2006 hummer h3 dei1603 issues

Howdy I posted a while back looking for info but haven't been successful in my search. I recently bought a 2006 Hummer H3 for my detailing and automotive modification business's company vehicle with the intention of loading it up with accessories. We do a tone of remote starts but none of my guys have ever done a H3 and we had no idea how wacky the ignition set up was. We tried 3 different bypass modules and they'd work - for a day or two - then crap out. We went back to old school relays and resistors using DEI1603 - we matched the ohms within .05% (way closer than absolutely necessary) but the VATS light flashes and it won't start with the remote unless the retained accessory power is still on from previously starting it with the key. So I can start it - push the remote start button - and pull the key and it stays running. It just won't cold start. There are a few variations of 1603 out there - I'm wondering if anyone has had absolute success with a certain one?Jermsy

I've done many of these. I have only had an issue like this when using older dball modules. The new ones or the dball2 or xk09 or an idatalink ads al ca or or even a fortin have ALL done well for me.Gary Sather

I've done only a few H3's.  Always with an ADS DL module flashed with the GM4 firmware in W2W mode.  Works like a champ with no "come-backs":  Just make sure your bypass module's Chassis Ground connection is 100%.Soldering is fun!

Fixed: DEI 1603 called for the ignition of the car OR the remote start with a diode feeding into the relay. I fed both (instead of either) through the diode into the relay and it has started 30+ times with no issues. Thanks for the suggestions - I just didn't want to throw another module on there for $$ when I've got plenty of relays and resistors laying around the shop for free.Jermsy

kreg357 - i have seen other posts on this site saying use the ADS AL-CA module or the ADS DL. im also doing a 06 H3 which is driving me to drink so im curious what the difference between the two is - both are made by Idatalink, yes? thanks

Yes, both modules are made by iDatalink.  The ADS AL-CA is CAN bus capable and slightly more expensive than the ADS DL module.

While either module will work, for vehicles like the Hummer H3, the ADS DL provides all the necessary functions and outputs at a lowercost. 

Your big challenge with using the ADS module is getting one with the correct firmware ( GM4 ).  These modules can be flashed with a

wide selection of firmware to support many vehicles and remote starter systems.  Professionals can stock a few modules ( ADS TB, ADS DL and ADS AL-CA ) and select the most appropriate module and load it with the needed firmware at the time of install.  To do it yourself, you will need the ADS USB cable ( ~$35 ) to flash the module and registered dealer access to the Weblink site.

There might be some online sellers that will flash the module at your request prior to shipment.

Soldering is fun!

Thank you very much . very important info to have as i was perusing ebay for these modules.... --much appreciated

You don't see too many ADS DL's online, the ADS AL-CA might be easier to find. 

What brand remote starter are you planning to use?  If it's a DEI product, the FLCAN module would be the better choice.  It's a re-badged ADS AL-CA but comes with the correct D2D harness and the DBI D2D firmware is the native option.

Either way, work with the seller via messages to get the correct module and firmware for your car and chosen RS system.

Soldering is fun!

the system that I put in is a Stellar RS1050- my goal was trying to find one that piggybacked off of OEM keyless for a start signal so as to avoid multiple remotes. (im a regular auto tech by trade who used to do these 10+ years ago, not an installer but I was doing this for one of my good customers ) and i was considering swapping it out for a different system altogether since this one was giving me stress and the seller already gave me a refund (instead of good tech support) so im torn between trying a bypass with the stellar unit (which i tried to do the double relay and resistor method) or just yanking it and trying a different system....doesnt seem to be too many out there that can be done in "piggyback" fashion....

The Stella RS1050 is an "off-brand" unit, not a normal "major manufacturer" item.  That being said, it should work for your purposes with a

few considerations.   The system is looking for 3 (-) input triggers as a remote start imitation command, so you would need a relay toconvert the drivers door lock motor signal from (+) to (-).  Lock Motor    Gray  5 wire    @ driver kick, door harness   A 10 Amp mini-relaywired like this would do the trick :Relay Pin 85 and 87 to Chassis GroundRelay Pin 86 to Hummer H3 Gray Lock wireRelay Pin 30 to RS1050 Pink (-) Activation Input

Personally, for the money, I would go with a basic R/S w/keyless system, like the Avital 4103LX.  They can be had for under $50.  After

9 years, the factory FOB's are probably pretty tired, so new ones that did everything the old ones did, would be welcomed.   Plus theyhave additional range.  The FLCAN module would be good with this system and provide door lock and Factory alarm control.  That would put the price at about $100 for parts and make your life easier.  Other decent systems include the Viper 4105V, Compustar CS800-sand the Prestige APS57E.  These systems are around $60.

Soldering is fun!