its coming out, I think anything that has the amount of control those two have isn't meant to be especially when the van can't compensate for one breaking down and can't diagnosis it !?!. S.t.r.a.n.g.e auto. Yes, lots of warnings about errors from unsurgical removals.

Can't take this any further, removing the OEM immobiliser without dealer level or locksmith level 3 diagnostics? You've been warned!!

One day I might put in another or beef up with alarm system but for now the cost of replacement parts overwhelms me. You've got threads on it yourselves! but don't have to worry with this one, I just can't find the source of the problem.

OK I'm back and with some interesting .....things. First, the problem seems (after much tinkering) the starter is the main contributor in a earthing catastrophe with that broken planetary cup allowing the inside motor to touch the rest of the housing..what a stupid design!. Not a warped ecu/immo. Anyway this last enquiry is about such electrical discharges running through connected, presumably earthed areas !? Now with a positive charge. Can the engine, not with a capability to function as an earthing point ,really transfer the current EFFICIENTLY around a large coverage to get into places that I should look to replace because it no longer functioned that way? I can't add much as it seems to me the main bulk of the car couldn't be able to reverse the flow if a direct link to the battery is instead of its capacity to earth, but that's why I've asked, to be sure...as most of the dead electric parts piles up. Could it sustain against it?

Well the number of times we stress the need for good earths... Bad power earths can destroy equipment via alternate paths, or from overvoltage (especially with externally regulated alternators) and are often the cause of erratic behaviour - eg, no light when both (single bulb) tails & brake are on. I have often given examples of how metal to metal may not conduct well, or how often extra engine to body earths are added. But if your starter cranks then your engine to battery earth should be ok for other loads assuming a good engine-body earth (especially if the batt- goes direct to the engine and then to the body) but reduction starters may operate well below 6V (eg, a 0.1 Ohm path resistance).      You have to check the earth voltage drops under load (eg, when cranking to test battery to engine, and with full beams etc for battery to body/chassis). I did say your starter could be jamming. Starter shorts behave similarly but I expected that to have been noted or checked when your starter motor was cleaned. I don't know what you mean by reversing current flows. Good earths and bonding are not diodic. I guess it must be fun having all those parts piling up? But I cannot support that sort of wastage nor potential destruction. Either learn about automotive electrics or take it to an auto electrician and spend your money on better things.

X 2 with Peter, you're over analysing and missing something obvious and simple.

Well your around the right area but I cannot see the physical relation. eg. Exactly as a relay 'shorted' fused open and can never work correctly again yet works enough to allow current through, it shows exactly those elements that power begins flowing but is stopped at that relay, where a "cross current" occurs somewhere to arc against the whole van. Like you i assume the earths or asscociated. A lot of clicking occurs when turning the key, then they don't after some tries. No electrical burning smells, physical blackening, sparks sounds or feeling electricity shocking from metal. So if the circuit remains open to the earthing system what connected areas will (or rather how much to a degree of effect) fluctuate because they're connected to the frame effected. The starter works now its aligned but when connected won't turn at all. So...at least the shop will have cleaned parts to work with.

Clicking is bad battery, bad contacts or wires, or faulty starter. The starter has no fuse and its solenoid supplies +12V to the motor windings as well as augmenting the solenoid (key switch) +12V. So you have heavy +12V to it and when you connect its solenoid +12V it does not turn? Any sustained arc is a fault. Replace arcing relays - they are faulty. Switching off stuff does not result in short-sustaining arcs. Isolate things till you find where the arc is.

Guess so. .... The starter just needed aligning when the new planetary cup went in, wire brushed all connectives so it has very little excuse for no function. Mysterious. Wiring. Could the ecu have something to do with this? Unless the large disturbance is from a different place, arcs the earth creating the same problem 'TO' the starter motor! What's that large..?