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2015 nissan rogue, viper 5706v


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jsigna 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2014
Posted: February 15, 2015 at 11:58 AM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jsigna
Hey Guys. I am going to be doing an install for my uncle next week and want to see if you guys could help me with a few things. I will be installing a Viper 5706v into a PTS 2015 Nissan Rogue. I will be using an iDataLink ALCA module as for bypass.
The iDataLink guide as shown below is D2D compatible so I will definitely opt for that.
A decent amount of wiring should be covered from that D2D connection including the Starter wiring.
A Warning Note is mentioned to not connect any other Accessory, Ignition, or Starter wiring from the RS directly to the Car. Sounds great but now that makes me question a few things. Which of the Heavy Gauge Wires from the RS should I wire to the car?
The bypass module calls for the Ignition Wiring from the RS to be tapped into the Car and bypass module.
Simple enough. I am assuming the #10 Pin of the heavy gauge harness will be the wire to connect to the OBDII port alone with the Bypass module (with a diode).
But what about powering this stuff? I assume I need to power #5 pin on the bypass module so that when you activate RS from the remote the Pink heavy gauge wire can engage the Bypass Module and Car.
I need to know if I am correct on that.
Also I need to know if I should connect heavy gauge pin #2 as well?
From what I see here I should not touch any ACC, or Starter Wires.
I would really appreciate any help on this. I am going to attach pictures below of the RS install guide and Bypass Module wiring as well.
Thank you guys for your knowledge!
2015 nissan rogue, viper 5706v -- posted image.
2015 nissan rogue, viper 5706v -- posted image.
sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
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Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: February 15, 2015 at 2:31 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote sparkie
Follow the install guide exactly like it is shown. The ignition wires for both the bypass and remote starter are inputs to the 2 modules. They allow the units to know when the ignition is ON. DO NOT connect any other wires other than those shown with the exception of the parking lights. You can eliminate the diode if you only connect the remote starter's pink wire in the 10 pin connector. The only wire you need in the 10 pin plug is the pink. You don't need any of the other wires in the 10 pin plug. The parking lights are positive and use 3 separate circuits which must be isolated (usually through relays).
sparky
Mike M2 
Platinum - Posts: 2,652
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Joined: June 29, 2005
Location: United States
Posted: February 15, 2015 at 4:38 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote Mike M2
Couple things, DEI products tend to work poorly in data modes with Idatalink so you may consider hard wiring it.
If you do, you will need to power up #2 along with #5 to constant so you might as well just do it to start with because I have a feeling you are gonna need to to get it working. Power both to constant hot at the BCM.
Don't connect any other wires in the 10 pin.
Also, I have had the key wrap work poorly on these cars. I instead use an INSET with a relay to eliminate the guess work on the wrap.
In all this is a pretty easy car to do. I use the Hazard negative to get around the parking light issue....
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 15, 2015 at 4:46 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tedmond
pieces of cake car to do. The idatalink or fortin work well. You wont need tho power the large gauge constants. Just pin a female spade for ignition in.
If you flash it DBI it should work, but then again I'm a compustar guy, and never have issued in data.
Parking lights you can get it at the BCM as well. White (-) Grey plug
As far as the key wrap goes, if you follow the guide exactly as it says you shouldnt have a problem. Worst case, take the key apart and make a loop right over the rfid chip.
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
jsigna 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2014
Posted: February 15, 2015 at 5:42 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jsigna
sparkie wrote:
Follow the install guide exactly like it is shown. The ignition wires for both the bypass and remote starter are inputs to the 2 modules. They allow the units to know when the ignition is ON. DO NOT connect any other wires other than those shown with the exception of the parking lights. You can eliminate the diode if you only connect the remote starter's pink wire in the 10 pin connector. The only wire you need in the 10 pin plug is the pink. You don't need any of the other wires in the 10 pin plug. The parking lights are positive and use 3 separate circuits which must be isolated (usually through relays).
Thanks for the information!
Question on this.. "You can eliminate the diode if you only connect the remote starter's pink wire in the 10 pin connector. The only wire you need in the 10 pin plug is the pink. You don't need any of the other wires in the 10 pin plug."
I was assuming you had to use the pink heavy gauge #10 to the OBDII Ignition wire. Then tap the Pink ignition wire from the Bypass Module into the connection with a diode.
Was I wrong about this? Were they assuming I would not use the Pink heavy gauge? I ask this because of your advice above where you say you can skip the diode if you ONLY connect the RS Pink to OBDII. How could I not hookup the Pink Ignition wire from the Bypass Module?
Clarification on my confusion with that would be EXTREMELY Helpful! Thank you so much!
jsigna 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2014
Posted: February 15, 2015 at 5:51 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jsigna
Mike M2 wrote:
Couple things, DEI products tend to work poorly in data modes with Idatalink so you may consider hard wiring it.
If you do, you will need to power up #2 along with #5 to constant so you might as well just do it to start with because I have a feeling you are gonna need to to get it working. Power both to constant hot at the BCM.
Don't connect any other wires in the 10 pin.
Also, I have had the key wrap work poorly on these cars. I instead use an INSET with a relay to eliminate the guess work on the wrap.
In all this is a pretty easy car to do. I use the Hazard negative to get around the parking light issue....
I was hoping somebody would't say that (about iDataLink & DEI D2D). I will try it in D2D and use your advice with powering up #2 & #5 from heavy gauge harness to power up the Starter and Ignition wires manually.
The next thing I would like to find out more on is this.. "Also, I have had the key wrap work poorly on these cars. I instead use an INSET with a relay to eliminate the guess work on the wrap"
I must admit I haven't researched on this yet.. but I want to find out more on using an INSET with a relay to eliminate the guess work on the wire wrap.
And finally, "I use the Hazard negative to get around the parking light issue." If I do it via this method will the parking lights have the normal option of constant/flash? He doesn't want the Parking lights to flash so that is why I ask.
Thank you so much!
jsigna 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2014
Posted: February 15, 2015 at 5:59 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jsigna
tedmond wrote:
pieces of cake car to do. The idatalink or fortin work well. You wont need tho power the large gauge constants. Just pin a female spade for ignition in.
If you flash it DBI it should work, but then again I'm a compustar guy, and never have issued in data.
Parking lights you can get it at the BCM as well. White (-) Grey plug
As far as the key wrap goes, if you follow the guide exactly as it says you shouldnt have a problem. Worst case, take the key apart and make a loop right over the rfid chip.
I am hoping the DBI works.. If not, no real loss but time to hard wire I suppose.
"Just pin a female spade for ignition in." This is the connection from the RS Pink Wire to the OBDII connection (Ignition). I was planning on doing a T-Tap on the OBDII Ignition wire to a Male Spade connector to attach to the RS Pink Female Spade connector. I will then tap into the thinner OBDII wire to tap in the Bypass Module with the Diode. (This is all assuming the OBDII Ignition wire is thin gauge so that a Wire Tap works. If not I will wire the RS wire right into the OBDII wire with the Bypass Module tapped into that same junction with a diode in line.)
I will look into the BCM Grey Connector wire for the Parking lights (-) wire. Thank you for that as it will save me a lot of time.
Also interesting with the taking apart the key to get directly to the RFID chip. I will look into that as well. I want to see what the above guys method of the INSET method is all about.
Thanks to all you guys!
tedmond 
Gold - Posts: 4,610
Gold spaceThis member has been recognized as an authority in Mobile Security and Convenience. Click here for more info.spacespace
Joined: January 06, 2007
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posted: February 15, 2015 at 6:43 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote tedmond
No T-Taps!
Splice into your wires and follow a military splice aka poke and twist.
The parking light at the BCM is NOT listed on any wiring diagram, besides Fortins wirecolor. I have done numberous key wraps on the new 128bit keys, and when followed as per the guide, its perfect.
I'll post the fortin wirecolour guide for your car in downloads later tonight.
Btw I've used DBI on the newer viper and yet to have a major problem. Worst case ive had is no detection of brake or tach (sometimes ebrake) through DBI
Ted
2nd Year Tier 1 Medical School
Still installing as a hobby...pays for groceries
Compustar Expert
jsigna 
Copper - Posts: 151
Copper spacespace
Joined: July 25, 2014
Posted: February 15, 2015 at 8:11 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote jsigna
tedmond wrote:
No T-Taps!
Splice into your wires and follow a military splice aka poke and twist.
The parking light at the BCM is NOT listed on any wiring diagram, besides Fortins wirecolor. I have done numberous key wraps on the new 128bit keys, and when followed as per the guide, its perfect.
I'll post the fortin wirecolour guide for your car in downloads later tonight.
Btw I've used DBI on the newer viper and yet to have a major problem. Worst case ive had is no detection of brake or tach (sometimes ebrake) through DBI
I always to the poke method for heavy gauge. For thin gauge, no t tap?
Brake or tach is no big deal.   To be honest I always use virtual tach and never had an issue yet.
Thanks again!
sparkie 
Platinum - Posts: 2,061
Platinum spacespace
Joined: November 06, 2003
Location: Canada
Posted: February 15, 2015 at 8:16 PM / IP Logged Link to Post Post Reply Quote sparkie
The ignition wires from the bypass and the remote starter are inputs to the modules. The remote starter should not put 12 volts out to the wire at the OBD plug. This is what the diode is for. It blocks the remote starter from putting out 12 volts onto the wire at the OBD connector. If you don't use the red wires in the 10 pin plug, then the remote starter can't put out 12 volts. It can only sense ignition. This is only true for units like DEI that have a dedicated 12 volt input for the ignition relay. If you don't understand this, then connect the wires as shown in the diagram. I have done few 2015 Rogues using DEI and ADSALCA modules. Program the bypass for DBI and it should work fine.
sparky
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